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Everything posted by Monocle

  1. DPF Regen techstream

    Yes, you have to drive it. Once the engine temp reaches the mid range the exhaust temps tend to be close to about 500C and the regen cycle will start. Just drive it normally, no need to rev hard or anything like that from my experience. I know there must be a way to do a stationary regen but I have yet to discover how to do it.
  2. Yeah, the fogs don't seem to be available on the F Sport pre the 2015 face-lift. I could be wrong on this. Also, I'm in Ireland where I have dealt with two of the four dealers in the country and both are hopeless. I left my details and requirements with them about three years ago and have heard nothing since! Have you driven the 450h as a comparison to the 300h? Did you notice much of a difference - basically is it worth the extra few quid?!
  3. What spec are you looking for @Shahpor? I'm hunting for a Gs450h F Sport 2013ish black on black hopefully with the 12 inch screen! However it pains me that it doesn't have fogs. So now I'm torn between that or waiting a year or so for the face-lift to come into budget and going for the same but in blue. Also, I'm not a fan on the brushed aluminium either but that's a bit too picky
  4. I know very little about exhausts and the types of steel used in exhausts but, remembering back to my college days (a good while ago!), there is a broad range of steel grades across generic groupings like mild, stainless, etc. The first thing we were told is that stainless does rust, just less, and in some cases can be magnetic. The one thing I do remember is that for a steel to be classed stainless, it has to have a minimum level of Chromium. 10% or something like that. It can be very hard to tell the difference between mild steel and a low grade stainless steel especially if it hasn't been polished and has been through the rigours of high temps, moisture and acidity.
  5. As we all know the corrosion on the IS wheels is heartbreaking and it couldn't make the wheels look worse. So I decided to refurbish them myself. Firstly, this was a very unenjoyable job and I made loads of mistakes. I have only done one so far and I'm not looking forward to the other three! People like @dougie175 should look away now! Brief summary: Purchased primer, gun metal base coat and clear coat (spoke to a paint specialist so he pointed me in the right direction for each) all in cans Bought several grades of sandpaper from 80grit to 600grit Cleaned the wheel with methylated spirits Started working on the corroded sections first by hand - I was getting nowhere (only doing the front section of the wheel - not the inside that you never see) Moved on to an 80grit flap disc which certainly removed the corrosion but was far too aggresive and made the job of smoothing out the marks it left a real chore I used a hand sander (floor sander) with 160grit - this worked well but could only reach about 50% of the area Used 160grit paper by hand on the rest of the areas Used 320grit everywhere before priming Took 4.5 hours of sanding in total to this point Masked off the wheel and valve Sprayed several coats of primer then wet sanded with 600grit Sprayed several more coats of primer Allowed primer to dry (not long enough though, enough though I followed the instructions - must have put too much on) Sprayed several coats of the base coat - noticed some spotting where the base coat wouldn't stick (just layered up in these areas but came up a bit bumpy) Finished with multiple coats of clear coat Allowed to dry for 24 hours Mistakes: Used far too low a grit flap disc on the corroded areas (however it was needed to remove the kerb rash along the rim). Would use around 200grit next time Didn't allow primer to dry for long enough - probably due to coats being too thick I didn't have a ventilated place to do this so I did it outside - wind was a pain when spraying, hence mistake #2! Should have spent more time sanding every little mark as it all shows up when painted All in all, it is far from professional and the other wheels will be better. Photos below. Total job time, 6 hours (excluding drying time between coats). Also need to buy new centre caps. Before (this is actually the other front wheel as I forgot to take a before pic) Sanded and ready for primer Primed and ready for wet sanding Base coat applied - flaws can be seen here Final wheel on the car Lines left from initial sanding can be seen
  6. Yeah, the tyres are due to be changed in the next few weeks so didn't bother dressing the current ones. Absolutely agree, I have probably saved about half the cost but it is about five hours a wheel in my time. I enjoy doing myself though. Job satisfaction and all that. I certainly have learned a lot and the hard way!
  7. I don't think it matters with modern cars. The lines all run directly back to the actuator. Sucking out the old fluid shouldn't introduce air I would think. Just top it up after. That's what I did anyway. You will notice air in the system very quickly.
  8. As we all know the insurance market is a cartel. In Ireland anyway, over the last two years we've seen 60 to 70 % increase in premiums. And that's coincidently across ALL insurance companies. Would it not make sense that insurance companies would benefit from sharing blame? Not just to reduce the burden of the payout, but also to remove the no claims bonus of both parties. I'd love to do the maths on that. Throwing out the buyer beware card is ridiculous. As John said above, it is a legal requirement to have insurance not a nice to have. They have all of the leverage in the transaction. This was reduced a little by competition in the market but as I said above, the cartel arrangement negates this. Sorry for the rant but in my eyes, car insurance companies come a close second to car rental companies in terms of unethical behaviour.
  9. I put this together from all the scrap pieces of paper that I had written on and thrown in the service manual. Just throught I'd share - some may be interested. Next car I get, I'll include tyres and others like bulbs, etc. Also, I'll track costs too.
  10. That's the million dollar question! I had the same issue. It did nothing when showing ON and in neutral. However, it seemed to work for me when I drove the car. I can't remember exactly but it shows different statuses under "DPF No Activate" (something like "running" followed by "complete". I'll double check to be sure but won't get to do so until next week. In your results above, the exhaust gas temps are wway to low for regeneration - they need to be closer to 500C as far as I know. Also, I'm not sure about your EGR - replacement probably needed.
  11. Hi All, Looking to buy a GS450H F Sport. Budget means I'm looking at about 4 year olds at the moment. I always thought I wanted Black on Black but having seen the car below pop up on AT, I am beginning to doubt myself! However, this colour seems to only be available after the 2015 facelift. It tried a search to find out exactly but couldn't get a definite answer. The colour is "Ultrasonic Blue Mica 2.0" I think. Does anyone know if this was available pre-2015? Thanks in advance.
  12. Cheers Lee - thought as much. Dare to dream!
  13. I did say black on black was what I'm looking for but this is just stunning!!!
  14. As you can see, I learned that the hard way!
  15. Yeah, I honestly don't feel it has let me down. I like working on it too so that helps. To be honest, I do love the car but it's over 7 years since I bought it so I'm itching to upgrade. Looking at the GS450H 4th gen at the moment (F Sport, Black on Black - only one available currently) - finances dictate that it could be another few months before I can afford it though!
  16. If it is blocked, you will have DPF PM Block showing "Blocked". But you would know this already as check VSC, engine light, etc. would be lit up on the dash. If you want to check if it is on its way to being blocked, bring up the revs over 2,500 at least (driving or stationary) and watch the differential pressure. Mine showed about 10-12 kPa (about 1.4-1.7 psi) when blocked. It should be less than 2kPa (0.3 psi) under normal operation (from what I have heard). No harm to run the forced regen anyway.
  17. OK, I'm with you now on the 2k. Probably should have looked it up first! I do have a compressor but it only puts out about 4.5cfm. Not sure investing in a gun is worth it anyway as I don't have anywhere indoors to spray. I'll definitely follow your recommendations on the process for the next one. A question on corrosion, if I am sanding back to bare metal, ensuring all of the corrosion is removed, why would you think it would return without acid treatment? Thanks again for all the advice.
  18. That's great advice, thanks - wasn't aware of any of that! Yes, I'm using all aerosols. Will purchase the high build 2k for the last two. I'm actually a step further than DA discs. I was using a 4.5inch angle grinder. Way too powerful to have control. The problem is that the corrosion is heartbreaking and so much effort by hand. The automation cuts the workload by 90% but at a price. Next time I'll be using a wire brush attachment on a drill to get as much of the corrosion down. Then I'll use ascending 120, 240, 320 grits. Apply the primer, wet sand with 600 grit then prime again. Colour coat then clear. I'd be delighted if you could recommend another method to cut through the corrosion!!!
  19. GS 450H my first Lexus

    Excellent write up Lee! Well done, it looks smashing. Looking forward to more in this thread into the future Leaning toward a GS myself. Was considering 4th generation but seeing this is making me think!
  20. The proejct got delayed a bit but managed to get the second wheel completed this weekend. Left Rear this time. If I was to give the first effort a 5 out of 10, I'd give this a 6. I'm not being over-critical just that I think I'll never get it perfect the way I'm doing it. Hand sanding will never be as good as the acid bath! Also, spraying outside if certainly not ideal! I learned a lot from the first effort - like using a 240 grit flap disc instead of 120 grit. However, it was still way too aggressive. Next time I'll be doing everything by hand, bar a little initial go with the wire brush drill attachment. The final product - the white dots are bits of fluff.
  21. Any chance they ran a forced regen during your service? They did during mine when I sent in with P2002 fault.
  22. I've just been through this whole process. Yeah, the problem is the X Horse cable doesn't initally work with 64-bit. I reverted back to digging out an old Vista 32-bit laptop and it worked fine. I am tempted to try to install on Win 10 using these instructions but haven't got to it yet. Hope it helps!
  23. So I have the Techstream software up and running. I mainly want to use it to run forced regens at regular intervals on IS220D. The usual P2002 fault was up so I managed to clear that with Techstream. However, when I went to run the DPF regen, I ran into problems. I can select it ok and it says it is in "ON" mode but nothing happened. There was some mention of initial conditions like engine temp which were all within stated ranges. But I expected the computer to take over and start bringing the engine through different rev cycles. Literally nothing happened. It stayed idling for over an hour! The mode switched to "OFF" eventually and then the fault reappeared. Has anyone run this before and could advise? I also tried it while driving and it seems to help as the fault code didn't come back but the differential pressure still isn't great. But it says that the egnine must be idling and in neutral. Not sure what is or should be happening to be honest. Thanks in advance.
  24. Thanks Robb. I think it may have regenerated when I was driving and running the program. I'll be trying again soon no doubt!
  25. I have now driven about 500 miles since I (think I) carried out the forced regen. Not a hiccup so I'm delighted. Will probably run it every couple of months but would still love to get to the bottom of how the program runs the regen cycle. Lexus wanted €300 to do it for me.