ambermarine

Mike Good idea and please let us know how it turns out for everyone's future reference.

Mike Go to Google and type programming remote locking for 1999 Lexus Ls 400 , several sites will come up check out the clublexus and the automotiveforum.com They are a good source.

Hi Mike Just picked up your thread and the issue with the ignition switch. I have not replaced mine and have had a couple more incidents were the the electrics have failed and a touch on the ignition key resets it so I am fairly certain that the switch is the problem and the contacts inside are at fault as this is a common fault on the Mark 4 and various other manufacturers models it is also fitted too,I have concluded there is a design fault that creates this scenario. Because of this I have not replaced the switch and as I am now aware of the problem and its symptoms I deal with it when it rarely occurs, 4 times in 10000 miles in my case. To remove the switch it requires the removal of the panels below the steering wheel above the drivers footwell ,the screws and fastenings are all relative to each panel and garnish and great care is needed in remembering where everything fits back together,to make things easier it is better to remove the cowl around the steering wheel as this gives better line of sight to the area you are aiming to expose. The switch fits on to the end of the ignition barrel and is held in place with a screw ,the ignition wiring plugs into the switch body. Good luck with the job, the switch is available from Lexus and is also available on the web from other sources and cheaper than Lexus.

The requirement of Gas and oil would be the difference in the amount required for a ls430 with rear A/C and a Mark 4 LS400 which as no rear A/C the amounts are available to the A/C guy through Manufacturers info so he should be able to deduce from that the amount required,which is the same as a Mark 4 LS400.

It is probably as easy just to put in a new sensor ,they are cheap and not difficult to fit.I fitted one in my Mark1 and it did resolve the problem which was much the same as yours

Rudy You do well to still have that car and have every right to be proud,I owned a Mark one that was a 1990 and had it for 16 years it was 21 when I sold it and it as now been scrapped as the new owner did not buy it for keeps. I like you have been lucky to own this Icon of the time and still enjoy the looks my Mark 4 gets as it wafts along with the classic style of a thoroughbred.The rest of its attributes are for me to enjoy, as the driver is the only one who can.

Hugh I can well understand why no one wanted to fabricate that pipe, it as more bends than the Brenner Pass,I am of the same stand point on faults if I can't fix them as soon as they appear it bugs me and as you say if contributors have nothing constructive or helpful to say don't contribute.Good luck on the refit. I had cause to take out my battery last week and as you did, discovered a lot of rubbish under the tray, I cleaned it off and there were a couple of rust spots were the screws for the tray have been welded on .The water and detritus looks to come in through the gap between headlight housing and the rad/condensor. It is a trap and I suppose overflows from filling the windscreen washer reservoir get in there as well.Remedial work carried out and another preventative job completed.

If you leave the alloys without washing them the brake dust will turn them that colour for no cost.

I concur with Malcolm on the paint job ,apart from the fact the removal of garnishes does more harm than good they never go back on as a factory fit and will look bad afterwards.If the respray is attempted with them masked up the paint job will look very bad.To do a proper job on the doors the plastic lower panels should really be removed. The depth of paint required for the lustre that is there now cannot be achieved with a respray or any amount of polishing.

Rudy In the USA your Dis/ space would invoke a $500 penalty if violated .I suggest you put a notice on same stating anyone wishing to park there does so under US law and the equivelant exchange rate apples on the day. If nothing else it will give them food for thought.

I may have caused a bit of confusion with my post regarding the ride height sensors .The levelling of the headlights was my point which I did not explain very well and I may have misled you as the ride height sensor on the air suspension may have a different function.

The ride height/levelling sensors are a requirement on the car regardless of air or mechanical suspension, as the attitude of the car is dependant on loading .The car will fail its MOT if they are not operating properly.

I think there are some tutorials on US Lexus owners club.

Looks like another Mark IV as gone to the breakers yard ,apart from the body damage the car was flooded with seawater.Terrible end for any Lexus.

You will be hard pressed to do this job without the correct equipment ;Bearing extractor and bearing press ,these are items carried in workshops and to that end it would be a lot easier and safer if you took it to a garage to have the job done. It does not have to be Lexus , a reputable independant will be more than happy to do the work.

It worked for me , I will try to upload it as an attachment. It won't load as it is a 22mb zip. If you have got on the usLexusowners club forum try finding it in their archives,sometimes you have to mess around to get these nuggets.

Jake. For a complete service manual for the LS400 Mark IV try this, us.lexusownersclub.com/forum/topic/74783-service-manual./zip Scroll down to contributer billdpowell and type in the address he provides.You will then get the download be careful it is not protected.

Went for a jaunt to Devon last week and as it does in the UK in summer it rained on the the days I was driving. I discovered a new gizmo on my Mark IV ,the windscreen wipers go to slow intermittent wipe when the car comes to a halt,I have probably not noticed it before because we never come to a halt up here in the highlands, there is no traffic.

Take it back to your supplier ,it is guaranteed for at least three years.

check you have a fully charged battery ,take out the dome fuse and replace it .leave the car for 15 minutes with the key in the ignition but not switched on .

When you say you have tried all the usual methods ;What are they?

It may be a loose connection either from the gearbox or into the combination meter .I don't think thumping the dash is a remedy highlighted in the workshop manual.The only way to determine the problem is to remove the combination meter and check the impulse coming from the transmission and to be honest this is a specialist task,for which you will need a wiring diagram and a workshop manual Another solution is to get a working S/H unit from ebay and determine connections that way ,it will also determine if the connections are OK weather the clock is faulty.

Took up the offer and asked for the extra lettering at a cost of an extra £5 .I was truly dissapointed when I received the shirt a week later. As you can see they stuck the letters in the reg plate so they are hardly noticable.They sent me a survey last week which I responded to with my dissapointment on the appearance .I cant believe they have responded with an offer to do it again to my liking for another £15. To be honest the quality of the shirt is ok and the image not bad but the lettering service lets the product down.

The battery discussion as been charged and re-charged so many times it is inevitable members will come up with their own solutions.The best tried and tested method and more so with the 98-2000 LS is a constant battery charger/ monitor.I use a golf caddy charger/ monitor that I pulled out of the recycling skip and they are ideal because they are specifically designed to be left on all the time,it has a minimum 2.5 amp output this is important so as not to overtax the charger.A lot of the digital chargers sold on the internet and in stores have a .75 amp output and it just not enough, the chargers burn out in a short space of time. Colin is right in that small usage of the car leaves the battery open to discharge in about ten days and that kind of cycling will kill the battery in about two years, battery monitors subject the battery to the kind of charge / discharge it needs under daily use with the drain taken by the alarm and electronics of the car's electrical consumption. I know that some members are not able too hook up to mains chargers and solar chargers can be the answer if that is the case,again go for the highest amperage output if you take this path.

Great result.