Amp Cuts Out. Sub Coils?

[sorted vti]

hey.

ive had problems before with this problem, where i had to buy a new sub and amp.

what happens is, that the amp cuts out after a while of playing. im guessing it is heat building up.

when this happen before i melted the coil in the sub, which in turn burnt the amp out. or at least i think it was that way round.

what has happened now is that its been cuttin out again. i turn the stereo off then on and it turns the amp and sub back on. but minutes later it cuts out again. the sub cone seems to be sittin further into the box now too.

ive put another sub in the car and it seems to be fine.

but why is it doing it?

am i running the sub and amp too hard? is there a problem with heat build up in the boot of the lexus.

ive never had this problem before and ive always played my music loud.

also what is a reccomended sub to go in the auto acoustics factory stealth box for the is200?

any help would be appreciated.

cheers

neil

[redz_UK]

hey.

ive had problems before with this problem, where i had to buy a new sub and amp.

what happens is, that the amp cuts out after a while of playing. im guessing it is heat building up.

when this happen before i melted the coil in the sub, which in turn burnt the amp out. or at least i think it was that way round.

what has happened now is that its been cuttin out again. i turn the stereo off then on and it turns the amp and sub back on. but minutes later it cuts out again. the sub cone seems to be sittin further into the box now too.

ive put another sub in the car and it seems to be fine.

but why is it doing it?

am i running the sub and amp too hard? is there a problem with heat build up in the boot of the lexus.

ive never had this problem before and ive always played my music loud.

also what is a reccomended sub to go in the auto acoustics factory stealth box for the is200?

any help would be appreciated.

cheers

neil

reasons could be endless..

would think the amp has bee given a 'clipped' signal which in turn has damaged the sub which then puts the amp into protection..

what amp and sub??

what is the box volume?

[DJ Wozza]

would think the amp has been given a 'clipped' signal which in turn has damaged the sub which then puts the amp into protection..

I kinda agree with Redz,

distortion either from H.U into amp and then amp sending a clipped signal to the sub

or amp being driven too hard and sending a clipped signal to the sub.

I would suggest an amp upgrade/swap for a while to see what results you get as a first option.

Remembering from your boot i can't see heat build up being the reason as they seemed uncovered ??

the clipped (square wave speaker signal) causes the speaker to go from bump stop to bump stop,

causing it to overheat the glue in the coil and the glue starts sticking to the pole and seizes the speaker solid,

this is normally accompanied with a burning plasticky smell.

re the stealth box, from memory it is a very small sealed enclosure, so you would need a sub that is designed

to work best in small sealed boxes. check their website for the box volume and pick a sub to suit the specs.

[sorted vti]

cheers guys.

its an alpine v12 amp and was a kenwood sub (700w peak).

i must admit i have the stereo set half way for full volume and the amps turned up.

would i benefit more from having the stereo up louder and turning the amps down?

ive not got the amps turned right up so i dont feel im over powering them if u know what im saying.

volume of the box is 21 litres. how would i search for a sub to suit? without having to search thru every sub on sale.

http://www.autoacoustics.com/sbn-lis200.htm

cheers again

[redz_UK]

has the sub now died??

you are looking for a sub that works in a 0.74 cu ft box but you also need to take into account the displacement of the speaker..

i will have a look tonight but i think your options are going to be limited.. it is a case of search and see what will work as most people do it the other way round, speaker then box..

the mb quart dwg302 will work in the size..

whats your budget??

[84Stoney]

i must admit i have the stereo set half way for full volume and the amps turned up.

would i benefit more from having the stereo up louder and turning the amps down?

Yes.

The amps would not have to work as hard. Therfore emitting less heat and possibly less distortion.

May not solve the problem, but can't hurt!

[sorted vti]

yeah it probably is the best way to find the sub first then the box, but its more that i dont want to take over my whole boot with a sub box.

yeah the sub that was in the box has now died i think. i dont want to risk using it in case it fries my amp. like the last one did.

havent really got a budget as such, but dont really want to spend fortunes. maybe £100 might be a start. try and aim for a sub around that sort of price.

i do like lots of bass. so the most powerfull the better. but not forgetting the sound quality. if it costs more then so be it.

where would i search and what shall i type in the search bar to find a sub that meets the sub box requirements?

[DJ Wozza]

have a look for a brand or two that you like, narrow the subs down to your budget, then look on their

websites for suggested (sealed ?) box dimensions closest to your box.

[xup]

Sorry to drag an old thread up and i dont know if you got sorted or not but this looks like it could be ideal for you situation:-

http://www.justkenwood.co.uk/speakers01/kfcwps1200f.asp

Rob.

[DJ Wozza]

Good find Rob :D looks like it will be good for a shallow box, but the box interior volume total still needs

to be 22.6 litres (sealed or ported design). You could use some accoustic wadding to 'fool' the sub into

thinking it was in a larger box.

RANT ALERT

The one thing that grinds my gears with most of these audio companies is how they rate power (input or output).

Peak input power 1,400W, Maximum input power 700W, Rated input power 350W

What puzzles me is big manufacturers still state information in such a ridiculous way !!

How can the Peak Power 1,400W be more than the Maximum input power ?? Surely Maximum Input Power means

EXACTLY that. Maximum Input Power !!

It can't mean stick 700W through this continuously and it will be fine and won't end up in a smoking heap ?

I'd love to see 700 Watts R.M.S put through this sub for an hour or two (if it lasted more than 5 mins it would be

an utter miracle ! Surely they mean (but don't say) suitable for amplifiers with an output of 300-350 Watts R.M.S !!

RMS (root mean square) Watts @<0.5% THD (total harmonic distortion) is the useful one rating and is very

seldom included. I would guess the 350W Rated power is the important information from above, but rated input

power could still mean just about anything.

Arrrrrgh :tsktsk: :tsktsk: :tsktsk: