Kiefels

Ok, so after a good 8 hours sleep and confident I had the job in the bag today. I did this... FULL SIZE The wheel is the spare. I have the usual 1 off to re-furb. (Laquer Flaking off) Fronts next. Waiting on the disc arrival. :)

Doh!!!! I think a severe lack of sleep and lack of common sense took over. If i had remembered i left the car in gear i would have realised. In neutral i could have turned the hub to get the hole in line with the adjuster. Doh, doh and DOH!!!! Lol

at time of quote i was 39, 1 accident 2009 no blame, no points now :), ncd protected, legal protection, personal accident, £750 ice and sat nav cover and 60 days free EU insurance. Just over £400 fully comp from hastings Direct. Pays to shop around.

Hi all. Ok so went to change my rear discs and pads today after getting fed up of seeing badly scored discs and crappy looking brake calipers. Ok so the usual removal of pads and caliper was easier than I am used to but... As I am lead to believe, there is supposed to be a hole in the disc and hub that allows you to insert a screw driver and release the tension on the handbrake brake shoes. After several minutes peering through the only hole that actually goes through to the handbrake section I find... No adjuster only a part of the shoes. After battling with handbrake adjusting and some gentle pursuasion with a brummy screwdriver I managed to get ONE disc off. On removal I find that the adjuster (The bit supposed to be accesible through the holein the disc) is on the bottom of the hub. As per manual but the hole in the hub cover that SHOULD allow access to adjuster is 90 degrees clockwise from it. So knowing I am going to have to remove these disc again soon. How the hell amd I supposed to put them in the correct position again? Or can I?

You sure it's not the condensor/radiator? My rad went and my air con doesn't work. After rad removal I now found out why my air con doesn't work. Full of holes on the rear of it. (the side that faces the radiator) However if it really isn't your condensor/radiator then you must mean the evaporator? 1 on fleabay been there for over a month.... LINK The evaporator is situated behind your clocks in the cabin. Looks like a whole dash removal job. YIKES!!!! Go HERE for an online manual and check. Air conditioning, Air Conditioning System, Location and you will see the componants and where they hide. :)

Thanks for that Lightmeup. Want to do centre console and clocks at the same time so news on which smds/leds are required for the centre console would be great. :) I am assuming that centre console includes heated seat, snow and traction control switches too? I have a light out in a heated seat switch and behind the air con controls. Hence me requiring console bulbs too. :) Thanks Lightmeup.

Thanks for that Dinho but I require the whole kit, for console (aircon controls etc)too. All that is on ebay is the clock set for obviously...Speedo, Rev counter etc etc Still none the wiser on which smd's or how many are required.

@lightmeup. Your dash and clocks loko amazing!!! Been looking at doing my own dash in blue leds/smd's as the orange clashes with the blue car and hids lol. Only thing putting me off was not been able to locate correct lamps for console air-con controls, speedo etc clocks and the ring around the ignition. Not afraid of a little soldering or work as I got the car as a bit of a dog and am working on bringing up to spec anyway. So my question is... Is there a chance you can list which smd's preferable the ones you have in your setup. (Blue) and how many of each I would require? Also...Is the soldering actually to solder smd's into led housings or detaching housing and soldering directly to the stock wiring? Thanks.

Just sorted myself out with a second master key. Original snapped and was held together with glue so better safe than sorry. I splurged on another. Always a good idea to keep a spare battery for the remotes too. Just in case. :)

I have to concur with Parthiban. I have had my is200 sport for 13 months, covered 17,000 miles and still have over 5mm on my front tyres. Excessive front tyre wear on power assisted vehicles tends to be on the outer edge of the tread. Scrubbing...Caused by turning of wheels whilst vehicle stationary. My tyres don't even show excessive amounts of this problems either. I would have your steering properley checked and possibly drag it down to a car body repairer and have your chassis checked to make sure its straight.

Ok back again. My worst fears confirmed. Top of actuator snapped so need a replacement actuator. I pretty sure in this ere forum I read that you can undo the top of the actuator instead of removing the whole lot you just replace the top. Obviously Lexus won't allow me to buy just the top of the actuator soo... I need to replace the offside (drivers side)bearing in mind I'm thinking of swapping tops only. If I come across a nearside actuator. Would I be able to use the top from this or does it differ from drivers side? EDIT... You can swap the tops of the actuators with no issues as it's only the mounting bracket that differs. I ended up taking the front bumper off as I have a fibre glass front bumper and nothing bloody fits right in it. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

I replaced my old cars windscreens myself(when I was younger)as they were held in by rubber seals. Wouldn't recommend you try and fit your own nowadays though. Most modern car windscreens are physically BONDED (with some form of adhesive)to the car and gives extra strength and rigidity to the body and chassis. I would leave it to the windscreen fitters but make sure it is well sealed. Is200's windscreens if not sealed correctly leak water down the inside of the car and into the fuse box. Usual symptom of that happening is your headlights don't turn off.

Not sure about the dark top tint. I still have the original screen (Seriously dinged and wiper now with added wiper blade scratches) If you look at the bottom of your screen (assuming you still have one on the car) The very bottom, where it is black. You will see the looping pattern of a rear heated screen. The is200 only heats the bottom of the screen where the wiper blades sit. Don't ask me why, maybe for economy lol.

