jackcramerr

It has bells and whistles and it didn't seem that bad. 45000 miles. Had full lexus service history and I said how can that go wrong. I cannot see any issue with driving. Bounce test isn't proving it to fail.

hmm.... You guys have much more experience and probably some of you might be a mechanic. So I will accept your views. Mine was just an opinion. The only little experience I have is I studied oil refining and motor oil manufacturing little. No nothing about engines. Moving on. I greased the front calipers. they were OK. Not enough grease in them. Thanks for pointing them out. But I noticed the front left shock absorber had slight oil on it. In my experience when a shock has anything on it ... it's already done. I am guessing if I take out the shock and press it, it won't go back up. but it will have resistance to shock and won't be free moving. Am I right to say this? How involved is replacing shock absorber and would you guys do it ? I guess if one is doing it one has to get the end links, the upper shock bearing (forgot what it is called... the thing that absorbs steering shocks), ... they need be done. What else is there ? Or should I ignore it till lexus catches it ? It won't be caught by mot. This is going to be a lot of work and a lot of money. Also brake flush. Don't see lexus has done it. Do you guys do it? Noticed my rims are flaking. I am very upset about it. What are my options and how can u prevent it spreading ? Tyre rotation. Do you guys do that ?

oh and my service manual also says 5w30. I don't know where we picked up 0w20 from. It doesn't mention intervals. But if Lexus premium services is 10,000 then I am not changing till 10,000 or 1 year. I am guessing they know what they are doing...

Checked with Lexus Glasgow. 5w30 Full sync change after 1 year or 10,000 miles. 5000 miles is for US and dusty areas not clean rainy Europe. 3000 miles is OTT and the guy laughed when I said that. Each to their own I guess.

also at 4000 it is normal to have golden oil. unless engine is broke. not saying it must be golden. I am saying it is not surprising. 6000 it should have black tinge. Mazda I have says oil change interval 10,000 miles. 5w30 A5. And it's *cough cough* Mazda.

I am looking at car history and lexus have changed oil based on every 10,000 and used 5w30. I will call lexus and confirm just for the heck of it. I personally think 3000 for oil change is doing bad to the environment and pocket. 1 year interval oil should be changed just because the oil additives wear out or oil absorbs water. .. I know nothing happens to Base oil.

Wait what..madasahatter... you are replacing a synthetic oil after every 3000 miles... why. ? I thought synthetic oil are rated for 10,000 miles. johnatg, What about oil grade? 5w30 is rating. Then you go for A1 A5 or something ?

OK will try to do it. I wonder if this is lexus specific issue because I have never heard doing such type of maintanance on a service schedule... Is there a list of service and maintanance I have to follow for lexus?

thanks toffee. The guy asks in second page about location. To answer that is it a ye's then ? Jack goes on the differential box ? I will need to use a piece of wood for that since it is not even surface. has sort of fins like heat sink. I think that's where differential oil is at... Just behind this is a cross member. Need all this for future work. I got the caliper on and did a bleed on this one side only. brakes seem good. I wonder if I really need to do a complete bleed if I don't see an issue. Also this caliper issue. Is it a weakness on the front as well? Do I need to grease them ? Have to check service history of when last lexis checked them but generally how often should one check them?

caliper is done and on the car now. Just wanted to confirm the jacking point for the middle of the car so I can support it better since I will be bleeding it. Can't take it to a garage in this condition lol. Worst come I can do bleeding with only one jack under the car and a tyre.

guys were is the rear jacking point... I am confused.

BTW putting back the dust boot on was a big pain. I had ordered the kit from brake parts. Co .UK . The dust boot for the lower pin is wrong so I am going to use the old one. It might have swelled due to wd40 but I don't have a choice. Not replacing the upper pin dust boot since the oem looks better quality. Not replacing the piston ring for that matter. Only thing replaced will be the dust boot for piston . It was a pain getting it on and none of the Internet method worked for me. ironically I asked someone non technical with arts skill for suggestion and that person found a new method and did it in 2 min's. No special tools just a hair clip. Painting the caliper was also a waste of time since one can't properly clean it unless sand blast it and I didn't sand blast it. this resulted in paint coming off. Also UK weather doesn't permit drying of any kind of paint. I haven't installed the caliper yet.

I cleaned all the parts and polished the pin with mirror finish and the chamber. Looking at it all I am wondering if I can get away with using this caliper. I removed the piston as well to see if there is any rust. it looks in good condition. I will replace the dust seal and am wondering if I should replace the oil seal... because the kits I can buy online ... I wonder if they are as good as the original ring seal that is inside. the original one looks good. no sign of leaks. I will be replacing the dust seal since I poked a hole in it my mistake. anything I should be concerned about ? I have painted the caliper as well... nothing better to do on Sunday so did all this .

She won't forget it.

here is the video that will explain what I meant by pin not rotating and bracket moving. here I should impact marks with my finger. suggest how bad they are please. Would it help if I soak it over few days in some oil (please suggest one ). I want to teach this b@itch a lesson.

few hours of beating. freezing it and then hot air gun. still nothing. 4lb hammer. I don't think it can be ever opened. hammering eventually left marks due to benchwise. So not keeping this assembly any more. Now I am hoping if I can get a caliper with the bracket. I will call lexus on Monday. Car is sitting without brakes. I submerged the brake line in DOT5.1 oil bottle I had. It will survive rain I think. Also called kwikfit for advise and they said get a new assembly as they had hard time removing the bracket and weren't successful. No local garage is open on a Saturday. I will post pictures of the beaten up caliper in a while to mock it cause it sure made fun of my efforts.

oh and sad news for me is that pin is not moving. it's the bracket that is moving. When I purchase a new caliper does it come with pin rubber boot and bracket ? I don't think it's possible for bracket to come out without damage-

lower pin has no head

haven't given up yet toffee. Just waiting for the rain to halt then I resume and re evaluate. Hoping fresh mind will come with better ideas.

thanks guys. Patience is what I have to learn. your advise of patience speaks of experience and is encouraging. I had to hit it hard a few times since a small hammer and wood block wasn't doing anything. keep doing this for 30 minutes till I gave up and bought a big hammer. It was as if it is welded. I will use WD40 tomorrow and resume the work. will report live. The lower pin is like a stud but with no threads. see the picture of the rear passage side. it just slides out without any effort. I couldn't see hex head but I will take your word for it . I don't have to do anything with this bolt I. e. unscrew it for my purpose right ? Yes I am avoiding heating it. I have a heavy duty heat gun but no blow tourch.

thanks. It's a job for tomorrow. I think I need a penetrative oil... any recommendation? The lower pin does not screw in. It does not have a head as well. It is not part of the caliper assembly I think. I opened the other side very easily and it slid out leaving the lower pin in place. only had to remove the upper pin which was a size 19 and screwed in. I have freezer spray. So I spray it on the caliper assembly where the lower pin is ? I will be surprised if it works. .. I thought heat works... I hammered it a little and now it pivots but not a fully. And still I can't get it out so tomorrow I will hammer it from the side such that blow is towards the car. Rubbish neighbours don't let me finish the job and complain... new car has caught eyes of people. I will take the car to work and do it in parking space there.

yes

guys need advise live. Driver side rear brake caliper does not pivot out. the rear pin is stuck. rear pin has no head so can't move it. what are the options ? Asked someone to get me a bigger hammer and waiting for it now. what else can I do ? thanks.

a recall for brake callipers, it only affected 2005 and 2006 vehicles. that's what lexus Edinburgh told me and said they won't do mine. 2009.

Due to under inflation right ?