BachelorDays

I know the one. It used to be great - I used the place for years and years. But the original team sold the place a few years ago and since then it changes hand every year or so. On the mirror, do appreciate that the ones generally out there are the non-dimming type. The auto-dimming ones would be more expensive and used ones harder to find. I personally don't think it makes much of a difference.

A big variable in all this would be your own annual mileage. If you aren't going to hit 100k for another 5 years I'd go easy on everything but the essential (belt) and probably give that some time too. If you're a 20k+ user then it's all coming up soon enough anyway. I don't know about the cambelts on the Lexus but the cambelts on Toyotas in the '90s would suffer most if the cars were driven very hard (and I mean red-lining the RPMs), otherwise come off at the prescribed intervals looking pretty much like new. I wonder what experience members here have of their belt condition at replacement? Do shop around for the work. This is just the sort of thing that a good garage (specially an Independent) will do just as well as the dealer, but will be much cheaper.

toothbrush, surely ☺️ Always good to have a recommendation. Tad too far for SW London. I have another reference http://www.albinbmotors.co.uk I picked up from a post. In SE26 Beckenham. Even this is stretching it a bit.

Simples! Great news. I think just the parts alone would've been easily a few times £200.

There's a 2-min check that requires checking if the fuel cap is still tight. If you clean around the opening and inside the cap and tighten it and the light goes out, that should be it. Otherwise you're chasing the cleaning of EGR et al (something well covered in posts). The fact that the car is driving fine (at high speeds) hopefully indicates an easier fix. What's your mileage? Welcome aboard.

Welcome aboard! Pity about the mirror but I can relate to the reason. I've driven saloons all my life and the first time I drove an SUV was when I bought this one this summer. The first few days were fun with the nearside, although I guess I was erring more on giving a wide berth. I posted a few days ago about finding a decent garage in SW London. I'm in Wandsworth and I think focusing primarily on Lexus Battersea will probably not be the best option because of the likelihood of needing the type of work you mention (suspension, brakes, etc). I would rather have rapport with someone who will fix the non-regular issues if and when required - normal servicing shouldn't be a problem for a garage anyway. I don't need an immediate service so haven't decided yet, but I know a garage in Wimbledon who did good work on the suspension of my old MB E-Class. I've been meaning to go check if these guys have hands-on experience with the RX. The other place I want to check out is a Toyota Specialist in Mitcham - D&B Autos. £110 for a full valet.. Whatever have you been doing? On second thoughts, better not answer that. I've never found any consistency anywhere. If they are not busy they'll go over your car with a toothpaste if you select the next option above the 'Standard'. If they have a queue the extra £15 'Hand Finish' buys you an air freshener spray (sprayed by hand).

BTW, welcome to the club. I joined recently myself but have been a member of similar forums for quite a while. Absolutely invaluable.

So the charge isn't getting to the battery via the standard connection between the alternator and the battery? Alternator Fuse comes to mind. There's quite a lot on the net about it. It's not a straightforward check so do read up on it. If it does turn out to be the alternator fuse I'd want to know what blew it in the first place. Direct connection means no fuse watching over a potential barbecue, but if you know how to put together this direct connection you already know about the hazards.

Working rear fog lights are an MOT must, so they should've been working on the last MOT. Camera and lights probably unrelated. Let's see what your fuses check shows.

Its been drive chains since the RX350. No maintenance/inspection required on these.

Great news on the car! I'm sure the hybrid system is settling in after all these electrical blips. Do be mindful of a couple of potential loose ends. 1. Which fuse and why it blew? If it was the broken wiring of the sensor (and this isn't very unusual given its unprotected and underneath the car) then that's fine but you need to know. 2. The undercarriage needs a good examination to see if there's anything else that needs attention before it causes a scare.

Stick to the new engine demand - since if they now decide they can fix it by changing something like the oil pump you have no idea what damage has already been done. What's the mileage on the car?

See the pics attached to this ad, specially the rear view: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-RX-300-RHD-NAVIGATION-SCREEN-DISPLAY-AND-HEATER-CONTROL-86110-48130/253828949581?hash=item3b1962664d:g:Ep8AAOSwQFZbfxlV If it's a connection issue, only thing that comes to mind is one of the connectors dislodging itself over time (given some previous access/ removal). Could be a dry point inside - but you've had the car 4 years so this shouldn't really be unless you've spilled/sprayed something on or above the screen recently? No way of checking unless you get into it - don't know if you feel comfortable opening it up - from what I've seen in videos it's pretty straightforward. 1. You have tried the good old THUMP to see if it flickers/ rattles/ whatever? Starting, of course, with lil thumpies first and knowing when to stop! 2. Take it off and get a repair shop to test the LCD contacts.

Screen brightness controls would be the first thing I would check. If you are getting the Lexus Logo the screen, LCD is displaying. Interior lights all working?

