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The main reasons I suggest buying another cheapo car for winter extremes is that in the UK, the models I suggest are available cheaper including Tax & Insurance than a set of winter tyres especially for my ISF, plus will still handle better than it in snow because low ground clearance makes the ISF completely useless for snow more than about 10 cm deep. Only major roads are ever cleared in any way at all, and because it makes a rotten snow-plough you never get to reach them. Additionally, damage is not unlikely on very slippery roads, and frankly bending a cheap "old banger" is no big deal by comparison. A storage service for tyres not in use just doesn't exist here and anyway, a cheapo car is more use for trips to dispose of gungey rubbish at the dump etc. than a pile of spare tyres. For an IS220/250, higher ground clearance means slightly deeper snow can be negotiated. Nevertheless, although it seems counter-intuitive; relatively wide tyres and significant power are factors which inherently make for poor traction regardless of tyre compound, FWD etc. - you could get about better in an antique Model-T Ford with negligible power and tall skinny wheels if they were still around. Realistically, here in the South of England, severe road conditions have so far been so unusual and short-lived that whenever it is possible - which of course it isn't always - it maybe better simply not to use the roads until they clear a bit.

Leave it in D with your foot on the brake unless you are going to be stopped for one of those endless traffic-light sequence or other lengthy delay, in which case stick it in N. If you use the parking brake in N, it easy to forget to let it off and then have the car beep at you, plus it won't necessarily hold you stationary if you use D. If you use N, just don't half doze-off and forget to put it into D before you put your right foot down again and then feel like a wally! No harm/wear will result if stationary in either D or N; but the fluid flywheel equivalent used for first gear will get hotter if stopped a long time in D (harmlessly) and its your fuel that heats it. The torque converter used in first gear acts like a coupling via oil between a finned plate at the engine and another at the other end of the same assembly connected to the drive train. When at tick-over in D, enough power is transmitted through this arrangement to allow the car to creep along. When stationary, the output from the gearbox is braked to zero, and the power/energy that had been available to make the car creep has to go somewhere, and is converted to heat. Basically if you stir oil with a finned wheel it resists the movement and generates heat (as per a classical textbook method to convert rotational mechanical effort into temperature-rise in a liquid etc.). In N, the driving finned wheel is disconnected so this doesn't happen. Either way, it is no big deal, and the only time to even think about it is if you know you are going to be stationary for quite a few minutes, when N is theoretically a more economical option - or for even more economy; switch the engine off. This is a simplification. There is a fuel-overhead involved in the process of restarting the engine to be weighed up against leaving the engine running. The real geek enthusiast could calculate the optimum delay for the engine to be switched off. I take the view that hot engines can be disinclined to start again, so usually leave it running ;)

"DISP" button on Right-Hand-Side of steering wheel. Changes display each time pressed. Just keep pressing it until you get to mpg etc.

Leave it in D with your foot on the brake unless you are going to be stopped for one of those endless traffic-light sequence or other lengthy delay, in which case stick it in N. If you use the parking brake in N, it easy to forget to let it off and then have the car beep at you, plus it won't necessarily hold you stationary if you use D. If you use N, just don't half doze-off and forget to put it into D before you put your right foot down again and then feel like a wally! No harm/wear will result if stationary in either D or N; but the fluid flywheel equivalent used for first gear will get hotter if stopped a long time in D (harmlessly) and its your fuel that heats it.

OK then, unless that was tongue-in-cheek & although not quite their intended use; horns work as anger-management for those who need it

Bearing in mind that the Horns can only legally be used as an audible warning of approach in situations like offset or hump-backed bridges where you can't be seen from the other side, and not at all in built-up areas after 11 pm and not to wake up dozy drivers at traffic lights, comment on other driver's mistakes or get the attention of pretty girls etc; I'm not sure who is the bad driver? Are you sure that is correct? As I understand it, your horn can be used at any point while moving to warn other road users of your presence. And can be used in built up areas after 11pm if there is a need for safety reasons to indicate your presence. What you say is true to an extent. The horn can be used to warn of approach when not otherwise apparent and could reasonably result in a hazard - but not for instance to buck-up someone dawdling a bit and never in response to something that has already happened. Night-time restrictions are partially down to local bye-laws, and I am sure you are right about using horns in emergency situations - although it is not easy to think what genuine safety reasons could frequently require hooting late at night when headlights etc. make a car's approach so very obvious. In any case, it is unlikely that anybody is going to be nicked for how they use their horns, and the best reason not to use them often is out of basic consideration for others nearby and a civilised tolerance of mistakes or shortcomings which are probably no worse than our own.

