C Andrew Green

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About C Andrew Green

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  1. Amazingly it looks like they're waiving any admin fee....., From the eMail.....
  2. @cosmarchy Not a lot at the moment looking at their website....................... Andrew
  3. I've bought refills in the past and in my experience they're never quite the same as complete new blades, I guess it's due to wear in the blades moving parts from use and road dirt..... Andrew
  4. @cosmarchy Try this Link then. Euros are currently doing a 50% off promo £17.73 for both with promo code 'EGG80'........ Andrew
  5. Hi @cosmarchy How about: Complete 20" Denso Hybrid Complete 22" Denso Hybrid These are the OEM parts from EuroCar Parts via eBay, but check on EuroCar Parts main website first as they often have a 50% off 'introductory offer'. P.S. Ignore the slightly strange descriptions on the eBay listings. Andrew
  6. @finchy40 on an IS250 it's called a 'Front Bumper Extension Mounting Bracket'
  7. @Mr.Flo No idea about what's on Amazon, mine came from eBay, however I've previously seen this one recomended as it says it works on 64 bit Windows. They all claim to work on 64 bit Windows but I had to reinstall 32 bit Windows on a spare laptop to make mine work.... Andrew
  8. Hi, My brother had this happen a few times to his 2006 IS250 parked at home (keys not in pocket) and also when parked at work. 2nd Gen IS250's have the same long press unlock to open all windows active by default, disabled the option with Techstream and it hasn't done it since! Still doesn't explain why it does it though....... Andrew
  9. @Zuke The first time you drive one the very non-linear throttle response in normal mode might lead you to that conclusion. There's a switch to the left of the steering column to select 'ECT/PWR' mode which appears to remove some of the throttle non-linearity. Mine lives in 'ECT/PWR' mode permanently, well unless it snows when it's other position of the switch 'Snow' which is a low torque mode. Wait until it's warmed up properly and let it have some revs and it's quite quick enough. Andrew
  10. Hi Scott, Just had a look on PartSouq a US parts listing and it appears to be '7772053010 VALVE ASSY, FUEL TANK SOLENOID RETURN': Another site gives: '77720E 77720-53010 01 11.2005 VALVE ASSY, FUEL TANK SOLENOID RETURN ALE20' with '77720-53010' as the OEM part number. Hope these help......... Andrew
  11. Hi Scott, Not an IS220 owner (IS250) but the pic confused me I was trying to reconcile it with views of the engine! Then I realised from looking at the manual that the convoluted rubber thing in the foreground is actually a rear axle joint boot! According to the manual the part with three pipes is the 'Fuel route switching valve' I can't find any reference to it in the 'Parts location' section only the attached reference to removing it. I'll have a further peruse and update if I do find anything. Andrew
  12. I got fed up with constantly checking and correcting the tyre pressures due to what I thought were leaky rims so I bought a set of these (see pic). I didn't particularly like the external ones so went for the internal fit type. When I went to my regular tyre place Merittyre, Purley, Berks. It turns out that the rims were fine but the leaking was due to corrosion where the valves seat! Cleaned them out and assembled the included metal valve bodies to the rims with a generous helping of silicone O ring grease, tyres refitted and inflated to 35/38 (with nitrogen I think) and now get a continuous display of tyre pressures, which I haven't had to touch since they were fitted in April. Picture was taken just after arriving home so all the temps are up and pressures are ~4psi higher due to driving, cold in the morning they're still dead on 35/38. I have another set of these in my 16" winter tyres & wheels too. These are relstively cheap due to not having replaceable batteries but allegedly have a battery life of ~5 years, they don't transmit when they've been stationary for a while and wake up on moving a few feet. Andrew
  13. I posted a clip from the service manual in (I think) post # 17 and a description a couple of posts later, but basically just use a thin blade like a penknife blade in the rear edge of the flush panel (which is toward the front of the dome light assembly) which hinges down and inside there are two screws to remove and then two trim clips at the rearmost corners. Ideally removed with a forked trim clip tool but easily unpopped with fingers. Simply ease it down and undo the multi plug. Andrew
  14. Not mine, borrowed the pic from FaceBook..............Thought it was a brit but just realised that it's a LHD.
  15. @Alfalfa Today's update: After some more perusing of the wiring schematic I pulled my dome light assembly apart (pic). There is a lot of copper covering tracks so it's a bit difficult to follow the circuits. I then checked the 'R5' connector and the lines shown (in the second pic) are ignition switched (not 'accesory' switched like the cigarette lighter socket. White/Black trace = Ground Green = +Ignition. I haven't yet found anywhere useful that they appear on the dome light PCB and it seems somewhat crude (OCD prevents it!) to just solder wires to the back of the connector! Really need some suitable crimps for the housing as both Ignition and ground are looped out on adjacent pins. Will update further when I decide what to do next. Andrew