johnatg

I look after 5 cars, so the 60 litres does for a while. I think oil lats a good while once it's opened - after all it needs to be good for a year or more in the harsh conditions of engine running, so I reckon it will last OK sitting quietly in the can even if it has been opened. I use Exol Optima LSG 5W-30 (eBay) in all the cars - Lexus, Mazda MX-5, Seat Mii, Peugeot 208, Mazda3 and my lawnmower. Good garages will keep a range of oils. Whether you get the correct one for your particular car is something else! I don't know about the suck method really - I know it's in widespread use and some cars don't have drain plugs any more - incidentally the 'smart' bit of smartearlybird I've mentioned here is spares for Smart cars - and they do a replacement sump with a drain plug!

Don't know - I don't have the luxury of auto wipers - mines a nice simple SE.

You can see the VIN number through the windscreen at the very front of the top of the dash on the passenger side. Whether it's etched on the screen itself is another matter. I'm not sure of the validity of the reg number or VIN being etched on the screen - it might be a dealer extra at point of sale but it's not universal by any means.

Yes, but those are retail prices and garages pay much, much less. Now, I pay retail, but for example I buy oil to spec in 20 litre drums for £60, so say £20 for the oil, OK, filter at about £9, sump plug washer - I bought the correct green fibre/ally core ones from smartearlybird.co.uk - 10 for £5.68 - say 60p (a garage could buy 100 for £29.61). Air filter - £8.92 and engine flush - I buy 6 Comma bottles for £15.84 - say £2.70 each. Total for above - £42 or so. And a garage will pay less again in more bulk and at trade prices. So charge £80 or a bit more for labour and you're just about in business - tight though. And a garage wouldn't use sump plug washers - most of them will suck the oil out with a pump and not bother with the flush. You don't need to change the pollen filter every time (nor the air filter actually). The rest of the service involves a coat of looking at and very little more. I certainly wouldn't use a cheapo service outfit - but equally I think paying getting on for £300 for a service is completely OTT. You're paying for a lot of fancy environment, coffee, biscuits etc etc. And on to cheap MoTs - there is indeed a chance - likelihood even - that they will find a fail or even just an advisory on something and charge a lot for a 'fix'. You need to find somewhere you can trust. A common scam I've come across frequently is 'worn brake pads'. Most people will say 'You'd better fix it then'. I've fallen for it myself when a family member's car has had that advisory, so I've bought pads in preparation, then when I come to do the job I find there's half the pad thickness left. The last time was my daughter's Pug 208 - got a service (not MoT) advisory in December '17 for low front brake pads and worn discs (needs to be done ASAP) , so I bought a set of pads then came to do the job in January. Bit of a silver lining there - we found she had no locking wheel nut key and it took quite a while to sort that out, at least when it wasn't urgent. When I got to the pads of course, no problem and the discs were OK too. Finally changed discs and pads last month after another 10000 miles.

I'm sure that will be correct. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

You can get the split boots from many motor factors - they are branded 'Bailcast' and are universal - not IS specific. As I said they are completely and utterly useless - you have to wrap a floppy rubber thing around a very greasy thing whilst keeping the edges of the rubber which you are going to glue spotlessly clean and free of grease. Do not bother! Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

They are a good company and source for parts - quite a few of us on here have used them. Prompt delivery - only take a few days and good prices. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Looking at the shafts I think it's likely that you can't dismantle them, at least in your garage with normal tools. The replacement boots advertised are split ones which you glue together - don't waste your time. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Rockauto. com list the shafts for about 80 dollars each. You'd need to add for carriage and tax but shouldn't be too bad. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

That's ludicrous - should take 20-30 minutes tops. But if they follow the workshop manual guide it might take that long! Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Congleton and probably, when it comes to car service parts, although I have no real basis on which to answer that. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

That's odd - I bought some Peugeot washers from them only this week and paid by credit card (MasterCard)

Yes - well respected brand specialising in Japanese parts. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

I buy K&N oil filters from eBay (search for PS-7023) and just the cheapest air and pollen filters on the day, again from eBay, likewise Exol Optima LSG oil and EBC Redstuff brake pads. I don't buy much from carparts4less for the Lexus, although I do sometimes use them for Peugeot, Seat, etc parts. . Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Yes! Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

I have used Dexos2 but have recently switched to Exol Optima LSG which I buy in a 20 litre drum for £60 - I service several cars (about 5) and use it in all of them. But £24 for Toyota oil is a good price - just buy 2 cans and keep the extra 3 litres for next time! Any good 5W30 is fine. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Re sump plug washers - the green ones are what I use - they are the superior ones. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Well, it also had the original engine, starter motor, transmission, etc. It's what you get when you buy an older car. You only get new standards if you buy new. Buy second hand and you have to expect to need to spend money on replacement parts, quite possibly on a regular basis. Even if the car did come from a Lexus dealer. Lexus approved just means that it passed a fairly detailed examination on the day - it's almost impossible to tell if electrical items are going to fail in some months' time.

Certainly not part of the Mot. And no more than a visual check (including electrolyte level when there are cell caps) at the service. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

The car would have been in transit and storage for quite a while. It was probably actually built in about August 08. No reason to change a battery (or anything else) if it still works OK. Presumably it was starting the car fine when you bought it? Modern batteries often fail without warning - just one of the hazards of running an older car.

Fair enough - you'll need the alternator checking as well. It's hard to tell if a battery is OK without a comprehensive test - just because it takes a quick emergency charge and gives reading for a while doesn't mean much Note that you are unlikely to get a type 068 battery at Halfords, and don't let them fob you off with something else (which might or might not do the job). The one you link to is a type 031 - completely wrong. Search for type 068 on Google - EuroCar Parts and Car Parts4Less usually sell them, but they won't list the 068 as correct for the IS250. That seems to be a secret known only to us on here!

Probably the battery is knackered - it happens. Suggest you just get a new one - you need a type 068 (rare - most likely won't be in stock in your local battery shop). You'll find people here recommend Bosch S4026 or Varta E23 (they are identical to all intents and purposes) A dealer will charge the earth, both for the battery and fitting. You can get one yourself and fit it for about £80 or so.

17" wheels have 225 at the front and 245 at the rear - factory fitment. 18" wheels have 225 front and 255 rear. Check your handbook for standard tyre sizes.

Hmm...I don't think it can be anything to do with power - the IS250C has the same power as IS250 and 200bhp-ish is adequate for basic towing. Maybe the IS250C has structural characteristics which make it unsuitable (or less suitable) for towing - it will have a whole lot of underfloor reinforcement to compensate for not having a solid roof. (I know it has a tin roof but it's not the same as having a continuous roof with no joints). It's why convertibles are a good deal heavier than the corresponding saloon and even then a lot of them are a bit flexi to say the least. (Ever driven a Saab convertible?) My MX-5 has quite a few add-on (by me) braces to make it a bit stiffer than standard, but you can still feel a good twist and shake on potholes etc.! (And you can't tow with MX-5s built after the type-approval towbar thing came in - that was about 1998.)

If it's the same as a hardtop IS250, it's only in Singapore that towing is not recommended. (What the hell is the difference with vehicles for Singapore?) Otherwise the tow limit is 1500Kg with a braked trailer or 560Kg unbraked. But note the oil cooling provisos above and the general warnings about adverse effects on the car when towing. (see handbook - in mine it's P171.) You can only fit a type-approved towbar for towing in Europe (inc UK) and if towing was forbidden in the vehicle specs you would not be able to get a type approved towbar.