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Everything posted by Monocle

  1. Hi All, After 8 years, 130k miles and a few headaches, I am moving on from my IS220D. Heading over from Ireland to pick up a 2014 GS450H F Sport on Tuesday week! Thank you to all for the excellent help and advice I received over the years. Genuinely kept my car going at times! I know that the car gets a lot of flack but it has served me very well and also fed my interest in DIY car repairs (not everyone's cup of tea!). Honestly, I will miss it. (Alloys upgraded since photo!)
  2. In general I think is220d owners for the most part were disappointed with the fuel efficiency. As a result, some were driven too gently. This in turn created issues around carbon build up as temperatures were never consistently high enough to burn it off. This then caused DPF issues and back pressures. Also, I am an advocate for the car. But it needs care. Enjoy it!
  3. From memory, it all drains from the stop ***** on the radiator. Just open the cap on the reservoir and it'll drain very quickly. Good luck with it!
  4. You need to drain the reservoir at least as that has to come out
  5. @Coolissimo I know the coolant is a pain but it's easy and you can reuse it. That's the least of your worries. Also, I didn't torque anything. Just take it handy on the common rail. Very exact advice I know, but it has stood well for me for over a year at least.
  6. IS220D Inlet Manifold Cleaning

    I could be wrong but I think the sponge is just held in by the EGR. Honestly can't remember but definitely not anything to worry about. I bought it on a disk on ebay. No link unfortunately. Only about a fiver. Well worth it.
  7. I posted this a while back but I forgot to post in this section. I've added a few photos at the bottom as well. First off, I am not a mechanic so my terminology may annoy some of you! I did this as i was getting a lack of power at about 2500revs mainly in higher gears. It has improved dramatically. Fuel efficiency seems to have improved but only slightly so I can't say for sure. For this guide, I refer to right and left as you stand at the front of the vehicle looking into the engine. I know this is not the norm so apologies if confusing. Front refers to the front of the car as standard. Also, the elec. connectors are the biggest pain in the &%$£. Trying to squeeze the clip and pull at the same time is so difficult as they are usually well stuck in place being nine years old! Don’t give up! Job time – 10 hours over two days (I didn’t have a guide so hopefully you will do it faster – it would take me about 6 hours if I did it again) Set up tools, bench, laptop, etc. (1 hour) Disassembly (5 hours) Cleaning (2 hours) Reassembly (2 hours) Basic tools are required but just having a good socket set is very important. Not necessary to jack up vehicle but would help. I drove the front wheels up on 3inch blocks. This is the order I did it in, you may want to do it a little differently. I include headings for the most part but in general this order worked well. Here we go!... Covers: Remove primary engine cover Remove RH engine cover Remove LH engine cover Remove front engine cover Remove under engine covers (x2) Battery: Disconnect battery terminals Remove battery horizontal support brace Disconnect the electrical connection on the LH side of the battery cover Remove battery cover Remove battery Remove base cover of battery Remove battery vertical support brace Remove control module under battery (x3 bolts – long one goes on RH side) Disconnect 3 elec. connectors on control module Remove bottom battery case (x3 bolts) EGR: Remove EGR pipe and gaskets Disconnect EGR elec. connector Remove EGR valve Radiator: Open radiator cap and drain ***** (have bucket ready to take ~5 litres) Drain fluid Remove air intake duct above radiator Disconnect inlet and outlet pipes of radiator fluid reservoir tank Remove reservoir tank Various: Disconnect fuse box wire harness clips (x2) Disconnect common rail front end elec. connector Disconnect common rail fuel supply hose Disconnect common rail rear end elec. connector Remove wire harness support bolts (x2) Various: Disconnect EGR valve rear end elec. connector Remove five wire harness clips (red arrows) Remove harness support (green arrow) Remove sponge adjacent to EGR valve Various: Remove bolts (x3) on water pipe (blue arrow) below EGR assembly Remove clip at front end of pipe and slide hose off Remove vacuum hose (small) from water pipe (underneath) Remove elec. connector under vacuum hose & remove clip also (hard to see but you’ll know it has to be disconnected) Push hose assembly out of the way – towards battery area (no need to fully disconnect) Air Flow (Throttle) Assembly:- Disconnect three elec. connectors on air flow unit Remove bolt on air flow unit Common Rail:- Remove common rail bolt (x2) Remove common rail fuel lines Protect (tissue) the common rail connectors & ports Remove common rail and keep clean Inlet Manifold: Disconnect vacuum hose from inlet manifold Remove inlet manifold upper stay bolt (it’s a vertical support that can be hard to see) Remove air flow pipe to inlet manifold (1 clip also) (difficult to remove for me but keep twisting and pulling – there is a lip to overcome) Loosen inlet manifold lower stay nut (very difficult to access – hard to even see. This was the most awkward part of the whole job. You should really disconnect for easier access but it would be impossible to get it back on – loosening and pushing it aside was fine for me) See diagram below. Remove bolts (~x9) on intake manifold Remove intake manifold Cleaning: Clean inlet manifold – I used a power hose, carburettor cleaner, screwdriver for scraping & kitchen paper. Clean inlet ports – as above but I used a hoover continuously to prevent as much carbon as possible entering the valves/cylinders Reinstall in reverse – much easier than disassembly! Prime the fuel system. Photos: Photo 1 - Inlet ports exposed after inlet manifold clean. Of the four ports showing, the first has been cleaned mostly, the second is as found, and the third and fourth have some cleaning done. Highly recommend using a hoover if scraping any carbon from here. Otherwise just coat with carburetor cleaner and wipe away with a cloth. Photo 2 - Inlet manifold removed. Condition hard to see but constriction increases further into the ports. Photo 3 - Inlet ports - two untouched and two partially cleared.
