BachelorDays

Some apt replies already - just saw this post. My MB would start doing this - and if you are used to your car doing something that's fine, otherwise you know something has changed and that's annoying. In my case it would be tyre related (although once I had the sway bar done as well as the tyre so can't say for sure). Then it would go away for 2-3 years and back again. I don't drive much and park for long periods so I have problems with tyres getting old/ hard spots, etc. No reason why your tyre wear should be uneven - so that obviously needs to be addressed. Alignment might just fix it. If the tread is running low that could also contribute. The tyres are obviously around 3 years old only so can't be an age issue (even Continentals last longer). Might even be that you've kerbed it a few times and the tyre is a bit affected. Presumably it doesn't lose any more air pressure than the others?

It's as Phil in the post above explains. Too many variables (mainly who's paying, but also age of car, etc). At the lower end of gauging the work the panel damage to the car isn't bad at all. Even that gash is small enough to be tackled easily. BUT given the fact the car is not that old AND that it's an insured claim, understandably, why shouldn't the owner get it back 'as it were before the crash'. That makes all the difference (between being fixed virtually imperceptibly and being fixed as if the damage didn't happen in the first place).

CPS? (Crankshaft Position Sensor) Will cause no start on a hot engine. Usually will not throw a code if bad. Why did the dealer advise injector replacement? Does it start smoothly when cold?

Most likely the 12v battery drained. I believe it's in the boot of your car.

I hadn't realised. So there must be hidden bolts under the paintwork that can get this panel off. I know you can cut it off and weld on a new one, but I don't consider that replacement as you would, for example, the bonnet or front panel.

That rear panel cannot be replaced. As Shada says, the repair itself is pretty straightforward. Standard denting and painting. Can't see the bumper needing to be replaced either. As for what Lexus will say and how you want to play it.. Couple of points, though. Get the rear wheel and suspension checked thoroughly. Do find out if a repair will mark the car with an accident Category. If any of these two apply, then you really do have a case for a write-off and you probably don't want anything more with this car. Best outcome: Lexus suggest it's written off, there's no damage to the wheel/suspension and you buy it salvage from the insurers.

When I bought mine I just assumed it had an Aux In. Oh well.. I haven't done anything about it (just burned a few MP3 CDs) but I have read up on it. Quite a few people added an Aux In in the US. The reference below, as an option, might be useful. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Lexus-RX-MP3-SD-USB-CD-AUX-Input-Audio-Adapter-Digital-CD-Changer-Module-6-6-/131807867421 What I do know (a member here recently changed their Nav LCD) is that getting access is pretty straightforward (just don't drop the screws as you undo them - the guy used a tea towel as a base to catch them in case they fell).

Hope you get it sorted easily. The only way the AA guy can be sure the alternator and starter motor are fine is by testing them and I'm not too sure how he could do that with a non-runner. Ideally the battery should be charged (or a fully charged battery/ very heavy booster used) before further investigation. If the engine cranks that means the starter is functioning - otherwise the fuse/solenoid on it could be blown and that will cause charging errors. If the alternator is gone the car will start with a good battery. These are basic checks - an auto electrician will go through these as standard. If it isn't the alternator (because it does sound like it) it could be a relay. The voltage running down would probably have caused a few other fuses to blow which would explain some lights and functions not working. If it is a relay do ask the guy why it has happened - happens once, will happen again unless underlying issue is resolved. Haven't had the engine bay washed recently or such?

Great news on the refund, as well as this one. Saw your first post too - I'm sure the Crown counts - I had a SuperSaloon in the '80s and it was serious enjoyment!

Another one who leaves his cars for months on end! And then they wonder.. One reason I only buy petrol cars is because they are the best in the lot for being parked for long periods. The cruise control unaffected rules out abs sensors and reluctor rings. Let's see what you find out in March. I'm thinking brake switch, air in brake lines/ brake oil too old, brake booster pump stuff (in that order). Safe travels..

Have you noticed any pattern about when these lights come on (when they come on whilst driving). It could be that the lights come on when your foot touches the brake pedal. It will be helpful if you can pinpoint an action that causes the lights. Also, the next time the lights are on, see if your cruise control still works - that'll rule out a couple of reasons given by your mechanic.

There is info in the Owner's Manual. I can check later if you haven't got a copy. How are the various fluid levels? Reason I ask is on my car a few were over the Max limit - the coolant level was half a litre over! All fluids very fresh (barring Transmission) but over the limit.

Typical sign (engaging whilst cold and drops after warming up). Where's the fluid going? Before you scrap it, though, let an independent transmissions specialist see it. It might just be the Governer/ Conductor plate, in which case see if the cost is worth it.

