Geoffers

Cheers. So far so good. I've had it on since friday and absolutely hammered it. Everything is fine so far.......

Alarm still fine. The relay physically disconnects the leads that come from the distribution board so there is literally only power to the mirrors and no back feed into the vehicle system. The switch is a mechanical changover so effectively all I'm doing is the changover before it hits the switch. Here's a quick diagram of the relay when it is in the timed closure position. The relay then shuts off returning the connections to their original state. This also means that if the unit is switched off or ever fails, it's home position allows the mirrors to function normally. The connection to the alarm is through a diode and capacitor so there is no remf there either.

Good point - that one annoys me too but I never thought about it.

Which one would you rather have a go of......

On the IS, the power is also cut with the ignition off. This is why I've put a timer on to add power for about 5 secs. (slightly over the time really needed for the closure.) Also, on the IS, there should be no reason why the mirrors would get out of sync because they open and close with polarity. (Pos=close, Neg=open). I've taken the main feed before the point it splits for the mirrors, emulating the voltages present when you operate the switch with the ignition on. I was about to post my diagram but I'll hold off for now until I've tested it for longer. I've been hitting it quite a lot over the weekend so I'll just keep doing this for another few weeks. Try and have a think what your problems were and the methods you used and post ASAP please. I'm grateful for any info/problems/constructive critisism on this. swz-lexus - where did you connect to the mirrors on your closure? I've used the supply feeds in the footwell harness as it comes out of the door feed connector. (white/black stripe+silver spots & Grey/silver spots) HERE Oh, by the way - got rid of the first issue of them closing when the door lock switch is presssed a few times. It was just a trigger pulse getting picked up - I've changed a cap.

I was thinking that too Mitch - still have the IE / kazaa problem? Have you tried installing IE6 with the service pack yet? (Kazaa lives on the 'back' of IE using some of it's support files). There are quite a few differences in 6 and a full install often replaces or re-registers bad DLL's Just a thought..... Matt - should be around after next week or so. Still on for lunch one day at the Village?

I wanted it on keyfob because I usually walk away from the car thinking "Did I lock it then...." Now I just glance back and if the mirrors are closed I know I have! Everybody - let me know - I can do them on ignition key removal if people want it. (That is actually a lot easier.) Can't make Gaydon this time round. Bummer. (Family stuff - can't get out of it), If we do the mini meet around Chester in April I'll be there.

I think one of the problems is that the media aren't letting us know enough of the atrocities happening because of this dictatorship. We all have an idea, but not enough is reported. We are living cushy lives here and because we don't see what's going on, it's too easy to be opinionated on other issues. I'm sure if we knew more about this then opinion may change.

Just keeping those who are interested informed. The auto mirror close on alarm set is now on test. Set the alarm on the keyfob and the mirrors close fine. Costs about £20 to make and about 30mins to fit. Everything is behind the driver side kickplate so you don't need to break into the door. There are two small issues though. Due to the signal that activates them, there are other conditions that cause the mirrors to close : 1. If you press the door unlock switch in the door several times in succession, it triggers the mirrors to close. They open up again straight away if the key is in the ignition. 2. If you use the keyfob to open the boot, it triggers the mirrors. Again, if the key is in the ignition they open straight up again. This is only because of the trigger I've had to use - I just cannot find an alarm trigger for them. For now, I've taken it off one of the central locking feeds. These are only minor issues but irritating - at least it gets the unit on test though. I've been doing it blindly but I should have the manual shortly, so as soon as I can find a suitable trigger it will be complete. Just to be geeky - here is a small video of it working HERE

If you have the book stamped as a 20k service then that is your proof as far as you are concerned, even though this may not have taken place. (Which they have now admitted.) I would ask for a 20k service to be performed, at the price of a 30k. You have it in writing that a 20k was done. You will never know which one they do though, even if they agree to it. I've lost faith in a few dealers anyway....

Nice one! I was the same...... it would be pretty sad if you DIDN'T feel like a 5yr old on xmas eve......

Illegal and unjust. Will world stability be a result? Yeah right. I agree that Saddam must be taken out of power, but to destroy so many innocent lives? Apart from living a poor quality of life already because of him, a lot are going to suffer even more as a result of this. It's not only the amount of people killed as a result of the bombs, it's the knock-on effect that lasts for years afterwards. They should have taken him and his cronies out when it was more justifiable all those years ago. Outside of the destruction in Iraq, there are already enough organisations around the world that already touch on fanatical and this will push them over the edge. These WILL retaliate in the name of 'attacks on Iraq'. The worst thing is, the terrorists won't target Bush, Blair or military installations because they're protected. We're the ones who will be targeted on the airlines we fly on and the underground we travel on. We're the ones that will be made to suffer as a consequence of this totally irrational war. Iraqi people mostly, and the west for our aggression. What really bothers me is that the rest of the UN are committed if Hussein launches a chemical attack. I don't believe he is stupid enough to do this, but if chemicals do "appear" to be used then it could be argued that the war then is justifiable. Would anyone fabricate the use of chemicals as an excuse to justify there actions in a "told you so" scenario? That's never happened before has it...? If this was the case and Iraq was accused of using them, after that point he probably would if the world is convinced he is using them anyway. The long term effects of that could be felt in many countries with atmospheric spread, apart from the poor people affected directly. (Remember agent Orange? People are still affected even now.) The possibilities are endless. The consequences could be worse. I don't know what the answer is, but it isn't a war. Take care Mat.

