ColinBarber

Legally I don't believe they have to do that now, but I guess most dealers are used to doing so.

Sorry to hear this Mica. Unfortunately this type of theft is no longer contained to just London. P.S. I've merged your post with this larger one - having a single large thread on the subject will hopefully attract more attention than lots of single posts that get quickly lost.

Almost impossible even without P2D enabled. I believe they recently updated the phone app to stop the 'key' working if the phone hasn't been moved for a period of time, similar to the sleeping you get with physical key fobs. The refreshed M3 just launched also implements UWB, not that relay attacks are that practical with bluetooth anyway. Obviously a vulnerability might be discovered in the future, as with any car, but given the programmable nature of the vehicle its more likely that Tesla could fix an issue in software via an over the air update than Lexus could with the ES. Not sure all the security features are recognised by Thatcham, and no locking wheel nuts, means even the RWD model is in the highest insurance group.

I was wrong - there were two reds originally available in the UK, although they did drop the burgundy one after a couple of years 2018: 2020:

Fuses don't blow based on voltage or power just current. So it makes sense to use a common fuse for both 12v and 24v vehicles (with 24v vehicles commonly having voltages near 29v when charging). The voltage rating is more related to the gap between the fusible link inside the fuse which needs to be greater on higher voltage applications to stop arcing between the two points. I think all standard automotive fuses are slow blow - they should be able to work at the rating current indefinitely, but I would expect them to blow within a second or two if you doubled their capacity.

CT is based on the Auris. The CT's second facelift was very minor just to stretch out the vehicle for a few more years so there weren't any major electrical changes. Certainly the 2018 wiring diagrams I've seen still show simple LED headlights without any CAN connections to them. The Prius Gen 4 is vulnerable (2016 on). Not sure about the Prius C, that's a completely different platform to both the Prius and the CT, but your example seems to have been a relay attack - it was posted back in 2018 before the CAN bus vulnerability was being exploited. I'll try and track down some diagrams from the very latest models to check they aren't vulnerable.

Not the CT, but that’s not really relevant to this discussion.

Facelift models are technically vulnerable but not heard of any stolen this way on these forums. But they are rare and nothing really available after 2017 - if you already have an ES I’d assume you want something newer than that.

That’s partly because it’s an SUV. Trouble is if your preference is a saloon the your choice is limited these days.

Experiment with them to see which ones suits your driving style. Eco mode will dull the throttle response and reduce the AC performance to increase economy but some people find the throttle is too laid back and then end up getting frustrated and start over compensating and then using more fuel than in Normal mode. You might find it makes the vehicle more relaxing in start/stop traffic. Sport mode will increase throttle response and gives extra mid throttle performance by providing more battery assistance to the petrol engine. You will use more fuel because the petrol engine won't be turned off as much, and will start back up again sooner under less throttle.

It does sound like a stalk issue. The only other related part would be the clock spring. If you have had your car serviced by Lexus in the last 12 months then it would be covered under Relax warranty.

Lowering the unsprung mass of a vehicle can be noticeable, not just on track but on the road too. Whether this is the case for this revision would need a back to back test to properly confirm.

The C-HR will get a plug-in hybrid option later in the year, I wonder if they will do the same for the UX.

Just to add, these rear lights are prone to water ingress as the big rubber cover at the back becomes unstuck which can be glued down again. Therefore the issue might just be moisture, or water has damaged the electrical circuitry within the light unit - although that doesn't explain why the fault stays with the vehicle's wiring and not the light.

There is no module or anything sophisticated, just dedicated wiring for each function back to the body ECU. 1 - Tail light 2 - Indicator 3 - Ground 4 - Brake light Are the voltage levels the same both sides? You might have high resistance on the ground where is goes onto the body and therefore the light cannot function correctly.

As the ACIS valve is meant to open at high rpm I'd check that operating correctly and there isn't a vacuum leak when it tries to open at high rpm which then causes a problem as it goes back to idle. Just temporarily clamp both the hoses or disconnect the wiring (which will generate an engine check light) to see if it makes a difference. You can see it in this video - although I don't really recommend deleting it as suggested here for anything other than a test to help diagnose your issue as it can be detrimental to low end torque if it isn't working correctly.

That code is called Aleutian Grey in the UK.

They should be HID. You should see high voltage warning stickers on the rear of the lights/engine bay which would confirm.

For cars up to 10 years old you get a 1 year relax extended warranty as part of the service. They call it a free warranty but in reality it is part of the service cost and goes some way to explain why Lexus are extremely expensive to service compared to the competition.

You should be able to go old school on the pre-facelift series II GS (1998-2000) in the UK and just read the codes via flashing lights:

Seems like you made the right decision based on this comparison between the two brands https://insideevs.com/news/705255/hyundai-toyota-battle-ev/

Series IV launched in September for Jan 2016 deliveries. Some series III were still being registered in 2016. Personally I’d stay away from series IV if you live in a city. It might not get stolen if you fit plates but the insurance will continue to rise and now some companies won’t even quote.

Congrats on the new car Phil 👍 If you don't select either L or R on the mirror adjuster, the mirrors won't dip. Or if you allow them to dip, you can adjust the dipped position which is then saved for the next time - you could therefore adjust it to be the same as the normal position, or to dip just a small amount. The speedo will read over by design. You can get a diagnostic mode up on the nav screen which will display GPS speed, but might just be easier to get a GPS speed from your mobile phone? These are the permitted speedo ranges (mph) actual > allowed range: 40 → 42 to 44 80 → 83 to 87 120 → 125 to 129 160 → 166 to 171 200 → 208 to 213

Get some insurance quotes for both gens, potentially there could be a big difference starting to emerge.

HID bulbs do dim over time. Standard halogen bulbs don’t tend to dim that much, not sure if the extra bright ones are worse in that respect.