Pas Fluid Still Leaking After Replacing "o"ring ?

[sir john]

LEAK FIXED !! Having replaced the metal cooling pipe with copper and replaced the "O" ring my PAS fuid was still leaking. Investigations showed that this time it was from the metal pipes leading to the cooling pipe. Just as they pass through the front pannel of the car behind the OSF headlamp.

If you have an early LS and and it still leaks PAS fluid after a new "O" ring and cooling pipe this might help.

Take out the air filter box.

Disconected the Electrolics plug from the air intake trunking and removed the trunk.

Removed the OSF inner headlamp. 3 screws.

Disconected all PAS pipe clamps, under the airfilter, going to the front of the car.

Removed belly pan to access the( now copper,) PAS cooling pipe and removed it. Keeping the looped cooling pipe vertical will keep it full of fluid. Have a rag and container handy.

Back behind the OSF headlamp, carefully pull the 2 PAS pipes rearwards. The one from the Pump Resevoir is easy. The other, from the steering rack, not see. Mine got a little bent.

These 2 pipes are connected to the front cooling pipe by 2 rubber sections about 8" long.

Only the metal pipe from the reservoir to the cooling pipe was corroded so i left the other in situ.

The corrosion was obvious; all rusty and cruddy where the rubber pipe clamps to it. There were 2 clear holes in it when i iwre brushed the rust off.

I removed the corroded pipe from the Pump Reservoir end so that i could trim it back with a hack saw. About 2" in my case. Pass a piece of soft wire through the pipe from the uncut end to the cut end. Attatch a bit of rag to the wire and pull through like a "pipe cleaner" to remove metal dust. I did this a few times to be sure.

Put the rubber pipe onto the newly cut pipe and carefully feed it through the front pannel of the car. This is the trickiest part and why i had the Inner OSF lamp out. It gives you better access to giude the rubber pipe with a long thin screwdriver through the front of the car.

From underneath the car, reconnect the cooling pipe to the 2 rubber sections.

Because 1 of the rubber pipes is now a couple of inches shorter now i had to move the clamp on the cooling pipe along a bit but it all went back together okay.

Reassemble everything up top. Fill reservior with fluid and allow to settle. Fill again if needed and spin the engine over for a second or 2.

Check for leaks, belly pan back on, and thats it.

No more leaking PAS fluid. Time taken: about 4 hours but i did have to saw one of the clamps off just behind the headlamp.

And i had fun doing it. I always enjoy working on the LS. Hope this helps someone.

[steve2006]

A very nice comprehensive tutorial Sir John I'm sure this will be a great help to all members and one to look out for.

I did notice when I was under my car some time ago there are some pipes which I believe are the same pipes going to the front "cooler section". Where they pass around there was a foam wedge which is to protect the pipes but this foam become soaked with water with the corrosion to follow.

On mine I removed the foam and then dried it out but before refitting I applied a liberal coating of spray on Waxoil to the pipes and to date there have been no problems.

[The-Acre]

LEAK FIXED !! Having replaced the metal cooling pipe with copper and replaced the "O" ring my PAS fuid was still leaking. Investigations showed that this time it was from the metal pipes leading to the cooling pipe. Just as they pass through the front pannel of the car behind the OSF headlamp.

If you have an early LS and and it still leaks PAS fluid after a new "O" ring and cooling pipe this might help.

Take out the air filter box.

Disconected the Electrolics plug from the air intake trunking and removed the trunk.

Removed the OSF inner headlamp. 3 screws.

Disconected all PAS pipe clamps, under the airfilter, going to the front of the car.

Removed belly pan to access the( now copper,) PAS cooling pipe and removed it. Keeping the looped cooling pipe vertical will keep it full of fluid. Have a rag and container handy.

Back behind the OSF headlamp, carefully pull the 2 PAS pipes rearwards. The one from the Pump Resevoir is easy. The other, from the steering rack, not see. Mine got a little bent.

These 2 pipes are connected to the front cooling pipe by 2 rubber sections about 8" long.