It could be a failing cell in the battery, the alternator/charging circuit, loose belts/wires/connectors or even just the battery indicator. With winter coming up and if the battery is getting on; it is probably worthwhile starting by replacing the battery or at least trying a known good one. Battery tests at well-known outlets may not show up faulty cells or other battery faults until the battery is seriously stuffed.

Bearing in mind that the Horns can only legally be used as an audible warning of approach in situations like offset or hump-backed bridges where you can't be seen from the other side, and not at all in built-up areas after 11 pm and not to wake up dozy drivers at traffic lights, comment on other driver's mistakes or get the attention of pretty girls etc; I'm not sure who is the bad driver?

This things will make your Lexus a bit less of a pig in snow - but still a pig and vulnerable to damage. Consider the cheaper solution of buying an old entry-level Corsa/Fiesta/similar for the infrequent snow we usually get in the UK. With a small engine & spindly tyres they are better in snow. Not only cheaper but neater to store, semi-disposable, and without the effort involved with fitting winter tyres etc. plus a great reminder how nice the Lexus is.

A lightened flywheel will not help - its a diesel and just wont rev up or slow down any faster. Also the US experience of non DM flywheels is nothing to go by - the IS220D doesn't exist there. But if more vibration is noticeable with a 6cyl petrol IS250, just imagine what it would be like on a 4 cyl diesel IS220D because the purpose of a DM flywheel is to smooth out power impulses particularly at lowish revs. Also, I think there is a possibility that with harsher power impulses transmitted by a non-DM flywheel; gearbox life could be compromised. Even if you were only to get another 95K with an OEM DM flywheel etc. bringing the car mileage up to 190k; would that be so bad?

Agree the horns are not wonderful - but whenever do you use them anyway? I don't think I have sounded mine since I first had the car, and that was just out of interest to see if they worked and what they sounded like. You rarely hear them being used, and even then usually when they are not supposed to be or it is actually illegal i.e late at night or when the vehicle is stationary.....

As far as the actual work in doing a straightforward service is concerned; you could do it yourself unless completely kack-handed. So a trustworthy independent is fine but just doesn't have the magic dealer stamp that prospective buyers like. I would not like to say if the resale cash advantage is really worth the extra service costs. Spotting potential problems and understanding any oddities you have noticed is something where familiarity with the car helps and Lexus Dealer service is more likely to have this plus easy access to manufacturer "fixes" for known issues - simply because they see more of what is after all a relatively uncommon car.

Unlucky I think.

Am sure the Kuga must be a fine car - but the rear end has to be the ugliest I have seen in years - but others may like it of course.

If this helps:-Using data reported on this forum, mixed Driving on Urban roads and Motorways at much the same speeds as most people - in other words neither dawdling nor racing to beat everyone else - seems to return on average 40 - 45 mpg for the IS220D and 30 - 36 for the IS250 Auto. Obviously, some will do much better and others much worse. There also seems to be much wider variation within the average for the IS220D. This is in part due to a real need to adapt driving style to suit the Diesel; but also for the various emission-control systems etc. to remain fully on song - which this forum suggests is less than entirely certain. All the extras you require are covered by MM (for multimedia) after the model No, and includes a reversing camera which seems like an un-necessary toy until you have had one. Personally, I think of the Diesel in the IS as OK in its way; but similar to how even a good Beefburger just isn't quite a Fillet Steak. Again, suggest you try Lexus Dealers. Their used-car prices are now competitive and every survey shows their aftersales/service is second to none - which I can confirm as far as my local Guildford branch is concerned. Even think about a Lexus extended Warranty - not because the cars are unreliable; but because as with most cars, an unexpected failure can bring a heart-attack sized bill, and my experience of their Warranty scheme is that they do not seek to find bizarre means to escape from coughing up as other providers may. MPG was not the main priority for me, and with the ISF I get about 22-23 mpg (and a bit worse in really cold weather) which I think is good for a 5 Litre V8 driven around at about the same speeds as everyone else. If you feel a bit enthusiatic, you can bring that down to 4-5 mpg and attract many blue lights and sirens. At the last count there are 190 of them in the UK since Spring 2008, so not exactly a hot seller. In a recession, hardly a surprise! Anyway, good luck with whatever you choose. There should be plenty of 220Ds & 250s in your price rance.