There's no programming in with the MAF usually. If the code comes back it's because the fault is still being triggered. OEM part for MAF.. not a Chinese 'original'? Elecs specialist likely best bet. Dodgy fuse (in the main fuse compartment in engine bay**), earth points, maybe even a loose MAF connector. **Never play with the fuses with the key anywhere near the ignition. Best of luck!

Videos in Utube about it. Looks easy enough. I've been thinking about the same on my car. Wiper arms showing patches where colour has come off. Although will I ever be bothered enough.. Removing the arms itself is a doddle. Had to adjust them when I bought the car since they weren't wiping in the right range on the windscreen. I must say, though, I don't see any rust as such on the arms.

At least its driving again! I have some odd stories about MAFs - but first, are you saying that the codes come back after you've cleared them with your OBD scanner? If so, are the codes the same?

That would also explain why you noticed the engine coming on more. The problem is no one seems to relate this issue with a known/ experienced problem. If its a wire or connection going bad over time and eventually giving way then Lexus or a Toyota Independent will fix it without too much effort - and probably not be too different on cost. I would put the malfunction closer to the Inverter end than the 12v battery end. The electrical buzzing & electrical burning smell would all be consistent except that you had that wash (jets and all). Remove the battery and have a good look around. You might find an obvious loose/ burnt connection.

Thanks for this - it made me look up the way it works. So the 12V Battery is just to pass control over to the hybrids and the Inverter does the charging. Of course, the engine provides the power generation for charging the hybrids. So is it a lumpy engine causing a blip somewhere or is it a blip somewhere causing the lumpy engine? I hope Clive gets the car back to normal soon.

I know what you mean! They do seem to be few and far between. I'm in SW London so my search area is different to yours (unless there happens to be one around Staines). I can't imagine much that a Toyota Independent wouldn't know about these cars so I've identified one in Mitcham. Like you, I don't have an immediate requirement so will be looking out for more options. In fact I'm also considering having a chat with the garage (in Wimbledon) who was taking care of my old car. They did some suspension work and a starter and I found them to be competent. These cars have now been around for quite a while so shouldn't be that difficult.

Your code reader should reset the codes. I'm not too keen on connecting and disconnecting battery unnecessarily. I do take ColinBarber's point. It is a voltage issue if the O2 sensors are giving a heating element issue. In fact, your engine staying on for longer and coming on more also indicates a possible charge/ electrical issue. Voltage blips can get a MAF to misbehave as well (and effectively kill it so cleaner won't help). However, do note that a MAF can indirectly cause voltage issues too - it makes the engine stutter/ hesitate and flood and that may well, in turn, cause the alternator to give a voltage blip. O2 heater circuit errors on traditional engines are easy to follow since these will normally only happen at initial engine start-up (I think it has a check at 5 seconds). But where engines are starting and stopping many times they will be more difficult to track. Let's hope the MAF cleaning works. Please do tell once you've driven it.

Once the MAF malfunctions all systems downstream will be affected, since the mixture being advised is incorrect. The engine behaviour you've noticed also indicates an incorrect mixture. So tackle the MAF first. O2 sensors don't all go just like that. The only odd thing about this is if it has just happened overnight. Normally there is a period when engine and transmission smoothness begins to suffer - I don't know if you've noticed any changes in the last few days/ weeks. I can't help much with the best course of action - ie whether to try cleaning it first or just replace it. This would depend on how old is the MAF and what are the norms for MAF age in these engines.

Hi Everyone, As the title suggests, I'm looking for an electronic version of the Navigation System Manual (I suppose I could do with a hard copy as well). I checked on lexus.co.uk - they do these but only in Estonian, Latvian and Lithuanian. US versions are available but they are quite different to our systems. I emailed Lexus and got a prompt reply back saying the car age is too old for these manuals to be available online. I had mentioned in my email that their site has it in these other languages but they didn't comment on this. Many Thanks

So it misbehaves only when started during the warm phase (open loop). You've done the obvious bits (EGR cleaning et al). The reference to a throttle body was for explanation only - your diesel probably won't have one. The temp sensor is also called ECT (Coolant temp sensor, etc). I don't know its location on your car but it normally isn't too hidden away. There are links on the web on this for your car - hopefully you'll get a lead. One piece of advice from experience - don't just throw parts at it, get the diagnosis right first.

As suggested, the vibration and smoke is because its running rich. The fact its happening only when engine is luke warm suggests a sensor issue - most likely the Temp Control sensor (or equivalent). When engine is cold the car starts fine in open loop. When it gets to operating temp it goes into closed loop fine too. So maybe it isn't starting well when luke warm because the temp is misreported - so car starts in closed loop when it should really be starting it open loop. Have you tried switching the car off and then starting it again when this happens? Also what happens if you switch it off and then on again when its at operating temp? I'm afraid I can't be more specific since I don't have much experience with diesel engines. On petrol engines these symptoms will indicate Temp sensor and/or a throttle body clean.