The Transporter

Absolutely!..... I have managed to get 9mpg out of the Jeep but with a little work, I'm sure that I can get 8mpg.

I have just the thing to sort German boilers...... Got a big hammer too

Brill.... Has that funny noise stopped?

Ray, do you think that you will be able to fit me in to have my hair styled...... :winky:

It's probably worth a fortune if your name is IXI 662

What is the speedo calibrated in..... MPH or KPH?

It'll help you keep fit walking when you get a flat..haha thanks. Truth is I live 3 miles from work so would quite happily walk lol. Wont go anywhere far without it. Im just seeing anyway, didnt realise how heavy it was ubril I took it out the other day In which case your engine is barely getting warm and a large portion of your trip to work is with the car running on cold start, dumping large quantities of fuel into the cylinders..... Less weight will always help but I don't think that you would notice the missing spare 'till you need it.. If you felt the weight of the seats and trim you would have a fit!.....Those doors are pretty hefty too. :hehe:

I doubt that you would notice the difference but to my mind, a thicker oil at higher temperatures is better, and will keep better oil pressure and in cold weather is unoticable too.... If you look at the operating teperature range of 5w30 and 10w40 then for the UK 10w40 is the correct choice.... If I lived in Scandinavia then 5w30 would be the better choice as it gets pretty cold there

It'll help you keep fit walking when you get a flat..

The quantum longlife is good oil but the long life nonsesce is simply a bone thrown to the tree huggers to give the impression that 18k miles on a VW is a good thing. ... I tend to use long life in my van but change it at 10k It is and alway will be my opinion that 5w30 is still a bit thin for the IS200 but is the preferred lube for the IS300 but plenty use 5w30 and are happy with it... I use 10w40 in the lex as it is more suitable for British weather all year round

The oil is the wrong grade. Yes it would be worthwhile changing the brake/ clutch fluid if it hasn't been done.. Manual gearbox and axel should be replaced every two years.

There is only one pully but two camshafts..

Go get 'em!! It may be the way that their system itemises the timing belt tensioner but it is worth checking...

Chain tensioner?

Your franchised dealer isn't the be all and end all.... Plenty of good independants who can do the job just as well and for a fair bit less.... Glad you are all sorted

Jack and support the rear of the car so that you can get underneath to the diff..... If the diff casing is anything like the non LSD casing then stick a shallow tray under the diff and remove the plug at the bottom of the diff and allow the lubricant to drain.... I'm guessing that like the non LSD the plug will have a little magnet to collect swarf, so clean that with a cloth.... Once drained, refit the plug and remove the filler plug which should be on the side of the diff about half way up..... clean that off and refill the diff with the correct grade lubricant (SAE 90 GL5 for lim slip diffs) The diff is full when the lube is up to the level of the filler and a small quantity of lube trickles out. Refit plug, wipe any surplus lube from casing, lower car to the ground and go and have a cup of tea... Tips, you may find that the filler is tricky to get to, so buy your oil in a bottle with a spout and short length of filler tube.... I have an old one in the garage for such an occasion. If the lube is cold and thick, stand it in some warm water for a little while to make it thinner and it will flow a little better. Dispose of your old lube by pouring it into a bottle and taking it down to your local recycling area and don't pour it down the drain. Shove some cardboard under the work area to ensure that the oil doesn't spill onto your drive and stain it Use axle stands not bricks to support your car as instant death MAY occur Use a dedicated oil pan for collecting the oil and not your wifes grill pan as instant death WILL occur

The four grades are what Lexus recommmend depending on the operating conditions of the vehicle 20w50 for ambient temps from -7 to above 38 celsius 15w40 for ambient temps from about -11 to above 38 celsius 10w 30 for ambient temps from -18 to above 38 celsius or 5w30 for ambient temps from below -29 to 10 degrees. There is no requirement to use fully synthetic lubricant but it is a good thing to change your lube at the stated intervals

Engine oil 20w50 or 15w40.... Or 10w30 or 5w30 with auto trans 3.8 litres or 3.9 litres with manual Manual Gearbox API GL 4 or 5 75w90 2 litres or 'till it drips from the filler Axel Without LSD 1.05 litres of API GL5 SAE90 or until the oil drips from the axle filler The manual suggests that the same oil is to be used with LSD but I find that a little surprising and should be checked Brake fluid Dot 3 brake fluid..... Replace whatever comes out Water 6.6 litres assuming you don't have the towing pack.. Best to fill it till all the air is out and correct to the right level

I'm normally very critical of stuff like this (All VAG cars should have their DRLs removed with a road hammer, and what is all this guff with one lamp going out when they indicate, do they all have defective electrics?) but what Koko has done is really nice and works well.... I'm impressed

I don't think that I can see a problem with using central heating flush agent like Sentinal x800 as it is designed to be used in systems that incorporate aluminium radiators and heat exchangers but I would say not to leave it in too long as it would be pretty concentrated in a cars system as opposed to a central heating system with a couple of hundred litres of water in them..

There is something satisfying about doing a job like that where the result is you car feels nice to drive again and you have saved a whole hill of cash.... Brilliant!

One of my Jeeps came fitted with Nigger glass and in the evening you couldn't see a bloody thing so the tint was removed pronto... I have noticed an increase in the number of cars with tinted windows cutting other cars up on motorways.... Presumably because their visabillity has been reduced.... Make sure that you are fully comp. Yes, LEDs seem to be the future, the head torch that I wear for work is incredible but when the lamp is dimmed it does give some odd effects due to the way that the lamp dims....It seems that the lamp is puled on and off rapidly and although stationary objects are illuminated well, moving objects can appear to be viewed as if illuminated by a strobe lamp..

Serious Cheese!

But Knobby.... I have had an IS300.... My 200 has full leather, armrests, satnav and the better six speed manual.... I can only speak for myself but I can have virtually any car that I wish and for me the 200 is the perfect choice as it is rugged, good looking, easy and cheap to work on and reliable..... I guess that if Matt wanted a 300 then he would have bought a 300 and I know that Ray is looking for his Ideal BMW because neither the 200 nor the 300 suit his purposes....

They are Carp... Very little useful info and they never tell you how to acess that bolt that is inaccesible or how to dismantle the pipe connector when you haven't got the correct tool on a Sunday afternoon... You have to figure it out yourself..