mooranger

There is no bulb in there - it's a kind of flat plate that glows. It could be a lse connection - the whole plastic sill (internal) comes off if you get your fingers underneath and pull - then you will see the connector. Try unplugging it and re-connecting to see if that works. Otherwise you probably need to het a new plastic piece as it's all 1 assembly.

Glad it worked, I was beginning to doubt my own instructions! All we need to work out now is how to get it to auto lock the doors when the ignition is turned on. Plenty of people said it couldn't be done on my previous Rav4, but it could, so let's hope the RX can be tweaked too!

There has been quite a bit of discussion (and threads) on this before, with some people disabling the seatbelt warning successfully, others not. I managed it with my previous Rav 4 and IS200, so was fairly sure it could be done on other models. After a couple of unsuccessful attempts yesterday, it worked on my 2004 RX300 SE-L as follows: Sit in car, close door, turn IGN to ON (the last position before starting the engine, but no need to actually start engine) and set Odometer to full mileage reading (ie not trip A or B) Turn off, remove key Re-insert key, turn back to ON (as above) Press and hold ODO button for 30 seconds (may be OK with less, but 30 worked for me) whilst still pressing ODO button, clip in seatbelt b_on or b-off appears in ODO display take finger off ODO button, and press again to change between b_on (bleeper on) and b_off (bleeper off) unclip belt and turn off ignition to set I just tried it again as above, and it definitely works. I'm not suggesting you can now drive without a seatbelt on, but it stops the damn thing bleeping in a car park or wherever else you may prefer not to have the belt clipped in.

Is there a mileage limit to the traction battery warranty? They would surely be a few thousand to replace, but the rest of the vehicle is pretty much the same as an non hybrid RX - and will go on for many more miles. With 100K in that amount of time I think ti's mostly motorway, so very little battery/motor running anyway.

I had a set of 4 SP9000s fitted 4K ago, and noticed last week that the outside edges were worn excessively in a 'sawtooth' pattern indicating incorrect toe in. When I first purchased the car at Easter, the tyres fitted at the time were badly worn on the insides so I got Lexus Plymouth to do a 4 wheel align, and they gave me the print out to shown the new settings. Last week, after noticing the wear on the new set I took the IS to ATS in Ivybridge and they said the tracking was miles out (+3 and -4 or some thing) so the started adjusting things, and relieved me of 30 quid for their 'efforts'. The next day when driving on a long straight road I noticed the steering wheel was about 30 degrees off centre when going in a straight line, so I took it to Guppa P which are a good tyre specialist in Plymouth. They then showed me their results, with the front toe settings at -4 for the left and + 2.5 for the right. The backs were also out at 1.9 for the left and 0.9 for the right (ATS hadn't altered these). The drive feels better now Guppa P have had a go, and their machine looks far more sophisticated than the one at ATS, but I'm not sure who to trust. Lexus adjust it and the opposite side of the tyre starts to wear, ATS have a go and totally f :tsktsk: k it up, and the specialists at Guppa P look like they have done a good job but I can only really tell if my expensive rubber starts to shred again in another couple of thousand miles (or not). Hoping to get a IS300 Nav but if the tyres need changing this often I'll never have the dosh!

Found the dipstick for the auto box on my IS200 yesterday (at the back of the engine bay just behind the air filter cover - orange) and when I checked it the fluid level was well above the max level for hot, even though the car was cold. The level for cold is much lower, so looks like it's overfilled. Was serviced by Lexus recently but not sure if they checked it. Drives OK - but I'm concerned that the box could get damaged with too much fluid in it. Anyone help? Thanks

Does the IS300 exhaust rear section fit onto an IS200 OK?

Managed to replace the fronts with little difficulty - couldn't get the new ones in at first, but then disconnected the anti-roll bar which allows the hub to drop much further and they went in easy. Of course the nuts connecting the roll bar were rusted to :tsktsk: so lots of WD and swearing! No more knocking now anyway - the old offside shock seems to have an air lock in, by the sound of it when compressing off the car. Also, it returns to full extension from compressed at half the speed of the new ones, so reckon it was nakkad!

