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Is that true for the gearbox in the Harrier as well? Asking because mine is a Harrier and I know it has a different transmission from the V6s. If you can point me to any data for this I'd be very interested to see it.

Indeed they did, but hey I'll take a few less mpg if I don't have to ever replace a hybrid battery pack :P

@Clive-D sounds like good news. Lets hope that the MAF failing was the only problem and that it wasn't something else, like say a bad earth, that caused the MAF to burn out and die. Regarding the light, you may be able to clear the error with techstream if you have it, or it may be that the computer runs a specific test only under certain conditions. For example the test that relates to the EVAP emissions system will only run when the fuel tank is above 1/4 and below 3/4 of fuel, and possibly also only when the engine is run up to temperature for enough time. I've no idea if there are similar tests for MAF-related issues, most likely it's just a persistent error code that needs to be reset manually with a scan tool like techstream.

Halfords will test the battery for free.

http://www.toyotec.co.uk/services.html These guys did my gearbox fluid change when I first got my car, they seemed to know what they were doing. I think there are a few toyota specialists in surrey.

Actually you could email the guy from that podcast Louis Altazan, he knows Toyota/Lexus very well and might be able to tell you what’s likely wrong with it and whether it’s safe to drive. go to agcoauto.com and fill in the contact page, he’ll get back to you usually within an hour and answers email about any car problems for free.

Btw you might like the podcast “the automotive hour”. Those guys run a garage in Baton Rouge and they’re constantly telling stories of people who’ve come into the shop having spent hundreds of dollars on parts, often in response to error codes, without fixing their problem only to be told it was something silly like a broken wire 🙂 I’ve learnt a lot about cars listening to them.

I haven’t a clue sorry. Maybe someone else can answer that.

A toyota specialist should shouldn’t they?

Get an indy to diagnose it, you could end up replacing a perfectly good OEM MAF sensor with a dodgy aftermarket one and just cause even more problems in addition to the one you have. It sounds like a clear problem so i can’t see it costing more than an hours labour to diagnose.

I'm due brakes soon too actually, I get a nice shaking steering wheel when braking from high speed. Guessing that's the fronts rather than the rears.

I'd be very hesitant to use anything but OEM brake components. Just my $0.02, I'm sure lots of people do and have no issues but the OEM components are designed specifically for the car with the right pad material, friction coefficient etc, and probably last longer than some of the aftermarket ones. Sometimes the cheapest way out is the most expensive way in :)

@Clive-D It's important to bear in mind that ECU error codes are not direct indicators of an actual specific fault, they are simply the result of a particular error condition occurring which could have many possible causes, sometimes hundreds or even thousands of potential causes. Many people fall into the trap of seeing an "O2 sensor code" (or whatever) and just assume that it's a nice logical simple system and they can simply replace the sensor to correct the issue. There's some good advice in this thread re cleaning the MAF etc, but if those avenues don't work out don't start throwing parts at it without getting a definitive diagnosis from a garage that knows what they're doing because you'll run out of money before you run out of guesses :)

Ya'll aren't doing too bad. I got a Harrier because the dealer said the small engine was more economical. Averaging about 19-20mpg but I drive fast.

I have a 2006 harrier with the moon roof and no roof rails. Can I buy the roof rail parts from lexus and just bolt them on?

Oh my bad, wrong speed rating! doh

Of the choices on tyreleader for that size I'd probably go with the Michelins, 169 each plus fitting. https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/michelin/latitude-tour-hp/235-55-r20-102h-819255

Does it need any servicing? You could maybe book it in for a service at the 3-week midpoint with a garage that has a collection and drop off service, many do these days. If you can find one a few miles away that will do this it'll probably be a lot better for the car than letting it tick over on your driveway.

Maybe your car is different to mine but I've never had a problem driving at night with eurolites on the car.

Why would you want to make adjustments to your headlight units when you can just put eurolite stickers on them for less than 4 quid? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Travelspot-Eurolites-N92160-Headlamp-Adaptors/dp/B001P5SPJW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1534592473&sr=8-1&keywords=eurolites We go to france every year driving from Calais to Brittany and I've never had a problem with them.

+1 for the goodyear 4season gen2's, they are very good. quietest tyre you can get apparently.

I just popped a rear door card off to check the size of the speakers and had a strange issue when I put it back on. There are two bowden cables in the door, one for the handles which is all fine and another for the interior lock switch. When I put the door card back on I noticed the lock switch was stuck in the locked position. I took the card off again to have a look and it seems that the bowden cable is in the right place but there is so much tension on it that the switch can't move. I'm pretty sure it's on right as there's no other way it can go on and still be held in place. Strangely, despite the switch being stuck in the locked position, if I use the central locking with it in that stuck position the door stays unlocked. For now I disconnected the bowden cable internally, which allows the central locking to work. But I'm really baffled as to what's happened here, the only thing I can think of is that something must have slipped at the other end of the bowden cable. Any ideas? Thanks!

Ok so I've had a proper look in the car. It seems there are 6.5" mid bass speakers in the doors and 3.5" speakers in the dash. Nothing else. Where the pillar tweeters might be in a real RX there are just blank inserts. So it seems my options are to either replace the 3.5" speakers and hope that cleans up the treble or go all out and fit 6.5" components, which I guess would involve running wires and making some kind of insert to hold the tweeter in the pillar. Might nip down to BCSS during the week and see what they think.

It looks like there are two variants for the fronts: http://japan.toylexparts.com/harrier/521120/acu30w-awpgk/350w/001/4/8602/861889b http://japan.toylexparts.com/harrier/521120/acu30w-awpgk/350w/001/4/8602/861890a Not sure which of these applies to me however both of them seem to include 3.5" drivers in the door trim. That's a pain because there aren't many speakers that fit there. Also means I probably can't use many off the shelf component sets because they tend to have tiny tweeters.

Ok so looking at this: http://japan.toylexparts.com/harrier/521120/acu30w-awpgk/350w/001/4/8602/861889b It looks like there are component speakers in the front and co-axials in the rear doors. Am I reading that right?