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Geoffers

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Everything posted by Geoffers

  1. If you wanted to try and mold your own housing, try some "Polymorph". It is a mouldable plastic when heated above 62 degrees C. You can get it at Maplin. HERE I use it for allsorts and it's tough. Left myself open for every crude comment you can think of there...............
  2. Look the part don't they. Notice the blue glow around the whole of the door, not just the bottom?
  3. Did it still have 2.8v in when you pressed the transmit key or was the battery out when you tested it? Under load it usually drops dramatically. Hopefully it's just that. If you've tested the cables to the speakers, and the speaker itself, it sounds like one of the output transistors has gone duff. (I assume you've already checked the blanace and fader controls) I have an IS so have little experience of the amps in your car, but if you can get the amp out and look at the output transistor (usualy a large chip that has a small bolt holding them to the outer case) I can probably source one for you. If Poss, check there is an input signal to it first so we know it's definately gone. Get me the number and I can tell you where to trace for an input to it.
  4. Really easy to install. There is a excellent workshop article on fitting them Here You don't have to drill the chassis for the cable though, see Here You can fit the display above the B pillar so it's by the passengers head but won't really be seen other than by you when you turn around. Wildrness has fitted his in the armrest box Or above your ashtray as Here Or actually in your Ashtray as Here Or above your mirror as Here
  5. Ever jumped before? The second jump is the worst. The first one you are just nervous, not really knowing what you're going to feel. With second one, you have all the usual anticipation as with the first, except you know what it's going to be like. After that it's plain sailing (or floating should I say)
  6. Education isn't a crime. Knowing how to bypass a system isn't breaking the law. I'm certain the club and the all of it's members understand the consequences of speeding and no-one condones it. I think the major issue is the difference between speeding and breaking the speed limit. Just to contradict myself, the way the law is in this country we are actually guilty of 'conspiring' already.
  7. Click on the link above your text marked "IMG". This will allow you to enter the URL for the image. This will display it inline with your text. Or Click on the "http://" link and post the URL of where your piccies are and this will be displayed as a link with your text.
  8. Has anyone put them to a true test from a greater angle? They always look good at the demo's. I tried a few things a while ago. (Hair spray, etc - vanish stain remover was very good but it washed away when wet) and although it worked great from head on and about 15 degrees either way, anything greater and it still showed everything clearly. (Angle of refraction and reflection and all that). I can't remember the exact angles now, but it has to work within 30 degrees horizontally from the road and roughly 45 degrees or so vertically at the first flash, then a lower depending on your speed at the second flash 0.7 seconds later. A radar detector I think is the best bet. As for lasers, they are (at the mo) using light in the infra-red part of the spectrum and rely on the refletive part of the number plate. (Which is why they aim at the reg plate for the laser as the body isn't usually refective enough). I know it's not illegal to emit IR at the front of the vehicle, which play hell with the radar receivers, so if you had IR emitters at the front of the vehicle around the reg plate........ Although it is illegal to purposefully attempt to obscure your plate in any part of the light spectrum, IR emitters are used to look ahead further than visible light. As the surface absorbing the light changes the frequency slightly, it becomes visible and therefore allows you to see further without distracting other drivers by emitting a very bright beam. If detected, and you were accused of deliberately obscurring your plate, I would imagine it would be hard for a conviction as it could be argued that the IR emitters were used not to obscure your reflective plate, but for increased visibility as IR is not illegal. Just a thought.
  9. Except Auto's don't forget. It is possible that it may have one of those long metalic sensors that are behind the bumper, but it doesn't sound like it with the pitch not changing. Seems like it's just the manual reverse beep I'm afraid. Welcome to the club anyway Reg.
  10. Yep - we're all clubbing together to buy Mat a car. Have a look.
  11. Oh wow - I did exactly the same thing with my beeb !!!!! Sad really isn't it.... thought it was cool at the time though.
  12. You can't get better than that now can you? Believe me, Duncan knows what he's talking about and I'd back him up on it anytime.
  13. £85 quid !!!!! You could make it yourself for less than £20 using ultrabright LEDS (red, green white, torquoise, Blue, amber). You'd only need to make a decent housing for it. Why have I just said that..........
  14. Lexus Liverpool have gone a lot better since splitting (although not entirely) from the combined Toyota dealership. I didn't get a bunch of flowers though........ Actually, with the deal I got, I don't think they could have afforded the flowers out of the profit. I won't say enjoy the car because I know you will...... congrats.
