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1 minute ago, jackcramerr said:

kenhistu

Did you use a socket or did you directly use a ratchet or breaket bar?

I was about to post this but thought you might be ok... You need a 26inch breaker bar and use a socket. Nothing else works. I have been exactly through what you went. In my case the tool I was using was the wrong one. And I used a 11inch breaker bar without socket. Impacting action broke the.tool. Then I got the correct.tool and used 26inch breaker bar with a scoket. Gentle but firm pressure and it made the filter housing move. 

It is doable with the correct tools. Blame toyota for this terrible design.

I am not a DIY person:yucky:, national tyre autocentre ,they told me, who did oil change in previous service is over tighten the oil cap.

they tried every tools in the store but no luck

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Thats my experience with it. Do.these guy have the right tool? The tool fits like am overlay on the filter housing and cutouts are there for a reason as it leverages against the tabs on the housing. See the pictures in my posts.

With the correct tool they need 26inch breaket bar with a size 24 socket. Its piece of cake then.

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15 minutes ago, jackcramerr said:

See this and compare:

Toyota/Lexus 3.5L V6 Laser 4880 tool is the one I used that worked.

thanks so much for that, I ordered from amazon now. but I will confirm with those guys if they had right tool. but what happens is really over tight the oil cap??

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A word of warning. Wrong tool might ruin the housing fluets. And I cannot insist more on avoiding impacting action and instead using a breaker bar of 26inch and apply steady firm pressure. Can you confirm the fluets are not damaged? People are garages are cowboys. Ask them what tool they used and take a picture of it. 

It should give in. I do not see why it won't. Be patient with it.

Raise the car high up so you have room enough for long breaker bar movement. Be careful with jacking the car and use jack stands and the correct place and wheel blockers. Or if you have ramps, i have heard they are better for oil change...

Someone here will chip in on your answer to if it all fails. I would suggest going to Toyota/Lexus and pay them.

 

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If you use the correct tool and a long breaker bar - even extended with a piece of scaffolding pipe if necessary - the housing cover will turn. Do NOT hammer it - just use steady pressure. In the very worst case, I suppose the housing may break or the fins break off. Then it will need some engineering - cutting and drilling - to remove what's left. Not easy - probably expensive - and you'll obviously need a new cover.

And when you refit the cover - use a torque wrench and do it up to 18ft.lbs.

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Sorry I have been calling it 26inch. its 600mm/ 24inch. This is the tool I got from eBay

SEALEY AK730 BREAKER BAR 600MM 1/2 " SQUARE DRIVE CHROME VANADIUM

13/14 pounds. I have used it for a few jobs now and it has paid itself.

John is the wise one here. You can see how many times we have insisted to avoid hammer action.

 

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I have just changed my oil today - I noticed the spec for tightening the oil filter cap is stamped on the cap housing itself so I took a picture ... picture below ...

Seems to state 25N +/-  5N

IMAG1558.jpg

 

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This is the one I use and have done so with no issue at all since I have owned he car and I have done a lot of oil changes with it ..- pictures below - I am sure I purchased it from eBay but it was a few years ago now ...

IMAG1559.jpg

IMAG1560.jpg

IMAG1561.jpg

IMAG1562.jpg

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17 minutes ago, is200 Newbie said:

This is the one I use and have done so with no issue at all since I have owned he car and I have done a lot of oil changes with it ..- pictures below - I am sure I purchased it from Ebay but it was a few years ago now ...

IMAG1559.jpg

IMAG1560.jpg

IMAG1561.jpg

IMAG1562.jpg

did the tabs fit in... cant explain it better...

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Again the question, when you try fitting the tool, did  the tab went into the cut out. See the picture

I am asuming you used a ratchet or breaker bar instead of a 24 size socket on the tool? Trying to understand how it broke. What length was it ?

20160221_125320.jpg

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6 minutes ago, jackcramerr said:

Again the question, when you try fitting the tool, did  the tab went into the cut out. See the picture

I am asuming you used a ratchet or breaker bar instead of a 24 size socket on the tool? Trying to understand how it broke. What length was it ?

20160221_125320.jpg

I dont really know what happened there, Because they told me to wait at waiting room to get oil changed :withstupid:

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It sounds and looks like the oil filter cap has been overtightened - looking at the damaged removal socket they have used a ratchet to try and remove the cap - nothing wrong with that as I have always used a ratchet with no issues in removing it (and its the same socket as the one I use) - It goes a long way in proving doing the job yourself as you would take more care in the work you do with your car. You would not get a garage to do the work and then check the tightness of the cover afterwards as whats the point, you may have well don't the oil change yourself.

I guess the different designed removal tools with have different weaknesses if applying excessive forces and also consider the oil change interval times - I do mine every 6 months - leaving the intervals for long periods makes more chance of the cap seizing. A rubber seal washer ring that's applied to the cap at each change gives the cap quite a bit of resistance when placing the cap back on after an oil change - it will only get harder to remove over time while the heat is getting to it. The washer rings that I have taken off in the past are all loose (the one I took of today was loose) yet when they go on, they go on tight so the heat must affect them and make it harder to remove.

I would recommend you do an oil change yourself so you can see how easy it is to do.

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I'll just share this with you guys having just had my car serviced by a caring indy

The oil filter was massively over tightened. To quite ridiculous extent. Despite asking that slide pins be greased at last Lexus service the rears were pretty much seized. 

Independant has now successfully greased all slide pins and done oil change. I'll forego my FLSH in the knowledge that my services have been done properly. 

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36 minutes ago, normski2 said:

I'll just share this with you guys having just had my car serviced by a caring indy

The oil filter was massively over tightened. To quite ridiculous extent. Despite asking that slide pins be greased at last Lexus service the rears were pretty much seized. 

Independant has now successfully greased all slide pins and done oil change. I'll forego my FLSH in the knowledge that my services have been done properly. 

Got to agree with the above - not that I use an indie that often but find, when I do, they take more care of your car as they rely more on the repeat custom and if the service is good then that's what they get.

I think the dealers gamble on the fact that people want the work done, in their eyes, correctly with the correct (OEM part), not always the best option when considering compatibility and cost - they are interested in the bottom line .. full stop... the indie relies on repeat business so needs to a good job no matter what the brand is and at a reasonable price. - find a good one and keep them.

Also - tell an indie what a problem is and ask them to fix and they will do it - more than the dealer where they plug it into a machine, no fault found, cars good contrary to what you know (in most cases anyway)

 

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You are probably better with the 600mm. A 750 can be a bit cumbersome in confined spaces and you might find you need to raise the car very high to put a 750 to work. You can always use a piece of scaffold tube or exhaust pipe or whatever to extend the 600 if necessary.

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