Herbie

This may help (it's for a USA RX330 but they're basically the same body shell) but if not, there seems to be a fair amount of possible info available by doing a Google image search for "RX400h sunroof drain" (without the quotes) which is how I found this: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-2nd-gen-2004-2009/648923-sunroof-moonroof-leak-2.html

Isn't that what most people call a garage Les?

And that is exactly why the new MOT test rules were introduced last year - to try to stop people doing this. The science of automotive lighting is very complex and housing units are designed with specific bulbs to populate them; LED housing - LED bulb; halogen housing - halogen bulb. You will of course, do exactly as you want, but could you live with yourself if it was proved that you caused someone to have an accident after they were dazzled by your incorrect bulbs?

There won't be any problem with cheap bulbs, just wrong bulbs, ie, LEDs where halogen should be.

Just up to date crap now! TomTom or Waze/Google Maps on my phone are better. I can have it all programmed in and be on the move before I've even got the post code in on the Lexus nav.

Why would you be shocked and stunned? All main dealers know how to charge better than a wounded rhino but, Lexus being a luxury brand, they have refined the art to unprecedented levels. It does beg the question as to why you didn't do said research first and why would you go to Lexus main dealers for a bulb anyway? I use main dealers only as a last resort or when it's something specific that no one else makes, such as an oil sump pan or something, but I would never even dream of using main dealers for bulbs, wipers, tyres or anything along those lines.

There's no "supposed" about it. It takes about 20 to 25kV to strike the arc and about 90V to maintain it. Even with the lights off, the capacitors in the igniter can still pack a punch.

Cheers Barry, thanks very much.

Thanks Jeff, that's good to know.

Yep, that clicking noise indicates a duff battery. It has enough power in it to activate the starter solenoid but when the solenoid contacts pull in to send 300A or more to the starter motor, there isn't enough power in the battery to do that, so the voltage drops enough to deactivate the solenoid. With the solenoid deactvated, voltage climbs back up high enough to pull in the solenoid contacts again and the whole process repeats, hence the rapid clicking noise, commonly known as solenoid chatter.

If the bulb housing is meant for a halogen bulb, then anything other than a halogen bulb in it is an instant MOT fail, so I think you'll just have to get used to it.

You're welcome Sam, glad it's worked for you. Happy motoring!

Thanks Barry

Will do, thanks chaps.

I think I already know that the answer to this question will be "no" but I may as well ask the hive mind. My centre console armrest seems to have given up the ghost and died. I passed my driving test in June 1975 and I've had numerous cars since then with centre consoles and/or armrests and absolutely none of them have ever broken. Given that, and also given that it's a late 2013 Lexus that's only done about 47k miles, I'm wondering if it may be covered by the Lexus Extended Warranty that we have on the car? In the first photo below two little plastic inserts have broken and no longer retain the springs that they should, whilst in the second photo you can see that both screw posts have broken so there's nothing for their screws to drive into. I have no idea how this happened but it was 'all in one go' as far as I know, unless I missed something breaking first which led onto a second event, but I doubt that. So, warranty or not, do you think?

That's right, the tail light fuse is the 10A one, second in from the right on the top row, and the stop light fuse is another 10A one, further along that row to the left. I hope it is just the fuse so that it's an easy fix for you but if not, get it straight back to the dealer you bought it from because it's their job to put it right. Unfortunately, if it was a private sale then I think you'll just have to sort any problems yourself.

Hi Samantha and welcome to the club. The Instrument Panel J/B is what you're looking for and it's located in the passenger footwell, behind the glove box:

I'm still not convinced by this. Section 8.2.1.1 of the MOT Inspection Manual states that the inspector need only check items that are "visible and identifiable" such as catalytic converters etc., and if it's missing then it's a Major Defect (a fail). HOWEVER - that inspection is ONLY for vehicles that must have a full CAT test. Most cars only need a Basic Emissions Test (BET) and if they pass that then that's it, no need to go on to a CAT test and therefore no need to inspect the cat. It's also worth noting that hybrid cars do not need any sort of emissions testing so it follows that a missing cat should not be a fail. I also believe that even given the above, the exhaust system still has to be visually inspected but, crucially, only for security to make sure it's not going to drop off and/or that there are no leaks.

Ah, right, I didn't realise that - I thought it was ducted to receive air from the aircon.

I would very much doubt it - I doubt if they would put air ducting in for the ventilation if the model variant didn't have it specified at the factory, but someone more knowledgeable than I may come along to put me right. I'm just thinking that heated and vented may be for top of the range, so they wouldn't waste money on installing ducting on a lesser model.

Sounds like a stripped gear or something along those lines. I think that at the very least you'll need to find a workshop manual to see how to get in there. If you search the forum I'm almost certain that someone provided a link to one that could be downloaded.

It's probably just the colder weather dropping the pressure a bit. Drive it around for 5 minutes and as the air in the tyre heats up, the pressure in there increases and will put the light out again. Probably just needs topping up a little bit. Always adjust tyre pressures when the tyres are cold, either before the car moves anywhere or a couple of hours after it's been parked up. EDIT: Some Youtube videos showing how to replace pressure sensor batteries if that really is what's needed: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=gs300+tpms+battery+replacement SECOND EDIT: The system may just need to be reset, so have a look down that list of videos and you'll see one or two showing you how to do that.

Excellent result Andy, but why not just post the photos directly in here? Clicked on the first photo and it took me to Imgur and, silly me, I then thought that clicking on the 'Next Post' button would take me to the next photo in your sequence - but it was something to do with a lion! Each time it opens a new window to Imgur which then needs to be closed down to come back here and click on your next one, which does the same thing again, whereas uploading them here in your post allows us to see them all in one operation, in sequence.

Any further details for these Barry - make, model, where to buy etc., etc? I don't need them for the same purpose as you but I could use something like that on another project.

Hmm, curioser and curiouser as Alice would say. I've scoured the workshop manual but absolutely no mention whatsoever of an oil level switch other than how to inspect it (as in Step 5 of that last picture above). No mention of where it's located or how to get to it, no mention of electrical resistances or anything. The only clue as to its location was found in the following illustration from 7zap.