Geoffers

We'll have to agree to differ on this one. I'm in the game and have been for many years. Reading a signal from an alarm is completely different from having the alarm control an add-on. The circuit reads the condition of the alarm and acts appropriately. I can't disagree about bringing potential implications to peoples attention as this is always wise. If people are interested in carrying a seperate remote keyfob for it, then post it here - I can easily set it for that instead of the alarm trigger.

I've used Kerrigans a few times with my previous cars. Always been pleased with them. My Honda was black which seems to show everthing and I was more than impressed - you couldn't tell as they'd blended it in perfectly. They are insurance approved by many companies too. They are off Vauxhall Road. Can't remember the number right now - I'll dig it out.

Not necessarily so. Electronically, it doesn't automatically invalidate the Thatcham rating. As for your insurance company, well that could be a different story. It may say in your contract that any additions to the alarm require thatcham approved equipment. There is a lot of equipment out there that connects to the accessory wire that ISN'T Thatcham approved, but most insurance companies don't even look at. (Proximity detectors are the biggest offenders of this) If this isn't in your contract but they still try to get out of it, they would have to prove that the alarm hadn't triggered. Without being at the scene, they wouldn't know. Then they would have to decide if the additional electronics caused the malfunction. The biggest thing though is the insurance company probably wouldn't even know it was fitted. (I'm not condoning anyone trying to pull the wool over the eyes of an insurance company here). Unless the assesor has any electronics knowledge, the unit wouldn't be detected. It would be difficult to even measure the current drain as it is edge triggered (using a 100nf capacitor). After the capacitor has charged, it isn't technically connected to the alarm. (Less than 100 milliseconds). This would be lost in the startup of the microwave sensors. As it effects no other part of the alarm system in any way. (See my point on worst case scenario). Then the thieves would have got the car either way as they must have used other equipment to bypass the rest of the security device/transponder, etc. which the insurance companies take a much greater interest in. Ultimately, it's the owners choice based on the benefits.

£20 sounds about right. He isn't making any money on you at all there - that's roughly how much they cost me to make. The box size I use is 85mm x 55mm x 30mm which is plenty. (about £1.30 from Maplin or CPC) You can bring them out on bare wires and just connect up, but I would use at least a 5amp connector block so you can easily disconnect it if you want to.

The circuit is EDGE triggered by the microwave sensor power feed of the alarm, not the alarm ECU itself. I've been very careful over it for that very reason. They wouldn't have a leg to stand on if they had their technical advisors to look it over. I would willingly argue in any court that this will not affect it's operation in any way. Even in a worse-case scenario and the line was shorted directly to earth by a real bad installer, it would only disable the microwave snsor not the current sensing or engine shut off, transponder lock out, etc.

"BODGE" ?? Very constructive comment Chip. Nice way of making friends. Electronics are electronics. Providing they are within specified limits and tolerances, what's the difference between a commercial unit and making one up yourself if you build to specification and standard? Even the mighty Clifford started somewhere making small units. Looking at the bigger picture, we are all helping each other to modify our cars the way we want them to be. With all the other mods and information available on this site, people have saved thousands of pounds in all, not just a couple of hundred quid on a new alarm. Nobody posts these projects without testing them for a reasonable length of time. Also, not everybody has money for every mod. This, like others, is providing an alternative cost effective way of achieving more mods for the available cash.

Within the documentation, you will see there are 2 options. One is to build it completely from scratch, the other is to use a commercial timer with a seperate relay. (These can be bought from alarm shops and auto stores). If you have no electronics experience, I would suggest using a commercial timer. Providing you follow the diagrams exactly then you won't have a problem. If you are unsure though, it is always wise to ask someone who has a little experience to give you a hand. If there are any auto alarm shops near you, I'm sure you could come to a deal. It takes half an hour to install. (If that)

If you have the unit out, you can take off the top cover to the changer without taking it out of it's holding frame. In there you will see your CD's. If it is this bad, most likely a disc has slipped from one of the lugs on it's holder. They tend to slip off the rear ones - they were simply too small. Carefully prise up the disc back onto the lug with a small, long screwdriver. The disc's can now re-juggle to their home positions. Hope this helps,

The total closure will be an easy add on. You won't need to cut into any wires, just add to them (with a scotchblock or similar). It will connect to the mirror closure unit and to the window ECU (The yellow box in the footwell). So far, I have it closing the three windows but the drivers side is slightly tricky due to the electronics of the auto function, and the bad weather because I haven't been able to get out and spend some time on it. The first thing you need installed though is the mirror closure unit as everything stems from this. I take it you're doing yours today........?

