Rust spot in paintwork

[Jon Evans]

One of the things I want to avoid with my car is bodywork issues. Mechanical things I have no problem with, but bodywork terrifies me and there’s no point in ending up with a mechanically sound engine and chassis with a rusting hulk of metal sat on top of it.

This weekend I cleaned the car and noticed a few things that need work. The drip moldings / gutter strips that run from the bonnet to the boot look like they’re lifting a bit, and the rubber seal (?) under them doesn’t look great in a few spots. Due to the drivers side molding rubbing against the wing, there is a spot of rust that’s started to appear on the wing.

As well as eventually getting this booked in for a professional to look at, is there anything DIY I can do in the short term to stop the rust from spreading and give me a few months to get it sorted properly? Preferably simple and idiot proof. 🙂  Can I just sand back the rust to clear metal, and put some sort of temporary primer and roughly colour matched top coat on it? Or even do an extremely localised sanding, followed up with a touch-up pen?

There were a few tiny patches of rust around the floor bungs in the boot so I gave them a quick shot of Dinitrol, but I don’t think that’s going to work well or look too great on a visible part of the body.

Related, what’s the forum’s view of a long running “build log” post about the car? Should I create one to keep track of everything I do with it, or is the preference to keep things in separate posts?

[Malc1]

Best wishes with all you're doing to your rare  Ls600 

there’s a few active members that might have “ pointers “ for you 

Malc 

[ambermarine]

You need to get those mouldings off as soon as possible to evaluate the reason for them lifting it may be decomposing vegetation that is swelling with heat and moisture. The seals look perished and the sun as damaged the one with the orange peel texture.

The surface area where these mouldings attach to the body frame is usually well painted and surfaces may need only a light cleaning but you will need to put in new gaskets as those in view are shot.

[Jon Evans]

I have booked a full service at the dealer to "reset" the car, including replacing the sunroof because the seal is shot. They said they would also have a look at the roof trim while it was in. I know it's going to be expensive (the sunroof is!) so I would like to try fettling the existing trim a bit - if I can get them off and clean them up I can take them to get resprayed. Almost certainly the rubber seal isn't available as a separate part.

I will probably order a bunch of clips before I take them off because at least some of them are bound to snap. I don't know if there's anything special about Lexus pop rivets, but they have a specific part number as well! Definitely looks like the sort of job that's worth paying for an hour of access to the workshop manual before I get started.

[ambermarine]

The rubber seals are bought in by Lexus as are most of the components, so as long as you keep the old ones as a reference they can be bought to fit the profile required from aftermarket suppliers.

[Malc1]

20 hours ago, Jon Evans said:

I have booked a full service at the dealer to "reset" the car, including replacing the sunroof because the seal is shot.

you were rich and you're about to become much less so .........  do keep us posted please

Malc