ColinBarber

Moved for you.

It is either severely discharged or faulty - you should expect to see between 12.6 - 12.8 v when fully charged. I'd certainly expect it to read higher after 80 mins of charging, but that might not be enough to fully charge it, depending on how flat it started out at. I assume you don't have a battery charger to fully charge it up? If not you don't actually need to drive the vehicle, you can just leave it in 'Ready' mode for it to charge the battery - turn off the heating system so the petrol engine doesn't fire up all the time to keep the cabin warm.

Yes, across all models, not just the RX, it has been reliable to date. Whether it becomes an issue with age, like air suspension on older RX models, it is too early to tell.

Sorry John. Yes, hopefully the new software will improve range and charging speeds (within the bounds of the technology deployed within the vehicle can allow).

It isn't - it's a rushed compliance car that is woefully uncompetitive. Even The Car Care Nut on YouTube, who couldn't be anymore pro Toyota/Lexus, said it wasn't a good car.

I'd go to an auto electrician and get them to repair it - shouldn't really cost more than a hour or two in labour provided the connector itself hasn't been damaged. If you go to Lexus they won't repair the loom, only replace it, for £1,000+.

The schedule form is used for all Toyota/Lexus vehicles - the only line that applies to the IS-F has a black dot against it on the right hand side - it requires GL-5 gear oil There are some vehicles that use ATF in the rear diff, hence the lines below but they aren't relevant to the IS-F. For the same reason there are lots of lines at the top of the page for the front diff - but there are no black dots because these are not relevant to any IS.

If you don't want to take it to Lexus you should be able to find an independent that can put it on a lift and check all the suspension, steering and hub components for play and damage.

Check the top hose going to the radiator, is it getting hot? If not the the engine thermostat might be stuck closed. If the radiator is getting hot, is the electric fan coming on? If not then the fan thermostat might be faulty or the fans/relays faulty:

With second keys seemly starting to come through more frequently now I thought that maybe new vehicle would be supplied with two, however I know someone who has very recently taken delivery of a new 450h+ - no second key, no locking wheel nuts - although the dealer did advise him of this fact and that they would follow along at some point.

No, it has an R at 30k km/18k miles (which would be 20k miles in the UK) and then again at 60k km/36k miles (40k miles in the UK) etc. The 4 years would be if you aren't hitting the distance and therefore it is changed at 4 years instead. There seems to be confusion/reluctance by UK dealers to change the rear diff oil no matter what model. There have been posts here for owners of IS300h and GS300h/450h where it hasn't been changed on a major service. The owners service schedule book is clear - every 20k miles/2 years for those.

Auto gearbox is lifetime (if you aren't on a severe service schedule (i.e. taxi, towing)), diff is every 20k miles. The following is the European service schedule, the UK essentially follows this but the timing as slightly different as they count up in 15,000km and we in the UK have a 10,000 mile schedule:

I imagine so. In the 90s I worked for Toshiba, back when they were a leading laptop manufacturer, and we had a customer's power supply fail which had melted a little bit. Japan were insistent they received it back rather than just being thrown away so they could perform a root cause analysis on it. Obviously it could have been a safety issue so it was more important to them to understand what happened but I was always impressed that they took the time and expense to understand the fault.

Looks good value, although I prefer the Halfords one currently on offer that has a lower profile and lifts higher, although more expensive: https://www.halfords.com/tools/garage-workshop/axle-stands-trolley-jacks/halfords-advanced-3t-low-profile-trolley-jack-with-pad-563118.html

Not a steering box as the RX doesn't have one as it uses rack & pinion steering - so could need a new rack (which you won't want to purchase new from Lexus). I suspect there are some bent steering/suspension components which hopefully would be cheaper than replacing the rack but I would have thought that would have been spotted when they did the alignment.

I highly doubt it, it's not listed in the service schedule. But it uses ATF WS fluid, if it can last a 'lifetime' in the gearbox then it should also be able to in the diff transfer module. The diff oil itself should be changed every 20k (major) service.

The fuel regulator itself is in the tank, not sure if it has an electronic pressure sensor or not. The following is the vacuum layout for your engine - I cannot tell where the feed comes from - you will need to follow it back into the intake somewhere (after the throttle body) and tee into it - I'd recommend doing it before any of the VSV valves so your readings aren't affected briefly as the open/close. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/altezza/sxe10/153375/body/1708/25770

see here: I suspect the rubber has split and allowed water in the switch. Unless you can dry it out I suspect you will need a replacement switch, not just the rubber.

I'd have said that mainland Europe is the leading indicator and the US catching up. Growth is there but seems to be mainly driven by government subsidies at the moment - those subsidies prevent non-US built cars being competitive, and as a result many European manufacturers aren't making all their EV models available which limits consumer choice. https://insideevs.com/news/705215/us-plugin-car-sales-2023/ As above from Bill, the US is a big place and average journey lengths are much longer which means range issues can be real rather than just perceived as in Europe.

I believe it is built into the alarm siren, number 5 below. Not sure how you access it, either via the boot (removing trim) or via the cabin/seats. Certainly I would expect this to be connected via one of the fuses you probably did test - I imagine via one in the engine bay rather than in the cabin.

Cost control, and the fact that they like to have a consistent build for all countries (where possible). I suspect the UK is the only country where locking wheel nuts are part of an insurance rating. They do actually sell them as an accessory in the UK - but wheel theft isn't really a thing these days, and a locking wheel nut is easily defeated if someone actually wanted your wheels.

As above, aftermarket ones aren't great because the car doesn't have a special windscreen fitted that is needed to get a sharp display that appears projected outside of the car.

The alternator does go through a fuse but it's a 120 A bolt in fuse, not a little push in automotive one - there are several other higher current fuses that you wouldn't be able to test with your mini tester. Ideally you need an accurate DC clamp meter put on the main lead from the battery before any other circuits are branched off - that will give you the total coming from the battery (everything except tracking across the top of the battery if you have dirt and moisture on it - only a couple of milliamps but worth keeping the top of the battery clean). For the SC430 the common source of battery drain is the stereo amplifier. I would also check the alarm backup battery, which has no doubt failed by now and so the vehicle may well be constantly charging it.

Contact Lexus CS directly so they have your correct details.

Ideally it would be better to find your parasitic drain cause. By disconnecting the battery your engine ECU is always losing the stored fuel trims, engine idle position and gearbox shifting settings. If you are pulling fuses then you are unlikely to find the source as things aren't going into standby modes if power is being turned off/on. Ideally you need to fool the vehicle into thinking all doors are closed and wait 30 mins before measuring the voltage drop across the fuses, rather than taking them out.