DINO

Anyone know?

Hi all, Its time to change the gearbox and torsion diff oil. Can anyone tell me which brand to go for, did this make a difference rather than using the Toyata brand. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. I have a IS200 sport, cheers.

...yet very annoying. Is this a job for copper slip on the back of the pads? Lexus changed them at great expense, should I have to tell them what to do? Just get the white grease from Toyota or Lexus. It looks like toothpaste, put the grease into the clips that sit on the carrier, as well as on both ends of the pads. The noise will be gone for good as long as you do not place the jetwash hose too close.

Yes mine is a July 2001(Y) and my mates is a 2000 (X) Thanks fellas

Hi everyone, Just got my Road tax renewal, and its £205, whereas it was £190 last year. My question is a friend of mine has an IS200 SE (Auto), and his road tax was £190 last month. I have an IS200 Sport (manual) and I payed £190 last year. Should I be paying £205?, has it gone up in the space of a month? Any of you guys paid £205 this year?

Has anyone tried Enos oil. Its japenese and approx 75% of cars in Japan use it. (performance cars, decent cars etc) I can see why, but thats my opinion, its 5-30 and cost approx £25 for 4 ltrs. You can get any grade and also the other oils i.e diff, gearbox etc..

Hi, Those PIAA wipers are great, expensive but great. They release a coating of silicone which makes them gilde effortlessly.

Nicley put, unfortunatley, that day will be when we can live in outerspace and commute to earth, to work. If only I could live long enough to see all this, including teleporting.

Get the white brake pad grease that looks like colgate from Toyota. Put grease on the ends of the pads as you would normally do and also into the clips, inside the spring bit. When the pads move the spring is hitting the clip, hence the noise. I had the same issue and now its completely gone, even after washing the car a few times. And make sure you do not place the jetwash hose so close to the wheels and only wash the car when the brakes are totally cold.

Out of interest guys, are you talking about the "V" shaped spring that pushes the pads apart ? I've been putting up with a clonking noise coming from the front wheels for a while now. So at the weekend I took both front brakes apart and cleaned everything up, plus put a little copper slip/grease in the appropriate place. The knocking isn't as bad as it was but it's still there. Just wondered what else I could do/it could be, as I would like to sort it before I try and sell my car. Dave Hi, it was the four springs that the pads sit in, two on each side. What you need to do is get some grease, not copper grease but Toyota white grease from the dealer. It is for the pads, then put the grease in between the spring clips before you put the pads in with grease on them at each end. This will cure the issue, also make sure you do not palce the jet wash hose so close to the wheels when washing the car.

Take a trip to Halfords anf get a carb cleaner. It comes in spray form, then take of all the plattic on the top (air filter assy) so the throttle body is showing. Its next to the linkage. Spary loads in there and clean with a cloth. Turn the butterfly valve open eihter by hand or by turning the linkage and spray/clean with cloth. Do this until your happy that the throttle body is clean. Put everything back on and turn the car on. The car will not want to start but will after an trun or two. Trust me the car will feel great after that, it will be more responsive and the jerks will be gone. I've done this twice now in a space of 2 years, jsut needs a clean so everything is running smooth.

Thats it, thanks a lot. I wanted to check that the brake pad clips were put in correctly.

Hi all, I saw a diagram in this forum for the front brake pads and all the parts that go with it a couple of months ago on a search. Problem is I cannot find that thread anymore even after a big search. Can anyone put this diagram back on, I think its from the Lexus workshop manual. Many thanks. :)

Yes force was used with a screw driver and hammer to push the broken one out. But when the new one was put in from the inside, a lot of hammering was done. ] I think it may have been fractured already. When I was tightening the nut it was still tighting and had approx less than a 1/4 turn left and snapped. It was not cross threaded either.

I would like to thank Tony Bones. I took the car there yesterday, as I snapped one of my wheel nuts on the front. The nut was replaced a couple of days ago, but the steering wheel was facing right when going straight, which was also a fight to keep straight, as the car wanted to go left and was twitchy when turning. It was perfect before the nut was replaced (done by Tony). Tony could not believe it was 2 degrees out, thats a lot. Anyway the car is perfect again and I hope I do not mess the geo up again, thanks a lot Tony. No offense if I say I hope I do not see you soon. Thanks again. :D

I would'nt take it anywhere else other than to Tony Bones. I took it there yesterday, as I snapped one of my wheel nuts on the front. The nut was replaced, but the steering wheel was facing right when going straight, which was also a fight to keep it straight, as the car wanted to go left and was twitchy when turning. It was perfect before the nut was replaced (done by Tony). Tony could not believe it was 2 degrees out, thats a lot. Anyway the car is perfect again and I hope I do not mess the geo up again, thanks a lot Tony. No offense if I say I hope I do not see you soon. Thanks again. :D

B)--> QUOTE(Hank B @ Apr 16 2007, 01:39 PM) ← Thats her fixed, no clinkin anymore, it was indeed the springs. Cheers again :D Hey, no problem. I think we need to spread the word on this forum about the clunk issue, as there are many Lexus owners, not just IS200 owners who have this issue. Luckily my uncle, whoes been a mechanic for 40 years, solved the issue after driving the car and inspecting all the fittings to the brakes. He took the pads out including the springs to see how well they fit. You could clearly see that the springs were not tight againsts the pad and parallel to the pad. All he did was align that by moving various sides of the spring with those tweasor pliers. He then insured the spring was tight in the carrier before the pads were put back. Problem solved, I'm an happy IS200 driver.

#What metal do you polish in the car then. And how many times have you used the porter. Your paint must be wearing thin by now. I got it done once by a pro about a year ago (not easy to use). Results are awsome and still to this day, as long as you use the right products stop swirls happening again hey.

Cheers, do you use klasses all in one and he p21s cobination. Is it really that good?. (showroom look)

Chaps, Just bought the bundle from Autopia which consists of clay bar, restorers, cloths, klasses all in one and p21s wax just to name a few. Also used the dsicount codse found on the search. I could not believe the prices in the US compared to the UK. E.G meguires wax cost £16 in Halfords, on Autopia it costs $14.99 thats £7.50. Shipping was $60, but with all the products I bought I think I have just saved £100. What a result. Thanks to this forum. :D

:D Hi all, I had the same issue. New pads, discs, springs, shims were fitted. Turned out to be the springs. They need to fit very tight before the pads are fitted. Bend them so the clip into the carrier tight. You should not be able to take them out with your hand after. Clunks now gone when I go over ripples on the road etc.. :D

Hi I had the same issue. All the pads were tight against the clips. What I found out was that the clips support the pad by stopping movement by hight and width. The srping for the width and hight were the wrong way round (overlapping wrong). So I change the way the overlap in each clip aand the clunk is now gone. Even when I reverse and go forward again. Problem fixed. :D

Did they anti-squeal shims get put back on. There are 2 plates per side, which go behind the pad, so the caliper hits that first?

Hi fellow members, Anyone know of any professional caliper painters in the North London area, who will completly strip the caliper and bake the paint on. What sort of price are we looking at, as I just cannot be bothered to do it myself. Cheers

Sorry fellas, but what and where is the Charcoal Canister. Also does the valve clearence really need to be checked and how do you know if it does require a check. Cheers