If this helps:-Using data reported on this forum, mixed Driving on Urban roads and Motorways at much the same speeds as most people - in other words neither dawdling nor racing to beat everyone else - seems to return on average 40 - 45 mpg for the IS220D and 30 - 36 for the IS250 Auto. Obviously, some will do much better and others much worse. There also seems to be much wider variation within the average for the IS220D. This is in part due to a real need to adapt driving style to suit the Diesel; but also for the various emission-control systems etc. to remain fully on song - which this forum suggests is less than entirely certain. All the extras you require are covered by MM (for multimedia) after the model No, and includes a reversing camera which seems like an un-necessary toy until you have had one. Personally, I think of the Diesel in the IS as OK in its way; but similar to how even a good Beefburger just isn't quite a Fillet Steak. Again, suggest you try Lexus Dealers. Their used-car prices are now competitive and every survey shows their aftersales/service is second to none - which I can confirm as far as my local Guildford branch is concerned. Even think about a Lexus extended Warranty - not because the cars are unreliable; but because as with most cars, an unexpected failure can bring a heart-attack sized bill, and my experience of their Warranty scheme is that they do not seek to find bizarre means to escape from coughing up as other providers may.

Unless you are desperate to save a little on fuel costs by going to 4-cylinder Diesel, suggest you very seriously think about the V6 Petrol IS250. There are many niggling issues with the IS220D which particularly affect economy, plus gearbox ratios that just seem wrong. You could well be lucky and have no issues; but you are very unlikely to find any with the IS250. I would suggest Auto (IS 250 only) even if you are presently wedded to Manual boxes, plus the Multi-Media version if within your price range. The Manual box is OK but the IS250 Auto is superb - silky-smooth and relaxing to drive plus actually more economical and cheaper to tax than the Manual version. At least hold off your choice until you have tried both, and consider Lexus themselves who are keen to do deals/discounts at the moment.

It is on the Europe Version of the software. Try This:- Press Start button, then press "I agree symbol" on screen. Press Info button (Bottom Left-hand button). Press Language screen symbol (last in list on right-hand side). A list of National flags & associated languages should appear on screen. Press the screen symbol for the one you want. Hopefully the buttons either side of the screen are in the same order in the Japan version. It could be that UK English is not included, but I would guess that USA English probably is. Good Luck!

The display menu options include language, but unless you can read Japanese, I am not sure how you would navigate to find it.

The clearance at the front and rear axles is the same, but the design of the rear wheel arches can make the rear look as if it sits lower from some angles. The ride height must have been chosen by Lexus as a compromise - any lower and sleeping policemen etc. will make things scrape and probably wouldn't improve handling (it rarely does and sometimes makes it worse). Any higher might look silly.

Sorry, not trying to offend anybody - Nitrogen is your choice, and you have ready access which makes it a perfectly reasonable choice..... But am still mystified why Nitrogen-filling ever came to be considered for filling car-tyres because there doesn't seem to be any reason to do it. Perhaps I am missing something, and maybe you could enlighten me.

