LexusRbest

Our local council recycling centre has a waste oil recycling bit. I leave the containers of used oil by the tank. Going back to transmissions,I was experiencing hard shifts from my transmission last evening, concerning , until I realised outside temperature was down to one degree . Normal service was resumed once warm. I may have to get my wife to knit the transmission cooler a bobble hat to keep it cosy.

The rivets breaking through the trim shouldn’t happen in normal use and suggest misalignment of the window due to constant flexing , OR that it has been removed previously. Its hard to see from pics but could the door have sustained accident damage and been repaired and the trims not re-riveted. Looking at front corner end of the trim looks like it is misplaced.It also looks like it is a separate trim from the window rubber. It may be worth comparing it to a fresh used part. The kink in the metal under the black circlular sticker near control unit box could mean the inner panelwork of the door is deformed and needs a pull away from the glass by putting a couple of hooked implements over it and realigning it with a good pull.Try a straight edge along it to check. Looking at the upright tab cupped bit in the middle of the trim , the chips in the finish suggest the door card has to hook OVER it , but the marks look like the door card has been pushing against it, pushing the trim against window. TBH I haven't had a Lexus door apart but BMW door cards have to hook over that trim then swing down . The misalignment may also caused by the side glass guides that are bolted to the inner skin of the door, causing the guides to pinch the glass as it moves. I would try loosening them, one side at a time, to see if the glass ran easier. I have also seen a large branch being used to give the car a good thrashing, it may not fix the window problem but may make you feel better!

I just like the deposits out of there, I have seen some crusty stuff in my time, but remember....cleanliness is next to godliness! My theory is ,if its clean fluid the workings can get on with their job better than half baked ,sludgy stuff. Leaving the crud to accumulate seems to be leading to a day of reckoning, and if it is all that is stopping the clutches from slipping.......

Silicon spray down the window guides with glass all the way down should be on the annual maintainence list of all cherished car owners. I do it same time as the sunroof guides, silicon spray and wipe and check sunroof drains . then just to check ,run windows and sunroof fully open and then close them individually , holding the switch after window has closed for a few seconds longer to reset its ‘brain’ for auto close.

Transmission oil flows to the cooler from start-up regardless of temperature , so draining transmission of more than the two litres in the pan is possible by disconnecting a line to the cooler. I think the line on left is FROM tranny.The last bit is rubber pipe with a hose clamp so it is easy to separate so it can pump into a container.(gets messy) it helps if someone can start and stop engine while you catch fluid. I did it in stages ,removing fluid, measuring the amount in plastic measuring jug ( wife hasn’t noticed it missing yet) then refillling that amount back in with fresh fluid. Finally filling until it runs from level check plug on bottom of pan.This has a tube inside to maintain the correct level in the sump. Again I check this cold as the expansion of fluid when warm doesn't seem detrimental whatsoever Talking of LS 430 with 6 speed and no dipstick it uses WS type fluid (world series?) sourced on fleabay. LS400 with 5 speed and has dipstick uses type 1V (4) Mercedes use similar procedure on their 7 speed but I understand the temperature there is more critical as there is a thermostat to the cooler preventing over cooling when cold.

First job on ANY just acquired LS 430 has to be installing a separate transmission cooler..... Even with Full Lexus Service History coolant can corrode into transmission heat exchanger in bottom of radiator. Aftermarket Kit is about £100 from Paul Frost and is easy home install. My tuppence worth, as shade tree mechanic, when re-filling 6 speed transmission after changing filter ,fill from filler plug on side of gbox same amount as you drained out , and then remove check level plug in pan, if tube inside is in place, it should run out until level is correct. I do this cold. I know there is a toyota/lexus measure at temperature ‘ceremony ‘ but if level is correct at cold, the hot fluid expansion is not going to hurt. In my experience of Town driving and several high speed tours have shown no detriment to smooth shifting. Also These Iridium plugs do 80-100k miles ,these days a regular plug change is not so important,.....you are just showing your age........when I was a boy...every 6000 miles....gapped and cleaned....

This sounds like a sticking voltage relay. It isn't clicking in to allow alternator to charge battery. just because alternator was replaced ,don't dismiss it as not the problem. if it was an exchange recon unit it may previously have been removed due to this intermittent fault.

I have been successful in this respect . Autoglass repair glass breakage..... If you do it yourself you will need to remove the glass panel to fit the new seal. while it is out use tissue or kitchen towel to dry the joint between glass and metal subframe and apply a bead of polyurethane sealant like sikaflex( now available from screwfix) between the two on the inside edge of the metal subframe, just in case they did copy webasto............

I will let you know if I have a problem with overcooling but when there is a known catastrophic failure of these wonderful cars why would you baulk at a £100 fix by removing the cooling of transmission from the engine cooling radiator to an independent cooler? my car is on its second radiator which also dumped coolant into the transmission.!!! Twice is enough guys!

Fear not said he for mighty dread had seized their tiny minds..... you have just inherited a Lockdown project!!! I was under my 2005 ls430 today and I was also surprised at rust due to these wet days condensing on the underside. if you are handy get it on a jack with stands and blocks and only when it cannot fall on your head crawl underneath and have a look. take a wire brush and scrub away the road salt induced surface rust. are there holes ? Are they suspension components? Get them repaired with new parts from a breaker or welded. go to Halfords and purchase black waxoyl spray cans or clear if you want,spray all rusty areas.It will look like a new thing. its not rocket science ,but also there is no magic wand, so if you like the car return some love and refurbish it. Remember garages need to find work somehow...........

In my youth I had a commute that took me through some great twisty roads that were virtually empty, in a mercedes convertible 560SL Some sections were really testing on the car at the limit. I fitted wider tyres, wider wheels ,offset wider wheels, better quality tyres in my efforts to go faster, handle better. All I discovered was that the manufacturer had in fact fitted the optimum tyre and rim width and offset after their testing !!!!! By all means change for cosmetics but beware losing the ‘cloud’ ride.

The sunroof seal is a knock on trim that is often bonded on to the metal with sikaflex type mastic at the factory. it is like a miniture flocked version of a door seal it doesnt seal as such ,it just stops the worst of the weather getting in to overwhelm the drains. I haven't compared models but would expect all the Lexus models with a tilt and slide type sunroof of that era to use the same seal. there is a recall on webasto manufactured sunroofs in this style due to the glass delaminating from the metal sub frame on lesser makes like mercedes and ford ,.......hopefully toyota didn't copy that bit. try a sunroof specialist for a length of seal or a breaker for a better bit

I bought 10mm hose on fleabay to replace the gearbox cooler hoses, mine on a 2004 were ok but spongy. Paul Frost has an external cooler kit For about £100 ,you would be mad not to install one if you have the skills.

Wow ! That increases surface area, but it wont take much to clog it . Mine leaked in a previous life and although rad was replaced , gearbox Solenoids are playing up.

How easy did the caps come off the end of the heat exchanger pipe? I am shocked there is not more surface area to transfer the heat and also if fluid pressure built up in box would it not blow the caps off the end of that tube.?