Only the metal pipe from the reservoir to the cooling pipe was corroded so i left the other in situ.

The corrosion was obvious; all rusty and cruddy where the rubber pipe clamps to it. There were 2 clear holes in it when i iwre brushed the rust off.

I removed the corroded pipe from the Pump Reservoir end so that i could trim it back with a hack saw. About 2" in my case. Pass a piece of soft wire through the pipe from the uncut end to the cut end. Attatch a bit of rag to the wire and pull through like a "pipe cleaner" to remove metal dust. I did this a few times to be sure.

Put the rubber pipe onto the newly cut pipe and carefully feed it through the front pannel of the car. This is the trickiest part and why i had the Inner OSF lamp out. It gives you better access to giude the rubber pipe with a long thin screwdriver through the front of the car.

From underneath the car, reconnect the cooling pipe to the 2 rubber sections.

Because 1 of the rubber pipes is now a couple of inches shorter now i had to move the clamp on the cooling pipe along a bit but it all went back together okay.

Reassemble everything up top. Fill reservior with fluid and allow to settle. Fill again if needed and spin the engine over for a second or 2.

Check for leaks, belly pan back on, and thats it.

No more leaking PAS fluid. Time taken: about 4 hours but i did have to saw one of the clamps off just behind the headlamp.

And i had fun doing it. I always enjoy working on the LS. Hope this helps someone.

Very helpful, thanks

My cooling pipe is really corroded so I plan to replace it with copper when the weather warms up. Do you know if it's 8mm or 10?

Ta

Phil

[Mybikesacx500]

Very interesting, I have a long term leak, so come better weather, I will check this out

[sir john]

LEAK FIXED !! Having replaced the metal cooling pipe with copper and replaced the "O" ring my PAS fuid was still leaking. Investigations showed that this time it was from the metal pipes leading to the cooling pipe. Just as they pass through the front pannel of the car behind the OSF headlamp.

If you have an early LS and and it still leaks PAS fluid after a new "O" ring and cooling pipe this might help.

Take out the air filter box.

Disconected the Electrolics plug from the air intake trunking and removed the trunk.

Removed the OSF inner headlamp. 3 screws.

Disconected all PAS pipe clamps, under the airfilter, going to the front of the car.

Removed belly pan to access the( now copper,) PAS cooling pipe and removed it. Keeping the looped cooling pipe vertical will keep it full of fluid. Have a rag and container handy.

Back behind the OSF headlamp, carefully pull the 2 PAS pipes rearwards. The one from the Pump Resevoir is easy. The other, from the steering rack, not see. Mine got a little bent.

These 2 pipes are connected to the front cooling pipe by 2 rubber sections about 8" long.

Only the metal pipe from the reservoir to the cooling pipe was corroded so i left the other in situ.

The corrosion was obvious; all rusty and cruddy where the rubber pipe clamps to it. There were 2 clear holes in it when i iwre brushed the rust off.

I removed the corroded pipe from the Pump Reservoir end so that i could trim it back with a hack saw. About 2" in my case. Pass a piece of soft wire through the pipe from the uncut end to the cut end. Attatch a bit of rag to the wire and pull through like a "pipe cleaner" to remove metal dust. I did this a few times to be sure.

Put the rubber pipe onto the newly cut pipe and carefully feed it through the front pannel of the car. This is the trickiest part and why i had the Inner OSF lamp out. It gives you better access to giude the rubber pipe with a long thin screwdriver through the front of the car.

From underneath the car, reconnect the cooling pipe to the 2 rubber sections.

Because 1 of the rubber pipes is now a couple of inches shorter now i had to move the clamp on the cooling pipe along a bit but it all went back together okay.

Reassemble everything up top. Fill reservior with fluid and allow to settle. Fill again if needed and spin the engine over for a second or 2.

Check for leaks, belly pan back on, and thats it.

No more leaking PAS fluid. Time taken: about 4 hours but i did have to saw one of the clamps off just behind the headlamp.

