johnatg

See attached pdf for troubleshooting. Height control.pdf

I very much doubt that it's skimping. I suspect that feeding the exhausts into one pipe smooths out the pressure variations - there are 3 pressure peaks per engine rev and the peaks from each bank will be out of phase with each other. So by feeding the peak from one bank into the dip of the other, you will end up with a smoother overall pressure wave and hence less noise. But then why separate out into two pipes and two silencers - was that for aesthetics or does feeding your smoothed out wave into two pipes and silencers make the wave less energetic still and therefore make it quieter? I think the latter.

Certainly not. The original is nicely flared with a proper Y joint. As for making more noise...hmmm....swap it for a Civic Type R? 🙂 (And I speak as someone who also drives a supercharged MX-5 with a Jackson Racing exhaust - and that's about as antisocial as you can get!) Horses for courses!

That's the 'snow' button /switch - S is the gearstick position - PRNDS!

Hard to say - I think it's all gearing, but it seems to hold the gears longer - ie use higher revs - in S mode. But as Paul said, you can use the PWR button / switch for more power. Both S and PWR make for less smooth progress, although S is good for country roads with lots of low gear corners - cuts the number of gear changes which actually smooths things a bit. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

'When the car was in Sport, the gear indicator number on the dash just read "4" and didn't change with the gears as it did when the car was in Drive. Is this normal?' The gear indicator on the actual dash panel shows the highest gear available when in S mode. You can change that, up or down, with the paddles. When you switch to S mode, it automatically selects 4. On older cars like this, the paddles only work in S mode. It still works as an auto - just on the lower 4 gears. Paddle up and you get the range 1-5 or 1-6. Paddle down and you get the range 1-3 or 1-2. etc. I keep the current gear showing in the information panel at the top of the dash - you select that with the display button on the steering wheel - it cycles through various things like outside temp and fuel consumption - and current gear engaged.. Once you get used to it, you can drive like a manual - select 2 as your max when you take off, up to max revs, paddle to 3, max revs, paddle 4 etc. By now you're well over the speed limit. All that is if you want to drive like a boy racer. It's fun, though! It can be useful to switch to S and paddle down to 3 (or even 2) on steep hills etc. That helps with engine braking.

You can delete the 'technically'! Keep the halogen bulbs handy!

Have you asked? If you have a fault and a warranty you might have a good case for getting it fixed!

Don't know if this helps - there are 4 of these diagrams - this is just one of them and I think is the most relevant - I think you're looking for item P1. It is located behind where I think your pics show you have dismantled. The other files have the same diagram but reference different parts of it. They show why IS250 electrics are such a nightmare! There are another 4 diagrams showing the wiring in the body (as opposed to the instrument panel) InpaneR-P4.pdf

I suppose that IS250s don't really have a throttle position sensor as such - one understands that would be a sensor in the throttle body, measuring the position of the butterfly. The IS250 has a motor in the throttle body, driven by the ecu and acting on input from the switch, or 'sensor', on the accelerator pedal - as per diagram. If there was no connection at either the pedal or throttle body I guess the engine would remain at idle and you wouldn't be going anywhere very quickly!

It's integrated into the throttle body - not accessible as a separate item. See pics for location and inspection. Further tests involve the Intelligent Tester - a hand-held piece of kit which plugs in to the OBD11 port.

Here is part of the circuit diagram for the clearance sonar system, along with parts location diagrams. Lexus seem to regard Clearance Sonar and Parking Assist as two distinct parts of an overall Parking Assist/Monitor system There is an extra part of the circuit diagram when the sonar system is linked to the parking assist functions, but I don't think that applies to Paul's and my cars. There are lots of pages of the workshop manual dealing with trouble shooting and testing and settings, but they all require the Intelligent Tester - that's a bit of kit which dealers have which is used for all sorts of things. It is not the same as TechStream which I don't think will help here. Intelligent Testers come up for sale occasionally, but they cost about £300.

