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I cleaned and regreased my front slider pins using your excellent guide. I'm not the most competent mechanic but it was straightforward enough so would like to do the rears as well. Is it the same process for the rears or are there any additional steps or advice you could give?

Thanks in advance!


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Glad it helped

There's a different process for the rears but just as easy.


1 / Wheel off

2 / Remove the pins holding the pads - there will be 4 of (2 securing pins and 2 holding the pads in place) - don't lose the securing pins as they are hard to get and expensive when you do find a set

3 / Remove the top calliper bolt. From re-collection, this is a 19mm bolt. Once the bolt is out if will need a good clean. It is inserted within a rubber housing which will still be on the calliper itself.

4 / You will now be able to rotate the calliper down (swivelling on the bottom fixed slide pin) It if will not rotate out then its seized. If it has seized then with a bit of perseverance you can almost in all cases free it but gently does it with a rubber mallet.

5 / If free then rotate it fully down until it can be removed from the calliper housing.

Its basically as simple as that. Unless it is seized that is.

Inspect the rubber boots - you can remove the top rubber boot, clean and re-insert back into the housing with no problem. Inspect the lower rubber boot carefully as this one is the important one of the two as if it is perished it will allow water and dirt in causing it to seize. A good choice of slide pin grease is essential to stop the rubber boots being the wrong one used.

Make sure the bottom slide pin housing is greased - you want to make sure its coated but not too much. You will find a lot of the grease collects at the end of the housing. Make sure the inner top rubber boot is sufficiently greased - place a bit of grease on the pin itself as this will aid in it going back in. When I do mine I grease them, remove them and then re-fit just to make sure it feels smooth - it will also allow you to assess if you need a bit more grease.

When ready to refit - it is the opposite from removal ... but, as you have applied the new grease you will more than likely find you have a small vacuum and the calliper will not fully go back into the pin housing, it just needs a bit of rotating around until the air inside is expelled, you will feel it coming out as you are rotating the calliper. If grease oozes out then there's too much applied - make sure to clean the excess as it will attract dirt.

Its a good time to check the rubber boots around the pistons on the calliper. Give them a clean - I will do this with WD40 (both the piston and the rubber boot)

When re-assembling, give the two pins that hold the pads in the calliper (ones that run through the pads) a very good clean as it will help the pad movement when braking. I use sand paper to clean these.

You should look at around 15 to 20 minutes for the job.


Hope this helps



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Can't  thank you enough, mate. Very thorough!  I've never dabbled with brake pads and it's the fiddly bits I lose patience with. I'll have a look anyway. Thanks again


edit: I'm using red runner grease, can't remember the brand (not Castrol)

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58 minutes ago, WetMyBeak said:

Can't  thank you enough, mate. Very thorough!  I've never dabbled with brake pads and it's the fiddly bits I lose patience with. I'll have a look anyway. Thanks again


edit: I'm using red runner grease, can't remember the brand (not Castrol)

You have done your fronts - you will manage the rears no problem. Just take your time. It is an easy job and one an owner should understand as if not regularly greased the pins WILL seize. I do mine every 6 months - doesn't take long as you will find out and its good to understand how they work.

I use Toyota rubber grease for mine - have done for a while with no issue but a lot of people use different greases with the same effect. Just don't use anything that will attack the rubber boots (a lot of the greases wont state compatibility on the tub)

Pictures below are from the post I made on how to change the rear disks but will show the parts in question - picture 2 below shows the calliper rotated to its lower pointy before removal - the top bolt is visible still in the rubber boot. At this point it will slide off. It looks like I didn't take the pads out first when I don't this.


Picture 6 below indicates the pins holding the pads in the calliper. There is only 1 securing pin (arrow 1) securing the pins in the calliper. Arrow 2 are the two brake pad pins that hold the pads in the calliper that need to be cleaned. Once the securing pin is out then the pins can be tapped out with a hammer and a nail punch or something similar.


The image below is of the brake pad pins after a clean - they wont be spotless but you should be able to get them smooth (rustless)


As well as this, re-apply copper slip to the shims before putting the pads back in to prevent brake squeal.

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I've done a bit of research on this as I was fed up doing this job every 3-4k miles. Apparently Silicon grease (water resistant) is ideal for the job. Cheap and easily got. Small tube. 

I checked mine after 4k miles following application of this new grease and they did look a lot better than usual. Usual bit of dirt but pins were less rusted and seemed freer. 

I don't know the exact technical reasons for this but I'm sure someone here can shed some light!

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A lot of owners will use differing greases that they find suitable - if you have found one then that's good, continue to use it. I use the Toyota red rubber grease. Its designed to lubricate the pins while not attacking the rubber boots and its what I will continue to use after years of hassle free use.

The slide pins should have no rust on them at all - they may get discoloured over time but not rusted. If they are rusted then moisture is getting In somewhere - more than likely through the rubber boots. If the pins are pitted then there's dirt also getting in. The rubber boots may look in good condition but just check their elasticity. They need to be able to seal tightly over the grooves on the pins effectively preventing water and dirt getting in. You will also find that the calipers will not operate effectively if the wrong grease is used as the rubber anti rattle shim on the top pin on the fronts will fail and cause a bit of friction when the brakes are applied stopping them from moving freely - could be associated to the issues with seizing calipers?

I had tried silicone grease a long time ago but I presumed the heat got to it as when I came to clean the pins the grease was black coming out after 6 months (was red going in). All the times I have cleaned recently when using the Toyota rubber grease it has come out the same colour as it has gone in. Do not use copper slip. It works ok acting as a grease for the slide pin but it is petroleum based and will over time attack the rubber boots.

Every 6 months I do mine, for the sake of 1 hour work tops I think its worth it compared to the cost of replacement but saying that, I reckon I could get away with a year before cleaning them. Just being a bit over cautious I guess. Gives me a chance to check other brake components while doing them and clean the muck from other components.

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Thanks Newbie, that's all really helpful.

I'm now not looking forward to the state of the silicon grease when I check it next!

I think, as you have used the Toyota grease for many years and it has been very successful, I'm going to switch to it. The boots were in a good state the last time I checked so not sure what is happening. I'll investigate further. It's a simple job as you said - it's just that repetitive jobs frustrate me :wacko:

Thanks again - great advice throughout the thread.

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