It's like a compulsive addiction isn't it? Just like you HAVE to log onto this site at least a few times a day.........!

Same here - mine is more like a "ppssshhhhhh" type sound. It's exactly as Fluff says, just the valve opening uo to relieve the pressure. Some are just worse than others. My last IS was quite loud.

Cheers mate ! Anyone else made them? Kev - how are you getting on with your build - did you look into surface mount? Zee - Wilderness not heard anything - how are you getting on with them? Anyway, so far I have 3 of the side windows on Auto, just having a bit of trouble with the drivers side. This is because I'm controlling them from the window ECU so no extra power sources will need to be tapped into or any cable runs into the door or anything. Shouldn't be long now. Will be easy to connect to the mirror closure.

It's Here Tony. Have a go - it's worth it. You will be able to add the full closure on easily. You need the mirror closure as a base to work from. Sanj - how are you getting along with your build? Duncan has finished the full closure including that tilt and slide on the sunroof. It's very impressive.

Me too - I work and I paid for my Lexus..... I'm ashamed of myself.

Funny you should say that - there was a shop by where I grew up that used to store parafin right next to the Fry's chocolate creams. They had a very distinct taste of parafin. When I moved away, they just didn't seem as nice............! My sister also told be that if I played with my belly button too much I'd bleed to death. I wouldn't go near it after that and used to cry my eyes out when I was forced to wash it!

As a kid, my dad took me the the airport to watch the planes. Looking through the binoculars, he pointed them across the river at the Shell plant. I was asking him why there was a flame coming out of a tall chimney. Instead of telling me they burn off poisonous and excess gasses, he told me that it was the "Life Flame" - if ever it went out, the world would come to an end. For years, every time it rained heavy or was very windy I was petrified..........

I fitted these onto my mums car about 8 months ago and they aren't too bad really. There are three leds which are useless, but the beeping tones can be relied on once you've worked out the distances they are set at. There are only 2 ultrasonics so you can't mount them too close to the corners as they pick up things alongside and there is no way of distinguishing which one is triggering. The accuracy isn't fantastic but they do the job quite well really all in all. No where near as good as Quannan, but for £24.......... Don't know what they'll be like this time next year though.

There was a write up about it in the paper. Apparently, they are all Accord parts, some with added weights to balance. (The tires going up the ramp has very heavy weights in for example.) Alledgedly, no animination or computer generated tricks. Six million quids worth of advert, the full version lasting 2 minutes.

"HAD" must be the name of a person - Smith, where Jones had had "had", had had "had had". "had had" had had the examiner's approval. ?

Duncan - there is a white/blue lead that connects driectly to the digital speedo. I assume removing this would disable speed check. The only thing is though, it uses your speed to get a rough idea where you are when it can't lock onto any sats. I go through the Mersey tunnel quite often and it's very accurate as to where I am. Worth a try though.

Grim - this one has done my head in. When you say it makes sense once punctuated, does that mean you add your own quotes and commas - not just use the sentence "as is"?

Yeah - I'll probably put it there. Just wanted to try something different.

Not sure. Maybe if the colour matched better?

Cheers Gord - got mine today too.

Duncan - you're dead right. The other good thing about that is when the relay shuts off the stereo, it comes back on at the same place your CD was at. (The phone always rings at a good bit......) You can expand on that too and have another relay inline with one of the speakers so it switches over to the output of the car kit amp. Plan on doing this myself when I've got the time............