MacRS200

My GS does this too, so it's quite normal :winky: ← Can understand the unlock button and 20 seconds but with the kid in the car incident I just parked up outside a shop, left her in the car and it auto locked

Mine flashes once on first push. Second push you hear the locks going again and I get 5 flashes. Car is a 2000 on W plate. Another thing is it sometimes locks it's self! Walk away with the key and locks go. Had it once when I left my step daugher in the car, she say's car locked it's self then alarm went off. Anyone else had this?

Nearest prob Hatfield

there wont be any play? best test is get the bearing hot ( short drive ) jack up the nsf hold the coil spring and spin the wheel if you can feel a rumble then the bearing is worn, if not move on... ← Thats bout what I did but not holding the spring. Give it a try tommorrow

If Lex replace the changer do you get a further 5 year warranty on the new one? Just wondering as mine is nearly 5 years old and I have had err3 a couple of times in 2 years but it seems sorted out now. From some of the posts it looks like a new one can do the same PDQ! Don't know whether to get it changed under warranty or stick with one that works at the Mo

Thats just it. I am in two minds now - I was going to put original sport springs back on but the ride does seem softer now then before. :duh: ← Prob just getting used to it?

I got a noise that sounds like N/S/F wheel bearing. checked it out with car on jack, no play and smooth as a baby's bum when you spin wheel. Asked local garage to check during service same result, all OK. Still bugs me as garage reckon tyre noise, the owner runs an Evo VI and they know their stuff. Have had Eagle F1's since just after I got the car and I am sure that the noise is new! Waiting for a while to see what develops. Anyway a bearing is a bearing and car manufacturers don't usually design for non standard ones espec for things like wheels bearings. So should be mass produced and cheap, try your local motor factor (not Halfords). Fittting is a different matter, did a rear wheel bearing on a Sierra once that needed the hub nut torqued to 220 Lb/ft, torque wrench was about 3 feet long!

Ride is a bit rougher but then as the the suspension is harder I expected that. Bad surfaces need more care as is if you are booting it the back end will find it hard to keep the wheels on the deck so may hop about a bit

I use "Nero Express" to burn CD's they work on everything. Some CD's have copy protection so use "Audiograbber" (free download) to convert to MP3 and they burn back as audio using Nero

2000 on a W plate Try slower on the bumps will only lift you 15mm I think as Eibachs are 30mm lower? ← Your springs lower the standard IS200 by 10mm. Later sports springs (I think from late 2001 onwards) lower the sport by an extra 5mm over the earlier sport models and 15mm overall compared to the S and SE Models. The Eibachs lower by 30mm as you rightly said. :) I already have a set of these springs - I thought you were offering the later springs that lower by 15mm. As a side note mate, why did you decide to go with the PI springs rather then the Eibach/TTE springs that alot of member go with? Just curious :D ← Worked on the theory that I was 15mm down anyway (wrong so far?) and that -30mm would only add another 15mm. Wanted more so went for PI cos they are -35mm. No compliants so far, handling great (New Golf GTI almost "lost it" in front of me today on a famous bikers road)

The old ones are ratting in my boot as I have no room in the garage with motorbikes and other stuff so want rid. Any arrangement between you guys is OK with me

2000 on a W plate Try slower on the bumps will only lift you 15mm I think as Eibachs are 30mm lower?

Was talking bout the old ones!

Just had PI springs fitted, 35mm lowering, so if i am right 20mm lower than a standard IS sports. Thought about putting them on e-bay but can't be ar**ed with the hassle. If I am right they will drop a any other IS by 15mm so if you want them you can hav em.

Read most of the turbo threads, including Marcus story, grief or wot! 20 amp fuse blowing you can bout start a car on 20 amps Anyway as instructions "generic" don't think that a fit is "wake up Sunday, quick bonk with the misses, dress, coffee & toast, "bolt on turbo", quick bore down the bypass to test, park-up, then down the pub for a beer and and lunch by 1 :D All seems there in the kit and it's 1.5K cheaper than any other one I have seen so thought you blower nuts might like to know.

Parkers do a mileage adjustment as well. It works out at £X per thousand over average mileage. Would guess about £40-50 per thousand for a Lex. They say average mileage is 10K per year. So based on your car being 5 years old it is 40K over which equals £2000 less than the book. Still does not match the difference

Found this while bouncing about the net. http://www.turbo-kits.com/IS200_turbo_kits.html Had an e-mail confirmation that shipping to the UK would be $350. That makes $3749 excluding any import duty. At todays exchange of $1.89 to the pound that makes the lot £ 1985 give or take. Any thoughts/comments out there? Was thinking about s/c but this is less than a TTE kit. Neil

Thanks Colin all is now clear. Been laid up with a bad tummy bug for the last few days so sorry for not thanking sooner.

Ouch that hurt, checked my wallet after that

Thanks for the posts guys and not wanting to offend anyone, maybe Im just thick but I am still confused. :duh: MAF, MAP or both? My understanding is summed up below Would have thought that a MAP in the air box would not measure much as pressure would stay at much around 1 bar (assuming no blower) especially upsteam of the filter. If there is a major difference downstream of the filter the filter would not be passing a lot of air and choking the engine. For a MAP to measure anything it would need to be down stream of the throttle butterfly in the manifold e.g between the throttle and the inlet valves. Coupled with other parameters such as engine revs and throttle opening air flow could be calculated. A MAP could just tell the ECU the manifold pressure so it knows the pressure difference between fuel and manifold so it can control the amount of fuel being injected per "squirt" but this seems a bit OTT Now MAF in the airbox makes sense to my simple brain. Air flow times cross sectional area equals volume per second going into the engine. Couple that with air temp, warm air being less dense than cold air, or maybe me, mass air flow can be worked out by the ECU. Pressure difference between fuel and manifold can be maintained by a variable restriction on the fuel return to the tank directly controlled by manifold vaccuum :) Am I totally off base with the above? So back to my confusion. MAF, MAP but surely not both.

Had exactly that problem with mine much sweating and swearing. Have a Graco one and the both the lap and diagonal feed through tha back of the base it also has an adjustable post thingy that sits on the floor so you just click the seat in and drive. Thought this was the idea of all travel systems. Can't have it behind the drivers seat as there is not enough room when seat in position for me to drive and I'm not that tall! So it has to go passenger side with the seat pulled forward. All in all IS not baby seat friendly but who cares

How does it measure air?

Can anyone point me to the MAF sensor on my IS Want to give it a clean and can't find it :duh: AM Thanks Neil