Jayw13702

I did replace the o rings, I bought them from my local dealer, I can’t remember the part numbers but I do remember they had to order them as “they had never sold any of those before” [emoji15] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A troll Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Crikey, I replace all my filters on every service. Granted mine is a high miler and still racks it up but I would never run 40k on one air filter. The only things I do stick to are plugs (annually) and diff oil (every 8/10 months) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t think so, I think mine was just sheer bad luck, or I disturbed it last time I changed the cooler Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

there is a lock that the mechanical key fits in the boot, its on the opposite side of the boot handle to the boot button. Mine was gummed up because it had never been used DOH!! should have read the thread before replying

I did this job about 4 months ago and hoped that I wouldn't have to do it again, however over the last few weeks I have noticed that the car has been losing water, only a little bit but over a few weeks i'm putting in about 1/2 litre in order to top up. Looking over the engine I've spotted where the leak is coming from It looks like the joint between the EGR valve and the EGR cooler, however there is no water flow near this area, my first thought was either a hose but inspecting them they all seem good. Getting my hand around the EGR valve I could see the flow was coming from the EGR itself, there are two small bore water hoses and one of them was very wet. Ive no doubt you can take the EGR valve off without removing the cooler however one of the bolts that connects the cooler to the EGR is impossible to get at with a spanner, so I chose to remove the cooler and EGR. Tools you will need: 12mm, 11mm & 10mm spanner, open and ring. 12mm, 11mm, 10mm & 6mm 1/4 drive sockets along with extension bar and mini ratchet. E8 1/4 drive torx socket Long nosed pliers and mole grips Antifreeze a sheet of cardboard/old large box I have no doubt there are more effective ways of doing this, this way works for me. The EGR cooler is located at the back of the engine, held on by 2x12mm nuts, access is a little tight especially on the EGR side of the cooler. The other end isn't too bad firstly remove the engine cover the cable guide that runs across the engine is held on with 5x10mm nuts, undo these and all the electrical connections for 3 coil packs, cam sensors, fuel pump. the wiring loom is held on across the front of the engine in 3 places, disconnect the 3 plastic clips from the metal brackets. The loom should now be able to be moved to one side a little easier, it won't be possible to get it right out of the way, but it will be loose enough so it doesn't get in the way. At the same time disconnect the EGR valve electrical connector the rest of the work is now at the back of the engine. The high voltage cable are held in place by two brackets, the one on the inverter is held on with 2x10mm bolts, there are 2 grey plastic collars that connect the HV cables to the metal brackets, there is a little tab that needs to be bent back a bit to release the collar from the metal bracket. this allows the HV cables more freedom to move about. There is one more HV bracket, it is held on with 1x12mm nut and 2x12mm bolts, I couldn't get a picture of these as its too busy round the back of the engine, like the inverter bracket there are two grey collars, each one needs to be disconnected The engine wiring loom is also clipped to this bracket, you will need to get to the back of the bracket and pinch the wings of the retainer clip in order to free it from the bracket, finally removed........ once the bracket is removed and the cables moved off to one side you have a bit more access in the rear, the EGR cooler is held on with 2x12mm nuts, however the studs that locate the Cooler also needs to be removed as there isn't enough space to slide the cooler off the studs. this is a top down view, you can see the stud, this is one of two, the other is impossible to photo and removing that one means working blind. the stud can be removed using either a 6mm socket or an E8 torx if you look at the bracket on the EGR cooler you can see where the bottom bolt sits rather than undoing the 12mm nut it is easier just to remove the stud and nut in one go. either end of the EGR and cooler there are two metal pipes that are held on to the cooler/EGR with 2x12mm bolts per end, the cooler end is far easier to undo that the EGR end The cooler end, the easier end to deal with The EGR end, access is very restricted, 2x12mm bolts access is from underneath and will require a 6'' extension bar, the bolt closer to the engine can be turned one flat at a time. once the two pipes have been disconnected remove the gaskets that sit between the EGR/Cooler and the pipes, they are metal gaskets and dealer only parts. they do have clips that will hold the gaskets in place, but ive never trusted them. With the pipes disconnected all that's left is to disconnect the water pipes, there will be some antifreeze loss, I normally use plastic hose clamps to stem the loss of water, because ive been losing water I knew there wasn't going to be much loss so didn't bother. There are 4 hoses on the cooler assembly, 2 large and 2 small, the 2 smaller ones connect to the EGR, the 2 large ones connect to the cooler assembly. with them disconnected the whole unit can be jiggled out from the back of the head, I found that you have to move all the looms around a bit and tuck the pipework out of the way in order to get the unit out bit eventually it will come out. Once the old unit was off the car I would see where the issue lay, the metal pipe is an interference fit into the alloy body, this has come loose and is now leaking, luckily I have a spare EGR valve and Cooler that I had cleaned out and ready to be fitted. Now to quote the immortal Haynes manuals, refitting is the reverse of removal [emoji1787] Getting the studs back into the head can be a complete nightmare, I first put the two metal pipes on either end with the bolts done up hand tight, this holds the whole unit in place, from there I put the studs back in, connect the water hoses and then the bracket that hold the HV cables on. then its a case of going round and doing it all up tightly. connecting the HV cables to the brackets and putting the engine loom back in place. The whole job took about 4 hours, Why do it? The EGR coolers tend to gum up over time/mileage, when they do the exhaust gases struggle and tend to try and find the next weakest link in order to escape, now on the Prius and other Toyota engines this weak link is the head gasket. Mine was getting clogged at 140,000 miles, by 160/170,000 I guess it would have been completely clogged and so could have caused HG failure. And the cardboard.......you need that to put on top of the engine, whilst doing this job you are literally lying on the engine, and there are many exposed studs and nuts, the last time I did this I ended up with a bruised chest That’s the engine side of the one I used tonight