There was a thread about window tints recently - couldn't find it again so started this new one. Just got hold of the Vehicle & Operator Services Agency leaflet that the Police use as guidance and it says: Vehicles first used after 1 April 1985, the light transmitted through the windscreen must be at least 75%. The front windows must be at least 70%. In other words max 25% tint on the windscreen, 30% on the front windows. The windows are not tested during MOT though, as it was considered too expensive to issue test equipment tot all the centres. This leaflet was printed in Mar 04 so is the latest info. Hope this helps :D

I'm after a low milage pair of front shocks for an SE - does anyone have a pair in good nick at reasonable cost? (maybe removed for a suspension upgrade?) Don't need the springs necessarily, but this would save me trying to remove them from the existing shocks. Many thanks ;)

Is knocking when on uneve ground or when on the flat as well? My brakes used to creak (sounded like knocking) when I applied them, and I found the disk had a bit of rust behind it so was not flat against the hub when the wheel was back on. Another cause could be worn caliper slides, which is why Lexus just changed my calipers. My knocking is still there though so I now suspect one of the front shocks, even though the handling sees OK now. Could be ball joint wear as well - as you see it's worth getting the local Lexus dealer on the case!

But if I'm replacing the shocks I assume I need to remove the spring? Or am I being a bit thick! Thanks

Thanks for that Brettster. So I don't need to undo or loosen the centre nut at the top? Does the spring come out with the damper?

I found a how to replace springs & shocks on this site not long ago, but can't find it now. It came with pics etc - anyone point me in the right direction. How big a job is it to replace the front shocks? Any specialist tools needed (spring compressors?) Thanks

Had mine about 2 months now - first tank gave 365 miles (careful driving). Now get about 320 at most as I probably drive it a bit harder. To top it off, now costs 50 quid to fill it up from empty. That's 16p a mile just for fuel, but heh, everyone looks around at it and I love it. PS - Going in for new calipers and disks tomorrow under guarantee so getting money's worth from Lexus!

Can anyone post a close up pic of the clear side repeater please? Are they from the LS430? If so will order a pair from local dealer on Monday. Thanks in advance

Spoke to a 'contact' in the local force this morning and he says they don't care about it down here. Would imagine most forces are the same - why pull over a well maintained IS when there are loads of shagged Novas to nick instead?

Took mine to Lexus Plymouth and they put GTX Magnatec in. I don't think all dealers use cheap rubbish - speak to the service department beforehand to let them know what you want putting in.

Now that's made me think - I have never got more than 360 out of a full tank. Last weekend, after running it for 10 miles after the fuel light came on it just managed to squeeze 50 quids worth in. I live in Devon - is the fuel really that much more down here than up North. If so I'm on my way! :duh: I drive a combination of motorway and town each day, and drive it pretty carefully. I just wind the window down when I think about the consumption, and listen to the purring 6 cyliner!

Q: Did you hear about the blonde rabbit? A: Got stuck in a trap, chewed off three legs and was still stuck.

I said seatbelts, not carkeys! Doh :zee:

I agree with you - suspension kncking can be a real pain as you only really experience it by driving for miles on all road types. The dealer rarely understands the problems just be taking it for a short spin. As far as the clunking from the brakes goes, I think this is caused by the disk rotating slightly on the hub when you go from forward to reverse, and can sometimes be sorted by toghtening the wheel nuts. Sounds odd, but the wheel holds the disk tight against the hub. I'm just about to have the disks and calipers swapped to try to sort the knocking, but doubt whether it will. Just one more thing to try. Godd luck in getting yours sorted, and let me know if you get any joy!

Nice to see you chose the best colour and tyres! I was looking for a picture of the seatbelts but couldn't see one. Any chance?

I'm not having much luck with my local Lexus dealer - trying to get them to identify where a slight knocking is coming from (front offside area) but they haven't yet identified it. Any ideas what I should suggest they change? I've seen some discussion on sway bar bushes - is this a good starting point? The car has done 77k - I can't be the only one to have this problem :duh: . All suspension is standard set up. Could it be the strut or is this unlikely? Ta for any help :D

I'll try to take a picture tonight when it's darker. They look great - a blue/white intense light from the 6 led version.