Disconnecting the battery for a while isn't going to do any more harm. If I remember correctly, your battery had run down to 6-some volts. That will cause sensor issues, but nowhere near as bad as a car which cranked on a bad battery (yours doesn't because it cranks on the hybrid battery). Leave it off overnight, but first, the VSG light et al also have a habit of coming on and off like this if the petrol filler cap is loose. You might just check that too. Needs to be tight and clean. Be careful cleaning the filler top - lest you drop dirt inside the tank.

The only page of note.. Hope it's clear enough. If not, let me know and I'll try again.

Welcome to the club! I've got the Owner's Manual in the car so if you need anything out of that just PM me. It's got details on oil specs etc. Probably what Herbs has sent you already, otherwise just let me know. Cheers

How long have you had the car? If it's a change that you've noticed then it needs further investigation. What's the tyre pressure recommendation on your car? Mine is 32psi and the front tyres look virtually flat at that, but that's what it should be. So do double check on that, might make enough of a difference. Some torque steer will always be there - everyone expects that and, occasionally, it will still surprise everyone.

The mount has to be removed to access the bolts for the arm?! Wow. Googled it and just saw a youtube video about it. It's in Spanish (I think) but the pictures tell all. The mount literally covers the arm bolt like a cup. Not that it matters much in the scheme of things, but what's the price of the arm as opposed to the bushes alone?

+1. I'm sure the dealer can get this fixed a lot cheaper. I'd be concerned about keeping this car (unless it was fixed by Lexus) since something has obviously got it into the condition where these fluids had to be changed. Bit surprised to see the dealer owning up - lucky!

I know how you feel. I bought a car around 10 years ago and had the dash go crazy with lights on my way home from the dealer! It had a blown CAT and a couple of sensors but thankfully the other parts were in good order. I got it fixed and then actually enjoyed it for many years, although the event itself left me with a bad taste. The guy had knowingly sold me a car not fit for driving. Let's hope Lexus can give you good news. The inspection you had done should give you a comfortable feel about the suspension and general state of the car, so it'll be easier for you to decide once you have the diagnosis from Lexus. I hope you've got in touch with the dealer. They should know you'll pursue it, although I have a feeling they probably have been in this situation before.

Filling up to the brim is a bad idea - it plays with the system that tackles petrol fumes in the tank and returning fuel. EVAC, Purge Valve etc are the terms usually associated with it. At present it does look like it's simply a case of over-filling/ bad petrol (very remote)/ petrol cap. Obviously no need to do anything at present. Hopefully won't come back. If it helps, I had a 2000 Mercedes E240 which used to throw CAT codes every few hundred miles - and ALWAYS after coming back from a trip across the Channel. Did that for a good 3-4 years. I thought the tank cap was a bit suspect and at the same time knew the MAF was probably on its way out (MAFs on MBs don't last long). The car was on its way out so never bothered. However, never had any issues with MOT, emissions, MPG, French speed cameras.. (although the last one is probably not a CATs issue anyway).

You could ride out this tank of petrol - maybe even fill up again half way. Bad petrol is a possibility but extremely remote. The other option is to get someone to hook it up and examine the live data. Still can't rule out a vacuum leak. You could go over the pipes around the engine, check the air filter housing, etc. But this is the sort of thing that normally only happens if someone's recently done some work under the bonnet and disturbed something.

MAF is upstream from all other systems in the mixture/combustion/emission systems. That's why a problem with it can manifest itself in many different ways. That's one reason MAF is the first thing that comes to mind - although at times maybe it comes to mind too readily! Your mention of the last fill up is interesting and may not be a red herring. If the car is running fine I'd park the MAF investigation for now. On the petrol cap, do you get that 'whoosh' when you remove it for filling? I'd still clean around the rim and check the O ring. But be very careful not to drop any dirt inside the tank filler. You could also check for codes a day or so after you've cleared them - these codes will first register as Pending and, only if persistently triggered, will then throw the EML.

A week before they came back again. That's not quick enough as far as I'm concerned. Roughly how many miles did you drive during this period and what's the mileage on the car? If the engine runs smoothly, specially at high speeds, it's unlikely to be O2/CATs. It could even be something as simple as a loose petrol cap (or a dried O ring inside it). If it's high mileage, maybe the MAF. Herbs is right - you don't need the dealer for this. Anyone with good diagnostics skills will be sufficient. A specialist in Toyota/ Lexus with a decent reputation will be great.

Looks like the Temperature sensor (I gave you this as a possible cause) is working fine. That's a high mileage on your car - I wonder if your model has issues with a CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor). That controls timing. For starters I'd check the connector on it for any carbon deposits, stains etc. The thing that gets me is that if the car is cold it doesn't misbehave - even after warming up. It's only if it is switched off and then started again whilst still warm that you get issues. Most things, like injectors etc, would misbehave after it had run a while from cold. Most things, like EGR clogs etc, would get better as the engine got hot. Tough one! Hope you get to the bottom of it.