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cleverdick

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Everything posted by cleverdick

  1. I've had Blueprint pads on for about 3 years now, and really have found them to be OK. But I agree, OEM is always the safest course of action. Before throwing good money after bad, however, I'd suggest thoroughly cleaning the caliper slide pins and re-lubing with genuine Toyota lithium soap-base grease. Also, if you have a dial-gauge, check the runout on each disc and rotate through all 5 positions to find that of minimum deflection. (+35 microns is the maximum permitted, I think, measured at the outer edge of the disc.)
  2. Good afternoon, I would not recommend fitting used parts in this application. It should be possible to obtain what you need at a reasonable price, if you are willing to import them. However (as per my experience), this can take some time, and also there is the matter of import duty to pay (although I have no idea what this would be in Sweden). I have no experience of Bilstein dampers, and would always say go with genuine Toyota if possible. However, look at Gabriel as well; I had some Gabriel RedRyder shocks fitted to my 1983 Ford Granada and they were sooo smooth it was like a magic carpet!
  3. Here is the letter I've been waiting for! Of course, no explanation or apology.
  4. The seller certainly doesn't appear to have a very good command of the English language. (But then, he probably isn't English!) Unfortunately, our vehicles are now falling prey to the lower elements of society, who know nothing (and much less care) about them. This is borne out by the number you see turned into - or treated as - racing cars. The same thing happened with Mk2 Granadas some 15 years ago. Once the book value drops below a certain threshold, it becomes inevitable.
  5. A replacement unit could be the easiest way out of your predicament; there is no reason why it should not be compatible if everything looks the same. Is there any sound from the loading motor? If so, then it could be a failed belt, split worm gear, etc. I can't be more specific without detailed photos, I'm afraid.
  6. I am not familiar with that model specifically, but might be able to help if you could put up a few pics of it in its disassembled state.
  7. Looking at the photos of the drive units, I'll be as brave as to say that the ML branding is simply badge-snobbery. There's nothing remarkable about these speakers (they've not even neodymium magnets for goodness' sake)! And the baskets are pressed steel, too (as opposed to die-cast) - although this is not as bad as the plastic which one very famous brand has gone over to! For cone repairs, I'd strongly recommend DK Loudspeakers in Spring Gardens, Romford, Essex. David has done many drive units for me over the years - including a sagging 12" Leak Sandwich 600 LF unit (Chris S. take note!). :)
  8. OK, as promised... Import VAT seems to be the problem! So now I have to fill out a form :( (Scans are not automatically resizing in the Firefox browser. Click the picture to see in full.)
  9. I absolutely will as soon as I get the paperwork - it was all being sent directly to the garage (and I've told them to keep everything).
  10. Thanks - does indeed look like a mistake. Frustratingly, there doesn't seem to be any way of challenging it before paying!
  11. Back in early October, I ordered a pair of rear UCAs from Amayama. Well, as expected, they've now turned up at my regional Parcelforce office with a fee to pay. Guess how much? (The parts cost £340 including delivery.) £246. That's right. Nearly 75%. So I've had no choice but to pay it, and will now have to complete a form in attempt to claim some of it back (on the basis that this is clearly wrong)! Seriously not pleased!
  12. What a mindless numbskull! That comedy steering wheel looks pretty lethal, too. I wonder what became of the airbag, horn and CC connections? All this will have been declared to the insurance co., obviously!
  13. I don't normally go in for the blingy stuff, but I must admit they do actually look good and add a subtle touch of extra class. Where did you get them? Are they liable to crack?
  14. Ah well, it now says "shipped"! So I presume that when they say "ships in 7 days", this means "gets shipped within at least 7 working days of the order being placed", or "takes an estimated 7 days to arrive once it's actually been shipped". Clearly I was being naive in thinking that it would take 7 days in total from the order date! Anyway, the parts are being sent directly to the garage, so it will be interesting to see who gets the ransom note.
  15. Worryingly slow, in fact.... Some of you will have read that I placed an order with Amayama for a pair of rear UCAs. This was on October 9th. Looking at the order, the status was changed to "purchased at supplier" on October 14th. Since then, that same status has not changed, even though it's been updated every day. This would suggest that the goods have not yet even been sent. And it's now past the 7 days quoted for delivery. Oh, and my MoT expires on Wednesday. Am I expecting too much?
  16. Just caught sight of your post (although normally I reside in another part of this forum). The original Lexus ethos will have long gone. (You only have to look at their cars these days; they don't stand out like the original LS400 IMO). Moreover, the dealer will probably have only recently taken on the franchise, having last year been a VW dealer, the year before that a Honda dealer, the year before that something else etc. etc. So what can he possibly know about older Lexus vehicles other than what the computer tells him? If I turned up at Lexus Southend in my LS400 they probably wouldn't even have seen one before. (A few years ago they had a Rover franchise.)
  17. I'm not sure there is a castle nut, but maybe there are spanner flats on the section that is hidden by the small rubber bellows? As I said it won't be me doing the work; I'm just curious that's all.
  18. I do believe that the Celsior did not have a sunroof as standard. Whatever - in my opinion the sunroof on the LS400 is one of the worst aspects of the car. A glass-topped sunroof is no good (especially when you're a bit thin on top) because you just get sunburn on the top of your head (even when in tilt mode with the shade open just a crack). Ford got it right with the solid sunroof that still afforded shade with the back edge tilted up. (I don't know what they're like now.) Also, the LS sunroof is prone to collecting debris/dead leaves etc. between the shade and the glass. It's a hassle to keep clean, but it can be done with a miniature vacuum cleaner pipe and brush normally used for computer keyboards and suchlike.
  19. £340 not including any import duty. They haven't arrived yet - it's now the estimated 7 days. Still trying to work out how it will be possible to undo the lower balljoint nut where access is so limited - and also, what's to stop the whole ball turning round as you try to undo it?
  20. Today I gave all the relevant bolts - including the lower damper bolt - a good dose of Plusgas ahead of the 'operation' next week. Two questions concerning the actual ball-joint nut: 1. It looks pretty inaccessible to me. How does one get a wrench in there when the CV joint is just below? 2. What's to stop the ball itself rotating when you undo/do up the nut? (Is it keyed in some way?) Not that any of this will be my problem... Except when I get the bill! :-0
  21. No advisories on rear springs, and struts seem OK (although the rubber boots have of course fallen down). I did have to replace the tank on my previous (1990) LS for exactly the same reason - it cost best part of £100 I think! In fairness, I can say that of all the cars I've had, this one has taken up the least time of any of them! (Believe me - Ford Granadas are much, much worse!)
  22. Interesting viewing - not a job I'd like to do, but then again, would a professional mechanic take the trouble (or remember) to mark everything up carefully before removing? A case of "if you want something done properly"? Anyway, UCAs on order - watch this space! R
  23. Good to know! Is it necessary to compress the spring to lift the damper up out of the way, or can the hub drop down enough to lower the UCA down and out? (If you see what I mean...)
  24. If you could send me the link to that vid it'd be great - I can't seem to find it. Thanks again, R
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