E910

They seem to work better on some vehicles than others. It more than likely comes down to how good the factory earthing system is in the first place. I put one on my Levin BZ-G. The digital volt meter in the Apexi SAFCII used to read a maximum of about 13.8v. Once I installed the grounding kit it read 14.4v. I put one in the Altezza. It only has OE analogue volt meter but I didn't notice much movement so one can only hope it's made an improvement? If you can pick one up cheap enough then you've got nothing to lose IMO.

There's a helpful EPC online http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q.html ToyoDIY no long shows pictures but I've found an alternative site that still does http://www.japan-parts.eu/

My local Toyota/Lexus garage told me not to use GL5 in the gear box for this reason so I'm only going on what they've told me. I'm personally running MT-90 in mine & it's great stuff. I found this on the redline site under MT-90 specs "Safe for brass synchros, as it lacks the reactive sulfurs found in most GL-5 oils that cause damage" & "Appropriate coefficient of friction for most manual transmission synchronizers (other's synthetic gear oils are often too slippery for proper synchro engagement)"

Hey there Mr Oilman, just been looking at what your site recommends for the diff & gearbox for the IS & only one of the oils recommended for the gear box meets the appropriate Lexus/Toyota specifications. Also the recommendation for the diff is only one of the grades recommended & some of the auto trans fluid listed doesn't meet Toyota T-IV specs either. It's a very nice web site & you have a great selection of oil but I would have hoped you would have done a bit more research into the listings. RedLine MT-90 & Amsoil MTG are the only GL3/4 75w90 manual transmission oils you have. (Anything that is GL4/5 will cause premature synchro wear) The diff can run LS90, 80w90, 85w140 etc. I'd be inclined to run a multi grade with the Torsen LSD especially. So you're potentially loosing out on sales there The only ATF that state they meet T-IV are Fuchs ATF 4400, Amsoil Synthetic ATF & Millermatic ATF SP III

Can't remember if I've put this link up before? http://bitcrusher.or..._Codes_List.pdf Lots of info on the ACNZA Forums as well

Yep JUN make them. Probably work out cheaper than a genuine flywheel. You're looking at around £390 FedEX'd from Japan or you could see what Prolex or Fensport could do. Exedy make the clutch kits to suit as you can't use a OE kit with a solid flywheel due to a slightly different profile. http://exedy.com.au/...heetRowId=62668 They also do a kit with a solid flywheel included but I don't think it's lightweight http://exedy.com.au/...heetRowId=62667 A quick email to Exedy UK should be able to answer any questions you have

4.2L of anything between 5w30 & 10w40. (assuming you're after engine oil) If you can afford fully synthetic then I'd run it over semi synthetic & use a genuine filter as well.

Don't forget you only want a GL4 or GL3 oil in your gear box & the correct grade is 75w90. Admittedly if you're going to have to rebuild in the near future it wont matter to much if you put GL5 in but you'll want new synchros when you do as it prematurely wears them. My recomendation would be to get some Redline MT-90 or Amsoil MTG from Opie oils. *EDIT* Bit more info on diff oil here http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=67162&st=0&p=721727&fromsearch=1entry721727

You didn't put an option for not noisy Mine was a little stiff to change & had a bit of drag but never noisy before I put some Redline MT-90 in it at 50K miles. Give some a try but I can't guarantee it will quieten it down. Worth a try & cheaper than a rebuild

Could be your dual mass flywheel. Mind does that occasional when its cold & I don't have enough revs on. Not a biggy but it will need replacing eventually. Good excuses to get a light weight solid flywheel when the time comes.

Never heard of a NGK or Denso Iridium plug failing like that so my guess would be cheap stuff. I've personally been using the NGK IX range in my vehicles since it was release about 9 years ago & sold hundreds of IX plugs with out any issues. Mind you the IX range only has an Iridium centre electrode. The laser range has an Iridium ground electrode as well. Stick to the IX range & you'll be safe. The Iridium tips are so small the damage it would cause would hardly be noticeable I would imagine. In theory if it fell off it would just get fired out the exhaust.

They usually have a wire for illumination so when you turn the lights on the radio dims. I'm pretty sure it's the green wire from memory in the OE loom. My Alpine can turn the lights of completely which is handy for long night trips

This may be of some interest to you taz_no1 http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclub/index.php?showtopic=9225&hl= There's a guy who works for a Toyota dealer on ACNZA that may be able to help you with a part number for the qualitat front cover (if they're still available that is).

You only need 1.95L for the diff according to the Lexus spec sheet I have. 2 US QT = 1.9L I'm sure 5ml ain't going to make much difference. I only put 2QT in mine anyway. The Silkolene SILKTRAN is GL5 so I wouldn't be using it. The only other GL4 75w90 I've found is Amsoil MTG. You could use Castrol EP 80W or Motul Gear MB 80W if you're on a budget & only want mineral oil.

These a thread about noises & what people have don't to try fix them, could be of some help to you http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=58984&st=0

You'll save money in the long run with a K&N. They also flow better longer than an OE unit. They might be very similar when new but after 15K the K&N wont be as restrictive thus improving your mpg. If you can get one cheap enough then go for it I say.

MAF - http://z4.invisionfr...?showtopic=2050 Throttle body - http://www.tezzaworl...php?f=16&t=6341 Air Filter - http://www.lexusowne...showtopic=66989

If you'd read a few posts down you would have found all the info you need ;) http://www.lexusowne...showtopic=66629 I guess you could try eBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/APEXI-INTAKE-PANEL-FILTER-01-05-IS300-98-05-GS300-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c51a996cdQQitemZ190348629709QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Yep, they're cheap n nasty. Scosche make the better aftermarket kits You can get a genuine fascia but they don't have the spaces for the seat heater (the blanking plate is removable)

Just run with the standard heat range but change to an Iridium plug. Denso IK20 or NGK BKR6EIX11 are the two best options for he 3SGE. Pod filters cause a lot of hassle & are expensive. A decent panel filter is all you need. There's a flap in the top of the air box that opens at @4000rpm. You can disconect the vacuum line to it so open all the time if you want a bit of induction noise at lower rpm. If you haven't cleaned your MAF sensor & throttle body yet, do it asap. You'll be surprised at how much difference it makes.

Clean the MAF sensor anyway. All it takes is a thin layer of grime & it wont read properly

Silly question but does the passengers side door lock not work either? The old metal coat hander down the window not work these days? Plenty of garages & locksmiths have tools to break into cars with out damaging them. Will be cheaper than buying & installing a new glass I would imagine.

Does your filter adaptor look like this one? Would only take 2 mins to undo the hose clamps holding the air filter on & see if there's a MAF hiding under there. If you dont't have a MAF then the previous owner has converted it to a MAP sensor which is quiet a rare conversion unless you're making big hp.

I'd definitly start with a MAF clean Also give the throttle body a good clean as there is a sensor in there the effects the idle when dirty. Let us know how you get on after that. Another less common issue/fault they have is with the TPS (throttle position sensor) which is on the side of the throttle body. Sometime all it needs is adjusting otherwise a new one. A surging idle is usually caused by a faulty EFI water temp sensor on most cars. I've never struck this issue on a Altezza though but might be worth looking at if the a fore mentioned doesn't fix it.

Clean the MAF sensor & throttle body out. The should help with the idle a bit but from my experience if the idle is dropping up & down that much it's usually a faulty EFI water temp sensor that causing the problem. Could also be the aftermarket ECU that's causing it?