That's right. Incidentally they don't work when covered in snow and ice. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Apologies - just something you wrote once! SportContact6 are no doubt brilliant (and expensive) but AFAIK they are only available in 19-23". For most cars PremiumContact6 replaced both PremiumContact5 and SportContact5. Unsprung weight is a key factor in handling - I was surprised that it made a big difference to ride as well. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

I recently fitted these - 17" Konig Ultraform Gloss Graphite from Wheelbase, fitted with Continental PremiumContact 6 tyres. I chose the wider rear wheel option but Wheelbase rang me and suggested they send 4 wheels same width (ie 8J) as the wider rear ones sit too far outside the wheel arch. They did, however supply wider rear tyres (245). This combination isn't actually offered on the website - you could get 245 with 9J wheels or 225 tyres all round with 8J wheels. But I ended up with 225 front and 245 rear on 8J. (Don't bother to criticize, Linas - I know you don't like Continental tyres). 🙂 They are brilliant - substantially lighter than the originals - they have vastly improved the ride (I suspect down to wheel weight) and steering sharpness (I think due to the tyres and the slightly wider track - they sit slightly nearer the outside edge of the wheel arch - slightly smaller offset than standard). Somewhat understated in appearance I know, but they somehow make the car look more aggressive without being in your face. I love 'em!

Not so fast - mine has the parking sensors at the rear - not at the front - but it doesn't have a light on the dash to say parking assist is working, it doesn't show up on the multi-information display, it doesn't show up on the satellite switch settings (only speed and tach are there) and it doesn't beep when selecting reverse. But it does beep (progressively faster) when you reverse up to an object. I can't just think of what Ian can check, but don't give up yet!

The body ecu (which is the body control module) has the OBD11 plug as part of it (in the bottom), if that helps to locate it.

Sounds very similar to recent thread on 220D over 130K miles. Possibly an injector leaking fuel into a cylinder when it shouldn't. Check the oil level - if there's any sign of it rising then take action immediately.

A very similar (but even cheaper) one which I use and which works on Android with an app 'Torque' - there's a free version and a paid for one (£2.99 I think) which gives more data. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autool-C1-V1-5-Bluetooth-OBD2-EOBD-JOBD-Scanner-Code-Reader-Diagnostic-Tool/112544094038?hash=item1a34269756:g:RRMAAOSwkWNZpRQN:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true These things work brilliantly giving loads of information and work with any OBD11 car. Only engine codes, though. A 'must-have' for Lexus owners is Tech-Stream - that's a Toyota-specific cable and software which works on Windows (so you need to get your laptop out) - that gives access to lots of information - codes for all the systems on the car and all the settings listed in the handbook which it says are dealer-settable. This is what Lexus dealers use to do a diagnostic scan and for which they charge £80 or more. Check it out on eBay..

Possibly the problem is a leaking injector. You should be getting more mpg - an external fuel leak wouldn't necessarily trigger an OBDII fault code, but an internal leak into a cylinder would. It wouldn't necessarily produce any significant symptoms when driving but there's a possibility of diesel finding its way into the sump. That causes the oil level to apparently rise (any sign of that?) and ultimately to diesel runaway (when the engine runs on uncontrollably on its own oil - until it self destructs.

From section 4.1.4 in the tester's manual: c. is what they get you on. HID bulbs are deemed non-compatible with lamp housings which originally were fitted with halogen. It will depend on your tester, but mine failed my car on this when he (same tester) has always passed them previously - new regs - even though he agreed that they weren't dazzling and had better beam control than halogen bulbs. I'd suggest you keep a pair of halogen bulbs handy to fit them for a retest!

I think it most unlikely that the wishbone bushes are worn at 55K. But the inner track rod joints could easily be if the steering has been turned when stationary on a frequent basis (town car?) Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

There's a door lock switch on the door console - if you lock with that I don't think the doors will open from the outside, even if the fob is in the car.

You can legally drive home or to a repair place as long as it's not a dangerous fail. Your old Mot is no longer valid once you have a fail. (Noisy wheel bearing is just major) But I drove home after a dangerous fail (low rear brake pads - less than 2mm - Lexus serviceability limit is 1mm) Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

I guess it failed on 'excessive roughness' - that sounds a bit subjective to me, especially if there's no actual play. This is what the tester's manual says: 5.1.3 Wheel bearings Vehicles with a DGW more than 5,000kg don't need to have rear wheel bearings inspected. Assess play in wheel bearings by either: rocking the wheels in turn while they’re jacked clear of the ground using wheel play detectors in the side to side mode Also, rotate each wheel to check for noisy wheel bearings due to excessive roughness. Defect Category A wheel bearing: with excessive play Major play so excessive it is likely to break up or directional control impaired Dangerous A wheel bearing: excessively rough Major likely to collapse Dangerous