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Either you need a new battery or the starter motor is on its way out. It should start first time.

Any half decent automotive locksmith should be able to sort you out a new key. If they pull out the door or ignition barrel they can cut the key from reading the lock.

Factory Sat Nav wont work outside of Japan. Best option is to replace it with an aftermarket unit like a TomTom I'm sure there's a thread about this somewhere on here if you search.

Bit late but this might have helped you http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclub/index.php?showtopic=8708

Is yours auto?

Alright lad :winky:

Sport Grill looks best by a mile

In all honesty it's probably not worth the hassle. A guy on the ACNZA forums brought a car that had been converted. He had all sorts of issues, mainly to do with the ECU. Maybe if you got a piggyback ECU like a Greddy E-Manage you could tune out the problems. You can't just chuck a manual ECU in as the run different oxygen sensor set ups, not to mention they have totally different maps. Sell the 5AT & keep looking for a 6MT would be the best bit of advice I could give you.

Did both mine last year. Common as on most FR cars so don't feel it's just a Lexus/Altezza thing. Cost me NZ$120(£55) for the pair & a box of beer for my mate to fit them. Took him about 20mins to do both.

I'd still say there's a good chance the lower ball joints are gone. MOT guys miss them all the time. They're pretty hard to diagnose in place. Also have a look at castor arms. You can pick new bushes from eBay. They only sell complete arms genuine. Have a read of this thread http://www.clublexus...-or-daizen.html (same set up as IS)

Get the starter motor checked out, may need new contacts or solenoid. Also check the alternator is charging at the correct voltage too. But personally I'd just put a new battery in it. Good chance that'll fix the problem.

Take them for a drive, have a listen for any knocks & creaks from the suspension. Lower ball joints are pretty common to go around 50-60K. If they've been in the UK a while then seized calipers seems to be common from salted roads. MAF sensors usually need a clean, it will be a bit hesitant on the throttle response if dirty. If the spark plugs haven't been changed at the recommended service intervals it will cause a missfire from damaged coils. They can be expensive to replace. Can't think of much else that goes wrong. Factory CD players are crap. I pulled mine out & replaced it with a nice Alpine. Suspension & brakes are 99% identical to IS200 if there's any other common issues you'll find them on this forum if not AltezzaClub or Tezzworld forums will be able to help.

I just stumbled upon this, http://www.facebook....0&ref=fbx_album Looks like FIGS will be producing solid mount drop links in the near future. Wont be cheap I would imagine but if you're seeing lots of track time they'd be worth it. Bit of an overkill for the street though.

I've just put Greenstuff in my Altezza. They have good bite but I find them very dusty but that could just be from the bedding in process.

I'm finding the Greenstuff suit my driving. I'm not hard on the brakes. They have a good initial bite. Only thing is they're a bit dusty but that could just be from the bedding in process.

Meguiars Plastx or similar will sort the head lights out in no time. All plastic head lights go like that after a while. Sat Nav wont work outside of Japan. Rip it out & put an aftermarket unit in the dash. Does your heater blow hot or just one temp? Could be blend door motor is stuffed.

Never seen uprated drop links either. I got mine of eBay as they are stupid money genuine here. Front & rear, delivered for £59 from this guy -> http://cgi.ebay.co.u...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT Still got a slight knocking noise there but not as bad as before. I'm slowly going to replace all my bushes until I find it LOL. Coilovers are notoriously noisy in IS200/RS200.

Yeah finally got a to test it out on a dry bit of road last night. Couple of 90° bends that are off camber near my house. Rear end used to wobble around when I tried to take them at speed. Now sits nice & flat. Very happy.

You could try TRD yellow (also sold as L-Tuned). They're 99% stiffer than OE. I've just fitted a Cusco which is 125% stiffer. Have you got strut braces already? They're a worth mod. I've got front & rear. You can pick them up dirt cheap on eBay.

The car got some much needed attention yesterday. It's hadn't had anything major done to it since the cambelt was changed back in April due to all my funds going towards a holiday to England & Berlin in July/August. I did give it an oil change just before I went away though. Castrol Edge 5w30 & genuine filter as always. While I was in England I purchased front & rear swaybar drop links off eBay as genuine ones are worth an arm & a leg over here. Cost me £59 for all four which I was very happy with. The drop links had been doing my head in for a while making a dull knocking noise over every bump in the road at low speeds. A lad on the ACNZA forum is now selling Cusco products so I got a rear sway bar off him to put in along with the new links. The new bar is 125% stiffer than OE. The rear seems to still a lot flatter in the corners bit I will take it for a big drive next weekend to see the full effect. I also scored some EBC Greenstuff pads for free through work a few months back Finally put them in yesterday morning after we gave the disc a skim. Cheers to my workmates for helping out. Only cost me a box of beers.

If it's not the ball joints making the noise then there's a good chance its the bush in the trailing arm 48068E & 48069A. You can only get the complete arm genuine but you can get just the bush from TRD & aftermarket suppliers. I think you'll find most modern cars of this size are hard on suspension bushes, not just Lexus. Also I'd say your mechanics diagnostic skills are that great but by process of elimination you'll eventually find the fault.

Welcome to the club. 3K seems like a pretty good price to me. Cheaper than what you'd pay over here but then you guys pay much higher tax than us on older cars so that's reflected in the sale prices. Your car should have remote central locking. Not many 2nd owners end up with the fobs, I guess they must break or something. I only got the standard key with mine but then I had an alarm fitted so I have a remote now anyway.

You can't map a factory ecu so your best option will be to buy a Power FC. Is there an Apexi dealer or authoriased workshop in the UK? Might pay to get them to look at it first before you go splashing out on a new ECU. But it does sound like it's fried. Good luck What oil did put in it? Just interested to see what listed. You can run 5w30 upto 10w40 anything thicker will effect the VVTi.

I think you've just about covered all the bases there griderin. You didn't say what it's doing to make you think it's faulty? If your vehicle is running a Power FC & you have the correct software or can find someone with it then you'll be able to see whats wrong with it via a laptop. Not sure if fault codes or the likes will come up on a hand controller. I'm sure a bit of reading on the apexi web site should be able to answer this. This site may be of help to you also http://z4.invisionfr...?showtopic=4283 . As for the gray spark plugs what are they like when compared to this chart http://www.aa1car.co...spark_plugs.jpg How big is the gap as well? Generally you should run a smaller gap with a turbo (boost level dependent). Out of interest do you know what psi it's running & what fuel are us using? Should be using premium only.

Have a look on your chassis plate for the diff code. This will tell you what it came with from the factory. You'll have an axle number like A01A, A01B, A02A, A02B etc 'B' denotes LSD You can email me your chassis number & I can confirm in Microcat what ratio you have. 4:100 is the most common