Ok so I ordered a new headlamp washer from Lexus Leicester. £17.85 plus VAT and colour coded. I'm just hoping that where it detached from is high enough up as to not require the washer actuator too. That is another £211 plus VAT. YIKES!!! Got myself a new original gear knob while I was there £36. Which is a little steep but I like the chrome sphere. And I have been trying to find a decent replacement for sometime now. Being unsuccessful OEM will suffice. :) Thanks Guys.

***SPOILER WARNING***!!! I'm almost 100% certain that no transponders = New lock set and ecu with matching keys and transponders. Without an already programmed to your vehicle master transponder and key (3 buttons)you cannot program a replacement transponder. Although saying that...Lexus SHOULD be able to get a master key cut from your lock number on the inside of the drivers door and they SHOULD be able to get a transponder coded to your vehicle. That requires going back to toyota japan and try to get the code from them = Costly New keys and lock set = Costly New Keys, Lock set AND ecu matched to transponders = MORE costly. At least £1,500 Sorry!!! :(

Thanks sendz :)

Hello my fellow LOC members. Once again it falls unto you and your mass of knowledge to help me AGAIN. I went to my car today to pick up the Missus and I find the Offside (Drivers side) headlamp washer/cover missing.(the plastic bit that sticks out of the bumper)car is a sport model 2002/3 btw. I assume its MIA as I couldn't bear to think that ANYONE could be so dishonest as to half hinch it. My question/questions fellow members are... 1. Is this item replaceable on it own or does it have to come as a complete unit? 2. Where am I likely to pick up said item without taking out a second mortgage? The usual fleabay just throws tacky chrome windscreen washer covers at me. I thank you all in advance for the following flood of answers and assistance. Ha ha ha! ;)

Thank you Davison I have actually never noticed it's slower to warm up during winter. wonder if there was any problem before for the quick heat up (usually it takes just a couple of minutes, then I get about 3 -4 marks on the temp gauge, which means hot air coming through already) HI... Having had heating/cooling probs in the past I have to tell you this... If your radiator was slowing the flow of water down significantly you would find your vehicle overheating. The radiator is to cool the hot water coming from around the engine. So if the radiator is blocked/semi blocked the water would sit around the engine longer and would get hotter and hotter. As your car is running cool/cold I would look straight to the themo-stat. The thermo-stat is a metallic valve that operates purely on heat. The thermo-stat should be in the closed position whilst the engine warms up then when the thermo-stat reaches a preset temperature (hot water from engine) it opens and allows water to circulate through the radiator where it is cooled before entering the engine cooling again. Thermo stats have no electronic components they are operated by the natural action on metal expanding and contracting with heat and cold. Sounds to me like your thermo-stat is stuck open thus allowing water to pass through to radiator before it has been warmed via the engine. Because of the cold weather the temperature will stay lower than usual. Had the thermo-stat stuck closed you would find your vehicle over-heating because the water cannot pass the thermo-stat into the radiator to cool down. I hope this helps. I am leak hunting on my IS myself. Losing coolant but can't find out where.

I can understand what you are saying here for the car just starting and smelling but... I didn't have this problem at all until I changed my plugs. Despite the garage I bought the car from saying they just had it serviced I thought I would check n change the plugs. When I removed the air filter I found it really badly blocked up with dead insects n crap. It's a K and N so I gave it a solvent bath and threw some light oil on it to clean it up. Now with the new plugs and clean filter my car has a really strong smell of petrol. When it's warm too. The smell is from the exhaust as it goes away when engine is switched off. It smells like hell when I reverse anywhere though. I took the ECU fuse out for 10 mins when I changed the plugs so I'm hoping it's the ECU re-adapting again to the clean filter and new plugs. Is a bit thought provoking when your smell free car suddenly develops the smell of a petrol station forecourt though.

Just got some Denso Iridiums from US ebay. 6 delivered for a little less than £48. I can't argue with that. :)

Thanks Leki Will go for the Denso's then. :) Hope it smooths out my flat spot. Although it may be a pipe off/split have not checked properley yet. Read up on the Denso's and as they are iridiun the contact core can be finer so it takes less current to create a strong spark. So hopefully if it a coil pack failing it may clear that up too??

Ok so I seem to have a flat spot between 1k to 2.5k more noticeable when engine is hot. Car is about due a service so looking for some decent plugs to try to even this issue out. These Denso plugs... Having not really noticed ANY real differences when changing plugs on any of my previous vehicles. Why are these better? Fuel economy? Power Gain? Cleaner more efficient running? Just want to satisfy my mind that spending £60 on plugs is going to be better than spending £50 on plugs. Thanks for all information on this.

39 over 9 years NCB. Was quoted £295 fully comp with windscreen, protected ncb and all the trimmings last year. Made the mistake of moving and got my renewal. £780 that was from qwik fit Went online and got it down to just over £400 but as I said I moved and that really loaded my preminum as you can see. I used to live in a village that had a main road run through it some years ago. Because the road was notorious for accidents this loaded my premium as it was flagged for "Large claim numbers" So post codes play a HUGE part in how much you pay for your insurance. I was smart enough to move into a city that was declared murder capital of the UK around 5 years ago. houses are cheap but it sux for car insurance. Also if you use more than one comparison website I found differences from the same companies up to £100 from one comparison website to another. Now how does that work??? comparethemarket.com confused.com moneysupermarket.com gocompare.com Check them out and see the differences.

Just incase someone else alights upon this thread and finds the links to online manual dead. Here is a new "working" link...Working Link And thanks guys for the info. :)