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Front Shocks Problem-- Beware! You'll Go 'nuts'.


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I was replacing my front shock absorbers on my mk4 today. (They've been on 13 years). All was going well until I came to undo the nut on the bottom bolt on the drivers side. No problem, or so I thought. Wrong! It was absolutely seized solid. I even tried using a breaker bar plus a very long pipe extention. It still would not budge. Never known anything like it. I read on a tutorial that the nut should be facing the front, but mine was facing the back(?) .Don't know if this was the reason why it wouldn't budge. Anyway, beware of this pitfall when it comes to changing your shocks. As I don't have access to oxy-acetylene, Iv'e booked it in to my local friendly garage where I get my M.O.T. done. I'm going to get them to fit new anti-roll bar bushes and steering rack doughnut bushes, plus new shock mounts while they're at it. Hoping for a little improvement in the front end. Going over very small ridges I get a slight jarring through the steeing column. Doesn't happen on bigger bumps or potholes though, funny that. Upper and lower ball joints are free of 'play', and both front strut bars are good. So, if you are replacing your 'shockers', just watch out for 'that' nut !!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Brian,

have you had all the work done yet.

I get a similar thing with that vibration on my mK4 (131k miles), not that annoying, but a fair few roads around where I live have these odd ridges - like the man in the road roller was not doing his job quite right.

Still off on a trip to the Wirral over the weekend, so going to see how the car behaves on wide variety of roads.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pete, got the work done today. New shocks on the front, new top mounts, new steering rack bushes and new anti-roll bar bushes. The result? Ultra smooth ride, tighter steering feel and no slight jarring going over ridges in the road. I'm chuffed to say the least. I bought the parts earlier and got the lot fitted for £288 labour. Not too bad I thought. Saved me a lot of time and frustration.

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I had to use heat on one of my shockers to get it freed off. A plumber's MAPP torch (the more expensive one from B&Q + a yellow gas cylinder) is good enough for loosening off stubborn bolts.

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