Mini-man

Ok... I'll keep looking!! Just out of curiosity where abouts are you in SA?? Never been yet but have quite a bit of family just out of cape town??? Dan

Really smart looking car!!! To be honest i have never seen a white one before (really sets it off) I just wanted to ask a question about the exhaust you've put on!! Is it just the back box that you have changed or from the cat back?? Also is it possible to give me a link as to where to buy one from?? As all the ones i can find in stainless are all a bit boy racer for me!! Thanks in advance Dan

Normally on these engines, you will find that its coming from the hydraulic lifters on a cold morning. The oil is alot thicker in the cold so takes slightly longer for the oil pressure to build up. I found that the noise was greater reduced by putting a quality filter on and also swapping to quality oil. (i started using castrol edge and the noise went) Dan

First thing to do would be to get the car put on a diagnostic reader. (not just an OBD one!! You would need one that read specific data i.e ABS) I know that the LS series suffers from ECU issues but i don't think that reads the same for the IS. As with the LS it also brings on the VSC light. My gut feeling would be one of the rear ABS sensors starting to go don't. If this is happening the car would constantly be thinking that it has poor traction I.E wheel spinning and constantly trying to correct this. Could just be an air gap issue between the sensor and the pick up, but with the sensors not be mega money i would get the codes read and the change the sensor. (save messing about) Dan

Hi, I am after a drivers side front seat for a 2004 IS200 se In black full leather (heated/electric etc) Also for the same car i am after N/s/r door and a rear bumper. Colour code of the car is : 8P4-Montrose Blue Can collect Dan Remember to reply to this thread offering anything for sale you need to be a Gold Member otherwise it is against the terms and conditions of the LOC. It also applies to private messages offering articles/car for sale.

Does the rattle happen during normal driving? or more when you are going over a rough surface? First thing to try would be to drive at a set speed under conditions were the noise is most noticeable and cover the brake, if the noise stops or changes you know the noise is to do with the brakes. My money would be on the caliper pins worn. Also (not meaning to sound strange here) did the garages you took it to put it on a 2 post or a 4 post ramp. The only reason i an asking is that the suspension set up on the is makes it harder to diagnose suspension faults on 2 poster. In regards to the bottom ball joints, it would be first prudent to inspect them for play. If you can't get any play out of them its probably best to put a tiny hole in the ball joint gaiter and squirt some grease in, if the noise changes over the next few days you know you have found your problem, if it doesn't i would look elsewhere. As above i would have the other shock changes as a matter of course. If nothing found it next would be to look into the drivetrain? Did the garages looking into the centre propshaft support? of the propshaft UJs ?? Dan

Reading all the above posts i deffentally agree with rincewind above. You need to sort the cooling out way before anything else as by the sound of it, its the root of your problem. 1st thing should be to test the block/headgasket, which in my experience sounds to be at the root of your problem as they do give grief on the is200 (or have it tested/there are many different ways block tester, stiffer test etc) If that checks out the start with the thermostat, just completely remove it for the time being, (open bonnet, trace bottom rad hose to block and you will find a flange held on with 2 10mm bolts. Remove then remove thermostat and refit flange. Refill with water and test) Then test heater matrix remove hoses going into bulkhead and flush through with water refit/test etc Work you way around the system until you find the fault, but as i say above i would bet on the head gasket, as it would explain the system you are describing ( away if you have had the engine to such a heat were it will not start you have probably warbed the cylinder head)

Thinking about it there are 3 main reasons why it could of failed so quickly. 1/ Garage used a poor quality bearing in the first place. 2/ Could of been badly fitted ( It is very easy to damage the metal dust shield protecting the back of the hub when you are removing it, letting contamination in and prematurly wearing the bearing) 3/ I was going to say the 32mm retaining nut was over tightened but that really comes under point 2... And if that did happen 18 months ago i take my hat off to the garage, Even most good quality parts only come with a 12 month warranty, and standard labour warrany at a indepentant garage is 3months. So by the sound of it the garage had to pay... (instead of claining it back)

First do you have a reicpt for the last discs, by the sound of it if the calipers etc are all fine, I would say they have used poor quality brake discs. Stay away from brands such as national, veco etc and good for good quality ones such as TRW, or Mintex. ( they do cost more but the quality is vastly increased) There shouldn't be any need to modify the front of the car as from memory the front is designed to channel air towards the front brakes as you go along... And if you have bought grooved discs etc, make sure you fit them correctly as i have come across they many times fitted back to front...

Its not so much were to buy the kit from aposed to brand in which you are buying... Euro car parts do have a lot of stock but there customer servive is shocking in case anything goes wrong. Personally i get my parts from Andrew Page which i always find brilliant!! and brand wise make sure you go for a decent brand being timing belt related (i.e. Blue print as they do OE spec stuff for jap cars) Dan

This not always true (and i would like to say not to tar everyone with the same brush) I have had my Is200 for 2 years, in that time I changed the tyres to Avon ZV5's all round. Replaced the timing belt/water pump, regually change Oil/filter (castrol) also the gear oil and diff oils (castrol). also required discs/pads all round, two bottom ball joints and one wheel bearing,. It has gone through the last 2 MOTs with no advisories, and am now in the process of having the wheels professionly refurbished (and im only 24). And in fairness i do like the new fiesta, very well equiped inside and quite good looking from the outside. Easy to drive and great on fuel. (although wouldn't get ride of the lexus)

Hi, Nice looking car... Like the look of your exhaust! I assume you just went at with some emory cloth??

Thanks for the help... Why do they have to make things so difficult???

the gauge on mines not to good either, buts thats probably not far off because that will have 12volts in the battery, just not enough ampage to start it...

Hi there, At the moment I am trying to find some touch up pens/the right paint for my IS200. In the handbook it states that I need ''8p4 montrose blue''. However whenever I search for this colour all I can find is the same paint-code but a different description I.E. indigo blue. My question is whether these two are the same colour but with an updated name or whether I need to keep searching for the correct code and description?? Thanks in advance Daniel

Ha... Small world... I live in stalham... And if you want some were local to work on your lexus try DLH in bank street...

Really surprised you are finding it hard to get these, and good car accessories shop should sell these... My local chap (Motor-man stalham) has a large selection of these...

Listening to the video... Its sounds like oil starvation to the top end, i.e the lifters tapping, On any other car i would say strip the head down and replace the lifters and possibly the cams depending on the wear on the lobes? How ever i have not heard of the problem on the is?? Possibly the oil pump starting to break down? First things first have you checked the oil???

Not to sure what you mean there?? If changing them like for like just leave them plugged and move the motors forwards and backwards so you can get to the bolts. If aftermarket seats again it shouldn't really matter... Just move them about till you get the bolts out then bolt the new runners in... But aftermarket one would bring the airbag light on witch is a MOT fail...

Probably best to jack the car up and have a bit of pull about. First place to look would be all the ball joints (even though you say you've have some replaced- i have found the non genuine parts normally last 1/2 the time) i.e track rod ends, steering rack arms, wheel bearings and so forth.. Next you would need to give the tyres a good look over to see if they are running straight and true and are not out of shape If nothing found there you need to start looking at the 'u-j' of the steering column, not to sure if there is 1 or 2 on the is200 but if there is play in either of these you would get very loose feeling steering. hope thats of some help. Dan

Well its definitely not an mot failure... And i can't imagine that one from a breakers would be to bad as mine an 04 plate and they seem fine and i know theres an old 'v' reg sat at a breakers with a seized engine and they seem fine aswell(as i checked today)... But i am glad you got it sorted!!!

I assume you mean the back plate... would either look around the breakers or just leave it off...