  8. This might help...
  9. Hi All, After 8 years on the IS forum, I have finally moved on to a 2014 GS450H. Picking up next Tuesday week - no photos yet unfortunately and the ad has been taken down already. I will put some up when I get the car. As with every car I've ever owned, it's black on black. Very exciting, I know! It ticks most of the boxes for me. It's an F Sport but missing the front fogs and doesn't have the larger screen unfortunately. Has a sunroof which is a nice addition. Anyway, just looking for some general thoughts or advice. Will be looking to add the fog light kit and would love to do something about the hybrid badges beside the rear wheel arches (for some reason they look addly placed to me!). I have an iPod that goes everywhere with me. It's quite large in size (240GB) and not sure if it will work with the GS. Has anyone tried? Thanks in advance
  10. Thanks for the reply. I'm a bit old school and still have an iPod which unfortunately has no bluetooth option!
  11. Thanks Shahpor, I'll keep you posted on how it goes! Hopefully I'll sell it to someone local so I can see how it ages!!!
  12. Definitely not an impulse purchase - a long, long time saving for it Yeah, really looking forward to it. A nice six hour drive to the ferry when I pick it up will get me well accustomed!
  13. Hi Lee, Ha, a tricky question! I had been so impressed with my previous Lexus that it was an easy decision to stay with the brand. Also, my regular drive on a daily basis has swung a bit more urban than it had been so a hybrid seemed like a great option for me. Other factors such as car tax (in Ireland on the IS220D is about €1,100 versus about €300 on the GS450H) and fuel consumption (at the moment for me is about 30mpg diesel so if I got anywhere close to 40mpg in petrol, I would be savings about €1,500 per annum) really help with the finances! I had a GS450H for a weekend about two years ago and enjoyed every minute of it. I also had a short drive (20 mins) in a IS330H around the same time and it just fell a bit short for me. Really well finished and comfortable but the extra pull from the GS drew me in. I did think about a third gen GS (lovely looking car) but I have a history of holding on to cars for a long time so it made sense to buy a newer model.
  14. IS220D Inlet Manifold Cleaning

    Hi @Coolissimo! You are right to ask. It is a while since I did this but I know you have to remove the reservoir tank so at least that much of the system will need to be drained. I think I replaced the coolant at the same time hence the full drain. But, simple answer, just empty the reservoir and you should be fine!
  15. DPF Regen techstream

    Yes, you have to drive it. Once the engine temp reaches the mid range the exhaust temps tend to be close to about 500C and the regen cycle will start. Just drive it normally, no need to rev hard or anything like that from my experience. I know there must be a way to do a stationary regen but I have yet to discover how to do it.
  16. Yeah, the fogs don't seem to be available on the F Sport pre the 2015 face-lift. I could be wrong on this. Also, I'm in Ireland where I have dealt with two of the four dealers in the country and both are hopeless. I left my details and requirements with them about three years ago and have heard nothing since! Have you driven the 450h as a comparison to the 300h? Did you notice much of a difference - basically is it worth the extra few quid?!