  15. I know exactly what you mean. I always buy Black cars and this happens on every single one unless the polishing is done properly. I'm on my second black Lexus and you won't have this problem if it's polished properly. A good buffing should remove these marks. (It did on my Honda)
  16. I may be reading this wrong, but don't put the + from each light to the same relay. (It will act as a big resistor with just your sidelights on and try and light the main beam.) + that feeds each light goes to one side of the coil of each of the 2 relays. The second side of each coil goes to earth. (You can pick the light feeds from either side). So... The +sidelight light feed goes to one side of the coil on the normal open relay, and the other side of the coil to earth. The +main light feed goes to one side of the coil on the normally closed relay, and the other side of the coil to earth.
  17. Oh, if anyone is interested - this is what I mean't by my alternating fogs : I only use them off road of course but I imagine they would make people back off when they are right up your backside on the motorway....... (I'll post the circuit if anyone wants it)
  18. Reading the thread, both are correct. The sensor is there, but there is also space for a switch. (I've have my alternating fog switch there). The sensor lives slightly to the right. The blank itself has plenty of space behind it. Ok, for the demons to come on with the sidelight switch (but not the sidelights bulbs), the easiest way to do it would be with a relay to switch the demons on, and pop out the bulbs or take the lead off to the sidelights - you can then just connect back on if needed. At 35w per lamp, I would take a new positive feed (ideally from the battery, as you will be doing all this in the engine compartment anyway.) Because you'll be taking a seperate feed, you will need two relays. One switches the Demons on when the side lights are on, the second disconnects the power when the main beam is on. You will need one normally open relay, and one normally closed (or changeover relay). (Before everybody jumps on this asking why I'm doing it this way and not using dual coil relays, transistors, diodes, etc, I'm trying to make it simplest way to wire up!!!) To wire up the relays : Here you'll see that when you put the steering column switch to the first position, the first relay closes allowing current to pass to the demons as the second relay is already closed. When you switch on the main lights, the second relay opens, so disconnects the power to the demons. The relays you need can be bought from any motor factors, or Maplin (Codes : RG11M, RG13P) You can put a switch in as well if you want to to manually control the lights but there shouldn't be a need doing it this way.
  19. Hmmmm Depends on how you want to do it. You could just have them on with the sidelights Have them come on instead of the sidelights - the easiest way would be to take the low wattage bilbs out. I see your point about not being on all the time - you can put a relay in so the Demons switch off when the main lights are on. Whichever way you do it, you can always have the switch in to switch them off for MOT, etc.
  20. The only way you could run these completely seperately is to tap into the live (as above). If you wanted the switch to work when the lights or fogs are on, you can take it off the feeds to the lights, but the lights would have to be on first.. i.e. no lights or fogs then no demons. What is the wattage of the lamps in the demon eyes? If they are the standard dichroics then I'm assuming 20w each, but can you check this as you may need a relay anyway if you are taking it from your dips as the loom and fuse won't support the extra power. Either way, I could draw you a little diagram, but really need you to be quite specific on extractly when you want them to work. I'm not being picky, it's just that it's quite important. They do look the dogs undercarrage though - You've done a smart job there. Where did you get them from? How much? Not sure about JAE - the joys of being self employed. I may just turn up if I can.
  21. As you'll have the knee guard off under the steering wheel (Where the switch blank is) you'll see a large thick white wire with a red stripe. Tap into that and all will be fine. This is a big feed so make sure you use a seperate fuse for the demon eyes. It's a pernanent 12v so you'll have to drop a relay in if you want it ignition controlled. If not, just use your switch.
  22. Yep, just ordered a TDA8362 signal processor chip to help with the project. This will support NTSC as well for our American friends if all goes well. Watch this space......
  23. Go on then..... £20 and I'll throw in a free mirror closure that works on high speed for extra dynamics...............
  24. If you've tried all the usual, (removing the fuse causing a full reset, etc) looks like you'll have to take the unit out. You can then take off the top cover to the changer without taking it out of it's holding frame. In there you will see your CD's. Most likely a disc has completely slipped from one of the lugs on it's holder. They tend to slip off the rear ones - they were simply too small. Carefully prise up the disc back onto the lug with a small, long screwdriver. The disc's can now re-juggle to their home positions.
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