The Transporter

When you turn th dob to demist, the fan will run at a higher speed and turn on the air conditioner to help dry the condensation...

Stuart, I have never liked the idea of fitting what ammounts to a packing shim between the hub and the wheel, you double the number of joints that could allow the wheel to be slightly off center, no matter how small the tolerance.... The wheel itself sits on a very narrow spigot and adding a shim increases the chances of the wheel not sitting right...

I believe that the forum has a resident LPG specialist somewhere but straight sixes are no different to any othey type of engine though I believe that the IS does benefit from being fitted with a flash lube kit fitted.....

Surly you are putting a lot more strain on the axle components and wheelbearings...

Jesus, those look like my eyes the morning after a skin full

The Beemer angel eyes always give me the willies.....They remind me if the Mysterons...

Sounds like the previous owner thrashed it hard and never bothered with maintainance....Fortunately he managed to get rid before it fell over.... Even the newest IS is 8 years old now so they are getting on a bit but the nice thing is that the IS is easy to work on and pretty cheap for spares..

Ah! The solution to your problem would be to velcro your daughter to the rear seat.... No more pulling the hand brake and no more irritating bong... :shifty:

Sticky brake cable Perhaps?

Can't tell you if it is safe for you to drive or not, you'll have to have a look for yourself, a rubbing noise could be one of a number of things....Could be a bit of trim lose and rubbing on the tyre, broken spring rubbing on the tyre, worn brake pads (They are designed to give an audiable warning) worn wheel bearing, you could have road debris jammed somewhere it can rub on a tyre or a stone jammed in your brakes........My money is on worn brake pads

Result! :hocus-pokus:

Timing chains are great 'till they need changing. I'm dreading having to do the one on the van.... Glad that the turbo didn't kill the engine. At 200 quid you got off lightly!........Have you considered a nice Jeep?... :winky:

Is the Saab up and running again? Ray

Ray, just sweep that Scaab up with a brush and dust pan and tip it into next doors wheelie bin.....

Ha! I used to do a lot of automotive air con work.... I used to love debadged cars, watch the owners face drop when you ask the owner of a BMW 5 series what type of 3 series their car is.

Usually the cheaper brand after market discs are the culprit. As has been said some have a coating to protect against corrosion but some don't.... I bought the cheaper rear discs a couple of years ago (I needed them in a hurry) and whaen I removed the wheels to be powder coated I noted quite a bit of corrosion on them.....Although I really hate the shop, Halfords are handy on a Sunday and have a set of three rotary wire brushes, two fit into drills and one will fit onto a 5 inch angle grinder.... This is really great for cleating up the top hat section and took the disc back to bright metal in minutes (Although I'm not a big fan of Health and safety even I wore safety goggles for this job).... I agree with others about not needing a high temperature paint I opted to use Halfords own high temperature paint in metallic black (Which i in reallity a dark grey) Mainly because I liked the colour and plan to use it on my log burner in the living room. I had initially thought that the paint may be a little porous and allow the disc to rust again but a few weeks on all seems good....

I think that Andrew page used to be the people who supplied the motor factors and have now decided to sell direct if you have an account so some useful savings to be made..

Check the tension and condition of the PS drive belt.... It is not uncommon on a damp morning for the IS to do this

An uncommonly good price..... Happy days!

I don't know 'cos I've never needed to do the job on my Lexus but the kit was about 600 quid for my VW Transporter.... Someone here will know though and be able to give you a better understanding of what is best to replace....I always replace everything inside the bell housing (Unless it's a single mass flywheel) as the biggest part of the job is taking the gearbox out...So you may as well replace what you can when you can

New clutch time then... Change the cover, friction plate and the thrust bearing... And I'd be inclined to replace anything else in the bell housing that moves too (Possibly slave cylinder if it can't be changed without removing the gearbox) and some might say replace the flywheel as it is a Dual mass thingy... Straight forward job to do but the parts may cost a bob or two

Are you sure it is the clutch? Brakes have a similar odour.... Is the clutch slipping?

No, it was a Sunday afternoon so I had no bits so I simply stripped the caliper and gave it a good cleaning... Sticky callipers are common on Jeeps too. I think that we have to establish if it is the piston or the sliders that are the issue.... I did have an issue a few years ago with a rear calliper rubbing on the inside of the disc, turns out that it was just road gunge and corrosion on the outside not allowing the calliper to slide so a new set of pads and discs and a good clean up with a good dose of copperslip was all that was needed

Not had any issues with the lexus bu I recently had a sticking calliper on my Jeep... Took it off and stuck it on the bench, popped the piston out, cleaned up, free off the bleed nipple, grease the sliders and rebuild... been happy ever since.

Pah! What a faff.... Having to get out, open the boot and switch them on just so you can reverse..... :winky: