Herbie

Excellent news Gary, good to hear that. I think I mentioned to you last time that we live in Preston but have family in Carlisle and I too, have experienced the Carlisle way - not good at all. Glad your experience with Preston was a positive one. Next time you're coming down let me know in advance and you can call in for a brew

It's under warranty so don't even think about it, just get it back to the dealer (but I'll hazard a guess that the 12V battery may be on its way out). However, as it's your first hybrid you may just not have the hang of it yet because they are quirky. Apologies if you already know this but.... Press the brake pedal and press the 'Start' button, and if everything's alright then a few seconds later you'll see the green 'READY' light and off you go. The start-up sequence is that the 12V battery boots the computers, pressurises the brakes (interesting to note that you mention pumping the brakes!) and gets the car into READY mode, which is equivalent to a conventional car idling with the engine running and the alternator spinning. At this point you can drive away on battery power alone and the hybrid system will decide when it wants the petrol engine to run. Hybrids don't have starter motors or alternators. When the petrol engine needs to run the hybrid system energises Motor/Generator 1 (MG1) and uses that to spin the engine up to 1,000rpm before applying fuel and a spark to fire it. The job of the alternator is done by the hybrid system, traction battery and a DC/DC Converter that takes the 300-ish volts of the traction battery and lowers it to about 14.5V to charge the 12V battery and run the 12V electrical systems. Because the engine doesn't run all the time anything normally driven by a belt, such as the power steering pump or the aircon compressor for instance, is again driven by the traction battery via converters and/or inverters. The aircon compressor, for example, is driven by a 500V 3-phase AC variable frequency motor; power steering IIRC is a 48V motor and so on. If you're still reading this, well done, but I'll stop boring you now Usually a lot of seemingly unrelated symptoms often point to a dying 12V battery, which is why my first guess would be that, but the only real way to diagnose anything is by way of the OBD2 codes. At least you know it's under warranty and the dealer will get it sorted for you. Please let us know the outcome as it helps others in the future

Like you Barry, those wheel arches look hideous to me. Other than that, not bad.

That is exactly what I was going to say to Steven. Absolutely everything is controlled by the hybrid system so if the 12V battery cannot get that into READY mode then it's dead. There's no question of the hybrid system being able to do anything before it achieves READY status and, as I said somewhere above, it takes less than 20A to do that instead of the 300A or more a conventional car would need.

Mostly correct Paul. When a hybrid car is in READY mode it's just the equivalent of a conventional car sat idling, with the engine running and the alternator spinning, so yes, the 12V battery will be receiving charge at this point, but it's not the 12V battery that starts the engine. When the hybrid system wants to run the engine it energises MG1 and uses that to spin the engine up to 1,000rpm before applying fuel and a spark to fire it.

I'm sorry Steven but again, this just doesn't happen and in fact, it can't happen. The high voltage power cables leading from the traction battery are controlled by 12V NO (Normally Open) relays. As soon as the car is shut off these relays open and stop any output from the traction battery, therefore it can't give "a little bump of power" to anything, let alone the 12V battery. There's really only two states - either there's enough power in the 12V battery to boot the computers and get the car into READY mode, or there isn't. And if there isn't, then there's just no way for the hybrid system to 'assist' the 12V battery.

Boot floor dividers.

Thanks my friend but I've sorted it without removing that piece at all. I wanted to mount the GPS antenna for the Grom Vline 2 that I've just got but I found a different route. I took off the speaker grille and poked the wire down there instead. I have a different problem now Most installs I've seen have the Vline mounted in the glove box but that's a lot of space to lose, so I want mine mounted in that bottom storage space under the lift-out box of the centre console. This means I need to get the passenger side centre console trim piece out now in order to get the various wires and cables in there. Anyone know how to do that? It's the piece with the yellow line on that I need out:

Good point John - hopefully one or both of them will see this and know what to do.

These 'end caps' or to give them their proper name, instrument panel garnish, usually just pry off quite easily but this one has the airbag thing on it. I'm assuming that it's just an electrical switch with a bit of spare wire behind it so that the panel will come off and I can disconnect the switch - but am I right? If I attempt to pry that panel off am I in any danger of setting off the airbags or is it really just 'pryable' like others I've dealt with?

Conventional cars with starter motors can suffer from a rapid clicking called 'solenoid chatter' when the battery is low. There's enough power to energise the starter solenoid and pull in the contacts but as soon as that happens and power is passed to the starter motor the battery voltage drops like a stone. This causes the solenoid to release and battery voltage again climbs high enough to energise the solenoid, pull in the contacts and so it goes on until you release the key. Conventional starter motors will draw upwards of 300A when cranking the engine, but a hybrid takes less than 20A to get the car into READY mode.

Sorry Steven but that just doesn't happen. When the car is in READY mode then the traction battery does indeed keep the 12V battery charged, via a DC/DC converter that lowers the 300-ish volts to around 14.5V. If the car is not in READY mode then that DC/DC converter is not operating so it can't trickle charge anything.

Cheers Paul, I'll post the process

As Bill Bailey says, the gravitas of a pipe is hard to beat. If someone asks for directions you can point the way with it; you can point on the map with the mouthpiece; you can just sit and look thoughtful and enigmatic whilst holding the bowl and having the mouthpiece close to the lips, and so on

You're correct, the warranty doesn't cover batteries but nothing to lose by asking.

Yes it is, there are some amazing products out there these days.

Confirmed this morning by the developers at Grom HQ in the USA that my car needs the LEX8, so I've ordered it and it'll be here tomorrow.

How silly of them. All they have to do is take out and keep the microSD card and do a factory reset on the camera.

I've never smoked in my life, never even wanted to try it. However, both parents were heavy smokers so the first 20 years of my life were spent in a constant fog of tobacco smoke, both at home and at the pub. I find cigarette smoke to be the most offensive, really acrid and disgusting, but I'd even go so far as to say that I actually don't mind cigar smoke, even though I'd still never do it myself. At the top of the tree (so to speak) are the pipe tobaccos, some of which smell absolutely lovely.

They don't have alternators or starter motors, everything is done via the high voltage traction battery.

Batteries go by age rather than mileage so I doubt very much it'll be under any warranty. I'd say it's just time for a new one.

He may mean that they put dashcams in all the cars they use themselves, ie, the demonstrators and the loaners, not that they put cams in every car they sell to the public, which was how I interpreted your post.

The IS and the UX could have been done for their own purposes, ie, demo and loaner, so they wanted to have proof if a problem occurred. Are you the first owner of the ES or is it possible that the previous owner had it fitted and they mislabelled it as a repair?

Are you sure about that James? If so then my flabber is well and truly gasted as this would be the first dealership I've ever heard of, of any marque, doing this at their own cost.

Not sure why anyone would want to do that Dave - brakes are for slowing down/stopping, not gearboxes, especially on a hybrid The whole idea of these hybrids is that regenerative braking uses the kinetic energy that would normally be wasted in friction heat, to turn a generator to produce electricity to charge the traction battery. I doubt that using B would help either generation or braking processes in normal usage.