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ipwn

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Everything posted by ipwn

  1. You do realise I use Amayama ? Actually I use a different Japanese supplier but they're all the same. Titch my point is,Amayama is great, but not everyone can wait X weeks for delivery of their parts. Ofcourse they will be cheaper than a dealer in England, that just goes without saying. It's always been a case with japanese parts, horrifically expensive and/o difficult to get hold of, but in theory you need them less often than other marques. I buy my stuff from Toyota at trade price anyway, brings the cost right down. Just the other day on here I spotted someone spending £60 on a brake wear sensor. It's around £8 from Toyota on trade.
  2. Lets flip that, Toyota WS fluid in England £6...in USA it's around $15. A bargain for us seeing as when you relate the earnings etc. We should be paying £15 not £6.
  3. Not everyone can wait for a "upto" 28 days delivery time. They are reliable, if you need parts some point in the future, not if you need them within the next 2 days because your control arm has snapped in half.
  4. Dont even need to solder, twist the wires and tape it. It will be fine
  5. I get trade price from Toyota but surely thats not the mark up from trade to public??? BMW wear sensors are around £10 mark aswell. There must be something seriously wrong if they are that £60 area? Seriously wrong, for a common wearing item that is made in large quantites, shared with Toyotas, they are fundamentally taking the micky there.
  6. That's a list price, you need to apply for a quotation where they give you a more accurate price. It's still usually within that price range. Also was that UAE spec of Japan spec?
  7. Well assuming you have an issue with the car, this will clear it for a couple of days and will return later on when the correct parameters are flawed again. On the other hand I had the same issue with a that light coming on when driving in the snow. Car was slipping and going up a steep hill. Engine off and on cleared it all up.
  8. I just can't find them on toyodiy! My OCD is going overboard. I need just those clip Part numbers. Thanks gang!
  9. Access to Japanese parts in Europe utterly hauls *****. That's all I can say.
  10. they may seem uninterested as they are probably assuming you are a timewaster turning up in some old Lexus at a BMW bodyshop and just want a nearby dealer quote. If you gave them the car I am sure it would actually be turned out on time, why would they want a big Lexus taking up their space unnecessarily. Also the time spent here will be far less than driving to and from a bodyshop rectifying work. If they see you as a timewaster, I don't blame them. Regarding the above, looks like Stephen can do anything and everything.....
  11. Were you getting it on full lock at very slow speeds? I don't really get a knock in other scenarios, I've temporarily put it down to it being more likely the drop links. I only ever get the knock when on complete full lock, going forward or revering.
  12. I don't think it's 100% neseccary to have a Lexus specific mechanic. You just need a good solid mechanic for these older cars, a mechanic working around Toyota and Hondas is extra advantageous. But any good solid mechanic can do a timing belt on that engine.
  13. Couple of rules I have about bodyshops. 1. Use a recommended one that you have been done so by a reliable source. 2. If above fails use a BMW dealer bodyshop or any other dealer bodyshop that HAS A BODYSHOP IN HOUSE. This means on their premises they have an oven booth, BMW/Dealer trained workers etc etc. Do not fall for the, yes sir, we have our own approved dealer bodyshops, this is a scam. The reason to go for number 2 is, you will be guaranteed a decent job, a decent warranty, trained people, it's in their best interest to do high quality work, they have a decent bodyshop budget and aren't looking to save every penny. They have trained painters, trained smart repairers, trained trim people, trained bodywork people, everyone has their own specialistity rather than 2 people doing everything. You have a 2-3 managers, and you have the manager of the dealer and then the manager of the network. You can keep sending the car back and keeping your courtesy car. People rarely know that dealer bodyshops work on a much discounted rate over the workshop. ARound £25 per hour. A good exampl is my dads Honda Accord that was rear ended and left upto us to repair. Private bodyshops were all around £400 mark for painting, repairing rear tail gate and bumper. All cash in hand and all privately done. The BMW dealer asked for £400 + vat. An extra £80 for a dealer to do the work, a proper job, a proper warranty. They had absolutely no problem with it being a Honda, all bumper fittings etc are the same. They can access a Honda database if needs be. Oh and by deafult, they all use 2 pack paint, with proper preparation, proper booths, proper blending techniques etc. It's a no brainer. IF you want a hassle free, reliable warranted work, then just do the above for the extra £50-100 it costs. It's worth it and if they make any mistakes or wreck anything, they will cough up easily.
  14. If you revarnish the colour will be the same. It's like painting a car, you have the basecoat and then the lacquer. You only want to fix the lacquer, the basecoat which holds the colour isn't being touched.,
  15. I see that point. I've had a real good look underneath now. If I am going to replace the pipe, it is in fact not that difficult. The only area of movement required is the fuel tank where I need only an extra inch to slip the pipe out and back in, I reckon this movement can be had by just unbolting a couple of places and just squeezing the pipe past....the job is not that big, there is no need to go ballistic and drop everything at the back. Only a couple of bits need dropping ,everything else can be done with extensions and swivel joints. Second point is, no one ever sits in the back of the car anyway, so I am not bothered about losing the back of the cars AC, and even still some LSs came with only the front set up so the front AC is powerful enough to cool the car as standard. I had an epiphany under the car, go to where the rear pipe starts, unbolt it, and just bolt on some metal screwed end caps. No need to weld, just screw them on and boom you're sorted temorarily. This will buy me some nice time until I fancy actually getting my finger out and replacing the pipe! See below my tactic:
  16. £170 for the pipe. + Labour to fit it, there's no chance I am going to take it on with dropping all of that stuff at the back. If a garage was to take it on I would guess around £300. I am thinking that where the rear pipe starts, go 30-40cm in and cut it there, so if I ever want to replace the pipe, I haven't touched anything up front and that it's still a case of just removing the rear pipe.
  17. Sigh, back to square 2. It's still leaking. Took a closer look at the rear lines, there are UV dye spots on the rear line,. right at the back top. I'm thinking of welding up this f***** and converting it to a single AC system. I've had enough now.
  18. LOL, I went downstairs to look at the card on the bonnet, it says for topping up add 100 G, you guessed it, he put in 100G. Need to go back so that I can have 900G in my system! Would it still flag up that sensor error even with low gas?
  19. Yes, it's right at the front just behind the bumper. Next to the port. It's a 3 pin wire. black white/black white/blue For recharging, they followed the weight that was on the plaque on the bonnet.
  20. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150931342753?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 This is the sensor I need, I take it. How can I short it out easily? IDeally dont want to chop up wires.. The sensors right infront of me by the looks if it, at the front bumper.
  21. Getting there, gassed up, still not working. Diagnostic test gives error code 23 which means Pressure Switch Circuit.
  22. Spoke with Lexus, there isn't any recall or outstanding work regarding AC lines. Looks like I will go with the patch option first, if it's a failure, then dropping everything is the way to go.
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