This sounds like an old Vauxhall or ford with a knackered camshaft Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just to give a little more info on where it sits.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m doing some work on the Lexus today, start it back up after doing the work to warm it up and notice this is more than a bit “clacky” Check the oil, full, everything that should be connected is, Just seems to be making a bit of noise. Or am I being paranoid? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Apple CarPlay is Apple is equivalent of android auto. I know that the grom units will do both and that is an android operating system as well, but they use the standard screen that fitted in the car Sadly would be a big deal breaker for me if it didn’t have Apple CarPlay Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does it come with Apple CarPlay installed?

Where I live we have some fairly steep hills, at the bottom of the hill I knock the gearlever into manual and use the paddles to go up to the gears as I climb up the hill. I find I have greater control over the gearbox and therefore a smoother run up the hill Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve had 3 Prius and IS300h, cumulative they have racked up 785,000 miles none of them have ever needed anything more than transmission oil change every 50,000 miles We’re not dealing with a 1970’s day variomatic anymore Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you have premium nav then those aliexpress ones will cost $621 Plus there will be customs tax on that as well, I’m guessing there’s at least another £60/70. I’ve bought quite a lot of JDM parts in the past from Asia and everytime I’ve been hit with a charge Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, that’s why they are tiny in comparison to a normal car battery Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, because a hybrid engine isn’t started by a starter that draws a large current. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would bet you’re still on your original 12v and that is now showing signs of ageing. Yes that voltmeter will do the job, connect the red and black probes as they are in the picture. Then turn the dial anti-clockwise until it is sat as the 20v selector (about 11 o’clock in that picture) and the put the red probe on the battery + terminal and the black on the - Press the power button twice and do not put your foot on the brake, so the ready light is not on. Make sure you have all the accessories switched off (radio/climate etc) Now take a voltage reading and see if it is holding/dropping slowly. Now turn one item on, I normally start with the radio. Check the voltage and see how quickly it drops. Then turn the lights on or heated rear window, these are heavier voltage items and so should cause a bigger voltage drop. Your battery should be anything between 12.5-14.4v at the start of the test, even with these items running I wouldn’t expect to see it drop below 10.5-11v if it does then the battery may be on its way out Hope that helps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You learn something new every day. I wasn’t aware of the spec on the facelifted cars. I would imagine it will be very costly to upgrade to a 10.25 screen as well as all the other bits you would have to replace to take the stereo to premium. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If I’m wrong on this then I apologise for misleading, I thought all 300h’s had a 10.25” screen but only used about 8” of it, everyone I’ve ever seen has two black boarders down either side of the screen. Upgrading premium isn’t as easy as it seem, believe you’ll need: Head unit Mouse controller Amplifier Speakers, all of them as they as diffferent to the standard ones. Wiring loom You may also need to program the car via tech stream to accept the stereo, again someone else will be able to confirm this. Given the cost of it you may be worth looking at an android screen replacement that gives you the 10.25” and also gives Apple Carplay/android auto as well as google maps etc, they are about £600 The other alternative is a grom unit that plugs in between the screen and head unit, retains your screen but gives you all of the android auto/Apple Carplay, they are about £400 Hope that helps a little Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As soon as I started reading your description I thought of 12v battery. What age is your car? They have a 5-7 year lifespan and because they are so small they can discharge quickly. I would get a voltmeter and measure the voltage across the terminals, 14.4v when the ready light is on, 12v when off and dropping if you have electrical items running, if it gets below 10v quickly then you have a dying battery, however before replacing it I would have someone carry out a proper load test on it. I genuinely thing the usb music file is a coincidence Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I spend 15 years working for a dealership, hardly a week went past without some car getting damaged, most of the time it was staff who were doing it. It seems to go with the territory, and the fact that the dealerships do seem to make the parking areas really small, that never helps

https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/116161-my-is300h-thread/?do=findComment&comment=1057773 Try this now [emoji6] scroll to post no8

My IS300h thread https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=80750&share_tid=116161&share_pid=1057782&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Elexusownersclub%2Eco%2Euk%2F&share_type=t&link_source=app Have a look at this [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have tried it the other side of the speedo binnacle and still it interfered with the keys, the moment it’s disconnected normality is resumed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, No the IS300h doesn’t have pas sensors in them. Are you doing front or rear disc and pads? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk