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Just watched as the counter went past the 100k miles mark! Gulp!

I'm away at present but when I get back I'll have to get the service booked in. Unfortunately there's no Lexus dealership where I live (Isle of Wight). The last service was just after 90k before I bought the car but turns out was not the full service required.

So, any ideas what the 100k full service would be and also is it worth me taking it to Southampton Lexus for it? It's got full lexus history bar the last one.

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I think you'd be wasting your money to go to a Lexus dealer. Be realistic - your car is 7 years old and worth a fraction of its original price. A full Lexus service history is not going to make a hill of beans difference when you trade it in - I assume you're not planning to do that for at least a year (and there's likely no reason to for five years or more).

8 year old cars go straight to auction. (With rare exceptions)

There's nothing special (except change coolant) needed at 100K miles - it's just an interval where 5K, 10K and 20K mile services coincide. Now you need to know what you're doing to change the coolant properly - but there's nothing complicated about it and a good experienced garage should be able to handle it

Do you have a good local garage?

Here's my check list - do this at the intervals stated and your car will most likely go on for years. It's pretty much lifted from Lexus specs - with reduced intervals for oil changes and the addition of brake slider pin maintenance.

Give them the list if you like and discuss it with them.

Most things on a Lexus involve checks - visual inspections in most cases. Many of these are done at MoT time - they are noted below - delete those unless your MoT coincides - don't pay to have the same things inspected twice each year. (assuming average 10K annual mileage)

OK:

Every 5000 miles (Note - half Lexus' recommendation!)

Replace:

Engine Oil 5W-30 Fully Synthetic
Oil Filter

Every 10000 miles / 1 year

Replace Air Conditioning Filter (make sure they know aircon must be in recirculate - or do it yourself - it's dead easy!)

Check:

brake pads & Discs MoT
Washer systems & wiper blades MoT
Tyres MoT
Exhaust and mountings MoT
Steering and suspension components MoT
Brake caliper slider pins - inspect & lubricate
Auxiliary Drive Belt
Lubricate Hinges/Locks
Check all controls and lights
Road test
Reset Service indicator if showing


Every 20000 miles / 2 years

Replace:

Brake Fluid


Check:

(for) Damage and corrosion
Brake Pipes and Hoses MoT
Coolant/Anti-freeze (Replace @ 100000 miles/10 years))
Automatic Transmission Fluid level
Drive Shaft Boots MoT
Brake Pedal & Parking Brake - check & adjust
Battery - condition/security/electrolyte
Underbonnet connections and hoses
Headlight beam adjustment MoT
Seat belts MoT

Every 40000 miles/4 years

Replace:

Air Filter

Every 60000 miles

Replace:

Spark plugs.

The only addition to that list might be to replace the auto transmission fluid (actually you can only change a small proportion of it each time). And possibly diff oil. At 100K miles.

How Lexus get away with charging hundreds of pounds for this list is beyond me - well, I suppose you have to pay for their swish premises!

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johnatg, re. "Every 5000 miles (Note - half Lexus' recommendation!)

Replace: Engine Oil 5W-30 Fully Synthetic Oil Filter "

Ok, agreed. But do we really need to change the oil filter?

On the Honda bikes I've had over the years, I've looked inside the oil filter after changing the oil, nothing there?

Admittedly, nothing like the mileage our cars do.

Can we get away with just siphoning the old engine oil out - like they do in the States?

Argento

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"... .. at least changing the oil gives the main benefit."

I'm pleased that you've said that.

But you're right, the "proper" way is to drain via the sump plug and fit a new filter.

I'm afraid I'm not brave enough to try to get that plastic cover off that shields the underside of the engine.

I also recall that you need a special tool to get the filter off.

Is that right?

Argento

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You don't need to remove the undertray to drain the oil - the sump plug is accessible. Best to drive the car up on to ramps.

There's a hatch to access the oil filter from underneath.

The special filter cover removal tool is strongly advised - the cover is pretty heavy duty alloy and it seems to tighten between oil changes. A general purpose filter removal tool may well damage it. The cover should be torqued to 18ftlbs - your average grease momnkey will do it up to 'FT'. (*** tight)

The special tool is an alloy heavy duty cup wrench (shaped like the pressed tin ones you can buy) but has lugs to engage with the projections on the filter cover. You will recoup its cost with a couple of oil changes compared with using a garage!

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Thanks John, really appreciate the thorough info! I have had a chat with the local garage I use and they are happy to complete some parts and me the rest and they will check it and stamp the book....best of both worlds!

I am trying to find the oil filter tool....any idea where one can be found?

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I've had two issues, seized caliper pins and seized bolts on the lower control arm.

The front and rear bushes also require changing which I'll be doing next.

However... For 100k it's stunning! I've seen many many vehicles with half the miles with much more on the to fix or mend list!

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