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Mihanicos

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  1. Another attempt to upload the file. Chris. Scan0004.pdf
  2. I attach the diagram from lexus repair manual. My rear brakes are like yours. Sorry for the confusion about a second spring. hope this will help you. Chris. Scan0004.pdf
  3. The pins themselves have small holes through which the spring end goes through. Rotate the pin until the hole is visible, it is about the same diameter as the spring. The spring in question has to be facing the opposite side so the pads as they wear, move away from the pin holes so the spring does not prevent them from moving towards the rotor. The thin end of the pin, fit the spring so that the pin cannot come out of the caliper the same principle as described above. This spring prevents the pin from sliding out of the caliper. Chris.
  4. The spring in question its ends go into the pins behind the pad so as the pads wear, they move away from the spring ends fitted in the holes of the pins. The centre part of the spring goes into the brake pad. First fit the ends of the spring into the pins, then turn the centre of the pin and drive it into the centre hole of the pad. Make sure that as the pads wear, they move away from the spring thus not inhibiting their movement towards the rotor. Chris.
  5. Check the timing marks of the engine. If they align exactly against their reference marks, then your timing chain is ok. The quality and the frequency of the engine oil change influences to a geat extend the wear of all parts. Chris.
  6. The brake pads fitted on the side facing the underside of the car have a pin facing the rotor. When the pads reach their wear limit, the pin is rubbing against the rotor so you know it is time to change the brake pads. Remove the wheel and the brake pads to inspect them. Chris.
  7. Vibrations and noises are transmitted through the body of the car. Like another member already mentioned, I would check all engine and transaxle mounts, use a small crowbar to lever the rubbermounts and suspension bushings. Also all rubber propeller shaft couplings transaxle and final drive. Change the transaxle fluid and the filter. The owner's manual may state that the gearbox is sealed for life but if you look at the car's Toyota repair manual you will find when you should change the oil and the filter. On some models, if my memory serves me right, an oil change is recommended after about six years or 60 000 miles, whichever comes first. Chris.
  8. The key to all laser and computer aided geometry and tracking adjustment equipment is their calibration. Otherwise, the error of the equipment will be included in the adjustment. Also, the equipment fitted on the wheels must be set to be perfectly vertical and horizontal before measurements begin. There is non electronic tracking and alighnment equipment that use absolute methods of measurement and their factory calibration never changes. When tracking is done with this equipment, the car holds the road and obeys to the slightest movement of the steering. A professional always looks at the condition of the tires and takes into account their position on the car and uses the factory margins to set their alighnment. On some lexus models, if my memory serves me right, the camber cannot be adjusted. The suspension members influencing the camber must be replaced. Chris
  9. It sounds like the valve clearances need adjusting. Is the engine oil to the manufacturer's specifications? Chris.
  10. Hi, Make sure that the 12v battery is in a good state of charge and that the voltage does not fall below 11v. Measure the voltage when the car fails to start and you get unrelated electrical faults and codes. I had a similar case with a Lexus and the symptoms point to the Top Dead Centre position sensor. Look at the freeze frame data to verify the events prior to the display of the code. Another item to look at are the oil filters feeding the intake camshafts with oil in order to vary their timing with respect to the crankshaft position. Sometimes they get clocked up and the variable timing feature of the engine is impeded. Make sure you use the right viscosity engine oil, although it would have to be a very different oil viscosity to cause a DTC display. Chris.
  11. This may be caused by the disc brakes having an excessive clearance within the calipers. The other possibility is a weak spring. Chris.
  12. The only way to be sure of the flywheel condition is to look at it. Normally it will last a very long time, unless the brass pins that hold the friction material on the clutch disc contact the flywheel. If your clutch is slipping for a short time, the pins may have not contacted the flywheel yet. And even then, the pins wear much faster than the flywheel so they do not cause any damage. For the old Mercedes W123 diesel model the clutch would last about 400 000 miles. The flywheel had no wear. You can also resurface the flywheel, there are limits which you will find in the repair manual. From what you ate saying, I would say that your flywheel is ok. Chris.
  13. If you are going to spray the alloy wheels, remember to apply etch primer on bare aluminium. Then you can use normal acrylic primer on top and on the rest of the wheel. Chris.
  14. I would do a scan to reviel any codes that are pending or they are not displayed on the instrument panel. It may be a throtle position circuit issue, propably the connectors need cleaning. If you have a direct injection engine you may need to do intake valve cleaning. There are various intake manifold spays that work and improve economy as well. I use Tunap once a year during the annual service. Fuel injector is also recommended every annual service, simply add to the fuel the cleaner. Spark plugs may need a check or replacement. Chris
  15. Sounds and noises are difficult to locate. Try using a " stethoscope " . If it is a mechanical cause producing the noise it should get worse and more intense with time. Replace parts when you are sure. Do a diagnostic scan in case some DTCs do not cause any trouble codes to be registered. Always question the dealer's verdict.
  16. Hi John, I am very happy that you will be able to finish your project with my very small contribution. My knowledge is very limited and is nothing compared to yours. I always learn from your posts and from other learned members. Kindest regards Chris.
  17. Hi John, Attached here is the location of the connector BA2 . kindest regards, Chris EngineR-WG.pdf
  18. Hi John, I managed to find a way to get the information here. I had to print and then scan to my laptop. Here below there are two pdf files, one for BA2 and another for LA2 connector locations. If I can be of any further help, just say the word. Chris Scan0001.pdf Scan0002.pdf
  19. What is missing from the last posts is the diagram of the connectors, one for lhd and another for rhd. The png file are the connectors. I will make another attempt tomorrow. Chris.
  20. Name Instrument Panel Wire and Engine Room Main Wire (Left Kick Panel) Code LA2 Part Number 90980-12501/90980-12514 Color White Spec Location Wire and Wire in Instrument Panel (LHD) Wire and Wire in Instrument Panel (RHD) I hope this helps. Chris.
  21. Name Engine Room No.2 Wire and Engine Room Main Wire (Inside of the Engine Room R/B No.1 and Engine Room J/B No.1) Code BA2 Part Number 90980-11915/90980-11926 Color Gray Spec Location Wire and Wire in Engine Compartment (LHD) Wire and Wire in Engine Compartment (RHD)
  22. Hi John, I apologise for my incompedence. The files I tried to upload showed the connectors with all their pins. As far as their location is what I posted. It also gave the connector part number and a list of all the circuits used by these connectors.
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