  17. What spec are you looking for @Shahpor? I'm hunting for a Gs450h F Sport 2013ish black on black hopefully with the 12 inch screen! However it pains me that it doesn't have fogs. So now I'm torn between that or waiting a year or so for the face-lift to come into budget and going for the same but in blue. Also, I'm not a fan on the brushed aluminium either but that's a bit too picky
  18. I know very little about exhausts and the types of steel used in exhausts but, remembering back to my college days (a good while ago!), there is a broad range of steel grades across generic groupings like mild, stainless, etc. The first thing we were told is that stainless does rust, just less, and in some cases can be magnetic. The one thing I do remember is that for a steel to be classed stainless, it has to have a minimum level of Chromium. 10% or something like that. It can be very hard to tell the difference between mild steel and a low grade stainless steel especially if it hasn't been polished and has been through the rigours of high temps, moisture and acidity.
  19. As we all know the corrosion on the IS wheels is heartbreaking and it couldn't make the wheels look worse. So I decided to refurbish them myself. Firstly, this was a very unenjoyable job and I made loads of mistakes. I have only done one so far and I'm not looking forward to the other three! People like @dougie175 should look away now! Brief summary: Purchased primer, gun metal base coat and clear coat (spoke to a paint specialist so he pointed me in the right direction for each) all in cans Bought several grades of sandpaper from 80grit to 600grit Cleaned the wheel with methylated spirits Started working on the corroded sections first by hand - I was getting nowhere (only doing the front section of the wheel - not the inside that you never see) Moved on to an 80grit flap disc which certainly removed the corrosion but was far too aggresive and made the job of smoothing out the marks it left a real chore I used a hand sander (floor sander) with 160grit - this worked well but could only reach about 50% of the area Used 160grit paper by hand on the rest of the areas Used 320grit everywhere before priming Took 4.5 hours of sanding in total to this point Masked off the wheel and valve Sprayed several coats of primer then wet sanded with 600grit Sprayed several more coats of primer Allowed primer to dry (not long enough though, enough though I followed the instructions - must have put too much on) Sprayed several coats of the base coat - noticed some spotting where the base coat wouldn't stick (just layered up in these areas but came up a bit bumpy) Finished with multiple coats of clear coat Allowed to dry for 24 hours Mistakes: Used far too low a grit flap disc on the corroded areas (however it was needed to remove the kerb rash along the rim). Would use around 200grit next time Didn't allow primer to dry for long enough - probably due to coats being too thick I didn't have a ventilated place to do this so I did it outside - wind was a pain when spraying, hence mistake #2! Should have spent more time sanding every little mark as it all shows up when painted All in all, it is far from professional and the other wheels will be better. Photos below. Total job time, 6 hours (excluding drying time between coats). Also need to buy new centre caps. Before (this is actually the other front wheel as I forgot to take a before pic) Sanded and ready for primer Primed and ready for wet sanding Base coat applied - flaws can be seen here Final wheel on the car Lines left from initial sanding can be seen
  20. Yeah, the tyres are due to be changed in the next few weeks so didn't bother dressing the current ones. Absolutely agree, I have probably saved about half the cost but it is about five hours a wheel in my time. I enjoy doing myself though. Job satisfaction and all that. I certainly have learned a lot and the hard way!
  21. I don't think it matters with modern cars. The lines all run directly back to the actuator. Sucking out the old fluid shouldn't introduce air I would think. Just top it up after. That's what I did anyway. You will notice air in the system very quickly.
  22. As we all know the insurance market is a cartel. In Ireland anyway, over the last two years we've seen 60 to 70 % increase in premiums. And that's coincidently across ALL insurance companies. Would it not make sense that insurance companies would benefit from sharing blame? Not just to reduce the burden of the payout, but also to remove the no claims bonus of both parties. I'd love to do the maths on that. Throwing out the buyer beware card is ridiculous. As John said above, it is a legal requirement to have insurance not a nice to have. They have all of the leverage in the transaction. This was reduced a little by competition in the market but as I said above, the cartel arrangement negates this. Sorry for the rant but in my eyes, car insurance companies come a close second to car rental companies in terms of unethical behaviour.
  23. I put this together from all the scrap pieces of paper that I had written on and thrown in the service manual. Just throught I'd share - some may be interested. Next car I get, I'll include tyres and others like bulbs, etc. Also, I'll track costs too.
  24. That's the million dollar question! I had the same issue. It did nothing when showing ON and in neutral. However, it seemed to work for me when I drove the car. I can't remember exactly but it shows different statuses under "DPF No Activate" (something like "running" followed by "complete". I'll double check to be sure but won't get to do so until next week. In your results above, the exhaust gas temps are wway to low for regeneration - they need to be closer to 500C as far as I know. Also, I'm not sure about your EGR - replacement probably needed.