And i had fun doing it. I always enjoy working on the LS. Hope this helps someone.

Very helpful, thanks

My cooling pipe is really corroded so I plan to replace it with copper when the weather warms up. Do you know if it's 8mm or 10?

Ta

Phil

10mm without question. If i had had more time i would have soldered olives to the copper pipe ends and the cut end of the pipe i have just cut down to replicate the original. But the copper cooloing pipe behind the bumper i replaced about 18 months ago without olives and i dont think it has leaked yet.

PS; when bending copper micro bore, "think and then bend". If you have to play about bending and rebending it, it will become hard and brittle very quickely and crack.

[The-Acre]

LEAK FIXED !! Having replaced the metal cooling pipe with copper and replaced the "O" ring my PAS fuid was still leaking. Investigations showed that this time it was from the metal pipes leading to the cooling pipe. Just as they pass through the front pannel of the car behind the OSF headlamp.

If you have an early LS and and it still leaks PAS fluid after a new "O" ring and cooling pipe this might help.

Take out the air filter box.

Disconected the Electrolics plug from the air intake trunking and removed the trunk.

Removed the OSF inner headlamp. 3 screws.

Disconected all PAS pipe clamps, under the airfilter, going to the front of the car.

Removed belly pan to access the( now copper,) PAS cooling pipe and removed it. Keeping the looped cooling pipe vertical will keep it full of fluid. Have a rag and container handy.

Back behind the OSF headlamp, carefully pull the 2 PAS pipes rearwards. The one from the Pump Resevoir is easy. The other, from the steering rack, not see. Mine got a little bent.

These 2 pipes are connected to the front cooling pipe by 2 rubber sections about 8" long.

Only the metal pipe from the reservoir to the cooling pipe was corroded so i left the other in situ.

The corrosion was obvious; all rusty and cruddy where the rubber pipe clamps to it. There were 2 clear holes in it when i iwre brushed the rust off.

I removed the corroded pipe from the Pump Reservoir end so that i could trim it back with a hack saw. About 2" in my case. Pass a piece of soft wire through the pipe from the uncut end to the cut end. Attatch a bit of rag to the wire and pull through like a "pipe cleaner" to remove metal dust. I did this a few times to be sure.

Put the rubber pipe onto the newly cut pipe and carefully feed it through the front pannel of the car. This is the trickiest part and why i had the Inner OSF lamp out. It gives you better access to giude the rubber pipe with a long thin screwdriver through the front of the car.

From underneath the car, reconnect the cooling pipe to the 2 rubber sections.

Because 1 of the rubber pipes is now a couple of inches shorter now i had to move the clamp on the cooling pipe along a bit but it all went back together okay.

Reassemble everything up top. Fill reservior with fluid and allow to settle. Fill again if needed and spin the engine over for a second or 2.

Check for leaks, belly pan back on, and thats it.

No more leaking PAS fluid. Time taken: about 4 hours but i did have to saw one of the clamps off just behind the headlamp.

And i had fun doing it. I always enjoy working on the LS. Hope this helps someone.

Very helpful, thanks

My cooling pipe is really corroded so I plan to replace it with copper when the weather warms up. Do you know if it's 8mm or 10?

Ta

Phil

10mm without question. If i had had more time i would have soldered olives to the copper pipe ends and the cut end of the pipe i have just cut down to replicate the original. But the copper cooloing pipe behind the bumper i replaced about 18 months ago without olives and i dont think it has leaked yet.

PS; when bending copper micro bore, "think and then bend". If you have to play about bending and rebending it, it will become hard and brittle very quickely and crack.

Excellent, thanks.

[Manc]

Ahhh the memories..... the cooling pipe was the 1st job i'd ever done on a car myself.... well 2nd after the o-ring replacement failed to stop the leak...

mine was the fig.of 8 pipe down below the fan as you open the bonnet....

Easy job if anyone planning it themselves, done in a lazy afternoon with a few teabreaks....