I'm looking at the P800 also. Same story with the SPV - sent mine back as well. I was told that the car kit is bluetooth and also plugs in but for power and antenna only. I believe it works with the T68 car kit too.

No, unfortunately I can't make Gaydon this time round. Annoying thing is I've been working between Oxford and London on contract so it wouldn't have been that far. Been away from home quite a bit lately so I'll have to give it a miss. I have quite a few ideas on the go at the moment - the main one being the mirror closure which I completed at the weekend and will be posting here shortly. (Just need to neaten everything up - you know what it's like when you're prototyping!). Next is the full closure. You have any ideas on the go?

Putting in thicker cables isn't going to give you any more power I'm afraid. As the cabling can easily carry the output from the amp, it can't deliver more power just because there's a wider path. The cables don't look too thin to me and I've been in the game a long time. Strictly speaking, yes I agree that different cabling can make a difference and it isn't solely down to power handling, but the difference usually isn't detectable by the human ear. (It's actually hard to meter, even with expensive test equipment.) As the others have said, if you are swapping the amp then it's worthwhile. We aren't trying to prove you wrong here mate - we're just trying to save you a job if it's not worth it!

I have to disagree with you one this one. I've done it on nearly every car I've had. The Nokia car kits (cark-xx series) will easily drive the speakers directly, as will most. (I've done it for friends also on Ericson car kits) The output level is way above line level. Temporarily run the output of the car kit directly to one of the speakers in the car and listen for yourself. (You MUST disconnect the feed from the amp. while testing) If you were to put it onto the input side of the amp you would at the least need an attenuator or have the volume way down close to nothing on the phone because the level is too high. You can actually buy the lead for this from http://www.dashmount.co.uk/ which has no amp. But you can easily construct your own. On another note - for users performing this to save confusion - the pin connections given - 85,86,87,87a are only for Bosch relays (or equiv.) so just check the connections if you are using a different manufacturer. (especially some of the relays at Maplins) The disadvantage is that you don't hear the keytones from the keypad. The mute doesn't kick in until you are making a call.

The cabling already in more than carries the power required. Will you be upgrading the whole system?

Yep - that's why I suggested a different relay. You will have to break into the speaker wiring and connect the common side of the relay to the speakers and normally closed side to the amp. Connect the phone output to the normally open side of the relay, so when it switches, the speakers will switch out of the amp and connect the phone. As soon as I can get the wiring diagram (which I'll have in a couple of days) I'll let you know the connections. e.g. Phone output-------------o Speaker____________/ relay AMP-------------------------o

If you do that, why not put another relay (or use a single multi throw C/O type) and switch out the rear speakers and switch in the phone as well. That's what I'll be doing on mine if I ever get the time..........

WOW - two other people jumped in with fancyplates as I was typing it!!

Have a look at www.fancyplates.com. They do some good designs. I ordered mine on Thursday and I received them this morning - no id or anything. (Suppose your credit card number is at least something.....)

Don't drive straight into your garage with it Matt! I know I'm going to get flamed for this but I've put length in the car through the hatch. I took some sellotape with me and used an old blanket wrapped around it.

Cheers Mike, just couldn't put it clearly! To save confusion with others - I only made the comment about not connecting in series (a lot of them anyway) because with no series resistor only a very tiny variation in voltage causes a fairly sharp change in current. Also, (and less important) with the different make up between batches, etc, you tend to get the odd one or two that end up with noticebly different brightnesses. If you connect 2 or more LEDs in parallel (without limiting resistors), the one with the lowest voltage drop hogs all the current, and it will overheat and fail prematurely. If you have a lot of LEDs in parallel, then the amount of current that the lowest LED hog will be even greater, with consequent overheating and failure. (You loose the magic smoke.)

Hmmm. Bit of a hard one to explain this. When working with LEDs you should always work by the current, not the voltage. Take your supply voltage and divide by the current to be drawn. For years I've seen the equation: R = ( Source Voltage - LED Voltage Drop ) / Amps, but it simply doesn't work long term. mainly because these are ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM ratings. LEDs do not have resistance like a resistor does. LEDs have a dynamic resistance, that is their resistance changes depending on how much current passes through them. But it's easiest to think of them as having NO resistance. This means that if you just connect an LED to a battery, you'll have a short circuit. (Well not exactly but I'm trying to explain it here) Let me think of a better way to explain it and I'll re-post. Mike - help me out on this one - I'm not explaining it very well at all!!

Worst thing is - when the going gets a bit rough the rest of the family sods off and leaves you.........