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Now the sun is shining...

I've had a pair of front bushes in the cupboard for ages now and it was time to fit the new anti-roll bar bushes.

It's a simple task but can be fiddly.

I removed the front under cover and it didn't take long to realise the small side covers would need come out too. This is simple but essential to get full access to the bushes.

Releasing the bushes needed some persuasion as the bracket was not going to pop out, I was beginning to wonder whether the bushes were fine after all. I levered them out with a long screwdriver.

Fitting them and the bracket and then getting them to align with the bolt holes was a swear and jiggle. I realised that I'd have to work on them as a pair and not do one side up as this left zero room for the other. More swearing and jiggling and added taps with my heavy mallet and extension rod to tap things home in addition to pushing the things. The passenger side: the second to be fitted was a real squish and push to get the bush around the bar and seemed to take ages. I tightened all up bit by bit and finished off with a torque wrench at 28 NM.

It was a job worth doing for sure as the old bushes felt and looked on the thin side and showed 22 years and 98K miles of wear. 

Unless mistaken, the front feels better and sounds quieter, less vibration etc. Might as well look at doing the rears too.

Next job though is the Transmission mount replacement. I've ordered one via Ayamara, Lexus part 12371-50060 at £36.52 including postage.

These kind of jobs are definitely cheap quick wins.

:driving:

  

 

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58 minutes ago, Tinonline said:

Unless mistaken, the front feels better and sounds quieter, less vibration etc. Might as well look at doing the rears too.

 

Had front bushes done just before covid and rear a few weeks ago (along with new drop links all round), and it make the car a lot quieter (way less background rumble), and also rolls a heck of a lot less.

Still got a slight knock on front, but not sure if that is upper or lower control arms needing a look at.  Need o get my service records out and see when the control arms last replaced, but car is on 215,000, and not as 'tight' as my wifes 4 year old Mazda 2

By the way be interested to hear whether transmission mount makes that much difference when you fit, as I cannot detect any difference in creaks and rumbles from being in gear or coasting, so assume mounts okay(ish) for now

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Did mine last weekend, same issues as you and more or less used the same method/s. I used a pry bar with a pointed end to line up the holes but still a pain under the car. As you say, you have to do them in tandem but it takes a while for the penny to drop, I should have remembered from the last time I did them on another LS400 a couple of years ago.
Good write up by the way and better than mine👍

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1 hour ago, Razor61 said:

Did mine last weekend, same issues as you and more or less used the same method/s. I used a pry bar with a pointed end to line up the holes but still a pain under the car. As you say, you have to do them in tandem but it takes a while for the penny to drop, I should have remembered from the last time I did them on another LS400 a couple of years ago.
Good write up by the way and better than mine👍

Thank you for your kind comments…I attempt to make up for poor patience and ability in the attempt of fixing the car and I’m pleased you liked the write up. 👍😁

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16 hours ago, Cotswold Pete said:

Still got a slight knock on front, but not sure if that is upper or lower control arms needing a look at.

I have some annoying knocks and creaking on the front but nothing drastic, I checked the front UCA's and they looked in good condition. What method do you use to check the control arms?
I've replaced the lower ball joints and that improved things, I also sprayed WD40 on the drivers front strut rubber spring mounting pads and the spring. I'm reasonably sure that has stopped some annoying creaks and noises on the drivers side so will do the same on the passenger side.

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10 hours ago, Razor61 said:

I have some annoying knocks and creaking on the front but nothing drastic, I checked the front UCA's and they looked in good condition. What method do you use to check the control arms?
I've replaced the lower ball joints and that improved things, I also sprayed WD40 on the drivers front strut rubber spring mounting pads and the spring. I'm reasonably sure that has stopped some annoying creaks and noises on the drivers side so will do the same on the passenger side.

It’s that Lexus front end journey we are often are all on. 😶🌫️
I had the lower control arms done with pressed in OEM bushes, new lower ball joints and a wheel bearing driver’s side.

The front anti roll bar bushes have made a big difference.

The problem is the MOT just does not pick up wear when we as drivers are hearing and feeling it…

Get a bar under the wheel and check for movement for UCA…but what is your mileage and age of vehicle? 

We are lucky we’re not running Jaguars…they need suspension at 30 to 40 k miles not the the 80-100 + where we are at…

I need to road test more but my creaking seems to have gone with the anti roll bar bushes…maybe less stress and strain on other components? No idea…

 

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On 3/24/2022 at 4:21 PM, Cotswold Pete said:

Had front bushes done just before covid and rear a few weeks ago (along with new drop links all round), and it make the car a lot quieter (way less background rumble), and also rolls a heck of a lot less.

Still got a slight knock on front, but not sure if that is upper or lower control arms needing a look at.  Need o get my service records out and see when the control arms last replaced, but car is on 215,000, and not as 'tight' as my wifes 4 year old Mazda 2

By the way be interested to hear whether transmission mount makes that much difference when you fit, as I cannot detect any difference in creaks and rumbles from being in gear or coasting, so assume mounts okay(ish) for now

I’ll let you know. I’m coming to the probs obvious one that 22 years in and with some mileage…those bushed parts just need replacing and us drivers get used to a drop off in performance although we might not be happy about it. 
We really get it when we get the car back to original spec…

But it’s that juggle of what to replace and when…mechanic I used to know said if it ain’t broke don’t fix it…that might be too reactive but we don’t want to waste time and money doing pointless work when the objective is effective cost control and sustainability…the latter is not appreciated by government…keeping an old vehicle on the road is absolute sustainability…optimisation particularly if their mileage is low.

🧐😁

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On 3/25/2022 at 7:44 PM, Tinonline said:

Get a bar under the wheel and check for movement for UCA…but what is your mileage and age of vehicle?

I’ll do that thanks, car is a 1998 with 90k. If there is no play in the UCA’s then I’ll carry on with the drop links and maybe remove the struts, strip them down and make sure the rubbers and top mounts are ok, clean/lubricate them and put them back.

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On 3/27/2022 at 8:25 AM, Razor61 said:

I’ll do that thanks, car is a 1998 with 90k. If there is no play in the UCA’s then I’ll carry on with the drop links and maybe remove the struts, strip them down and make sure the rubbers and top mounts are ok, clean/lubricate them and put them back.

Ah so you’re at the same car/similar mileage age etc. as my car. 
Lower control arms can be trouble.

If I get any more knocking or noise it will be the UCAs. They seem to be ok though…

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