I've been checkiing my tyre wear on a regular basis and found the optimum cold pressure for my style of driving on public roads is 40 psi (nitrogen filled), The fronts were wearing more on the outside and inside than the middle at 36psi and 38psi. I have new super sports on the rear that are slightly wider than standard (275's) and so far they are also wearing evenly at 40 psi. but I'll continue to monitor them. Regards the brake dust, the Hawk performance ceramics I have on my IS-F have reduced the problem on the BBS wheels (they are 12 months old now) and I have yet to see any problems on the bodywork. I am not aware that Lexus US have addressed the problem at all for the IS-F, although they have issued ceramic pads for both the IS250 & IS350 following complaints of excessive brake dust. The problem with the OEM/Brembo IS-F pads is different than that of the 250/350 pads; it isn't just the amount of dust but the ferrous content in it. Why Nitrogen in the tyres? Air is 78% Nitrogen anyway and the leakage/dispersal rate for Nitrogen is only about 10% better. The temperature/pressure relationship is close to the same. Yes, Nitrogen is safer if the tyres choose to burst and catch fire at the same time and inherently safer to compress. Also being inert, Nitrogen will not corrode the bits of wheels/tyres that normal campressed air takes decades to affect. The downside would seem to be that regular checking of tyre pressure is a good idea - but always lets some out, and nitrogen is not as freely to hand as air to pump them up again. Garage air-lines often accumulate water/moisture which isn't good - but the tyre-pumps you plug into the car cigar-lighter and foot-pumps do not unless you pump up tyres in the rain. Sorry, but unless I'm mistaken; filling tyres with Nitrogen seems much akin to drinking bottled water.

It always makes sense to change oil filter, oil & plugs and air-filter element if they have been in place for some time. But before spending anything on a different air filter, just take it out - which will give you the best possible air-flow, and as an experiment no risk of damage due to dust etc. I think you will find the OEM filter does not limit airflow to this engine, and a filter that could theoretically allow more air to flow is not going to help because the engine cannot demand extra flow. As for iridium plugs, there is no evidence that the reduced breakdown voltage of a smaller gap is any advantage - the spark may be more intense but is also physically smaller, so I think the best bet is to stick to the manufacturer's recommended plugs. The IS200 just isn't sporty and would need a minimum extra 50BHP to make any real difference - and that won't happen until you go as far as superchargers or the like. Also, the trouble with the IS200 is that it is so smooth it seems more sluggish than it is. It is also ultra reliable with just normal maintenance which should include changing the cam-belt at the appropriate interval of miles or years to avoid very expensive damage if it breaks. The ST220 is not a bad car - it is basically a Mazda tricked out like a Mondeo and obviously all the more reliable for that. It is roomier, a bit faster, but even thirstier and made by Ford which sort of cancels out Mazda quality & reliability.

Glad you are pleased with your ISF and am sure you will enjoy more and more as time goes on. The Tukami Process - I think you may mean Takumi (Translation: Artisan or what we wouls think of as a proper tradesman)which refers to an elite of manufacturing technicians with proven skill and experience being used to carry out or oversee checks at the key stages of production to ensure quality. You would hope that all manufacturers use people who know what they are doing in this way but perhaps they don't? It would be exaggerating a bit to describe this as hand-finishing when the Tahara plant and the line used is one of the most highly automated in the world. But at least the cars are finally evaluated by actual human beings at the top of their game and each car is given a real road test. I think the Lexus difference is that if anything is found to be even slightly sub-standard; it is put right where other manufacturers may take a more "that'll do" attitude unless it is a serious problem (and not always then). The correct tyre-pressure range does includes 40 psi if you are not going to exceed 140mph - when it needs to be increased up to 46 psi at max speeds. Personally I find for public roads about 39-42 psi gives about the best compromise for handling/road-noise/comfort. The only problem you will definitely find has been widely detailed on this forum: Brake-dust including ferrous metal content coats the paint on the sides of the car and the lacquer of the wheels. The metal fragments arrive hot and embed themselves into the paint and wheel lacquer. These fragment quickly oxidise making particularly the wheels look rusty unless regularly cleaned away. This does get much better after a few seasons when the paint and lacquer toughen and resist this more. Maybe ceramic pads lessen this, but it would be hard to tell because the issue reduces with time anyway. The fuel consumption displays are not to be regarded as absolute or very accurate, but give a useful idea of relative consumption i.e. if it is going up or down. As always, the best way in the long-term to gauge absolute consumption is to keep a running note of fuel bought against distance travelled. The consumption will be enormous if all the power is used; but on the daily run when traffic limits your speed & acceleration to what everybody else is doing, low to mid 20's is easily attainable.

None of those will or can make the slightest difference to performance. A different air filter could change the sound it makes but that is about all. The IS200 is heavy and needs serious measures to increase engine power to make it perfom significantly better. Don't be deluded into thinking things like new air inlet tubes etc. will make it any better - even Lexus would have noticed if a cheap plastic tube did the trick and would have fitted it.