D8driver

Hi, Since I'm looking at the same problem I allready did some research. I preferred not to to go HKS, Apexi or Greddy with extensive mapping an bigger injectors (expensive and imho. to much hassle for a rather small problem). At the moment my motor light sometimes comes up while accellerating and the car doesn't run perfect with airco on. Found a few options: Change the petrol damper for an an old fashioned hollow toyota petrol filter plug (MR2 sw20) for more flow and alter the pressure regulator in the petrol pump slightly (pressure gets higher and the problem will be solved but the downside is that it will stay this way so the mixture gets too ritch while not accellerating....) At the moment I'm talking with FSE and waiting for an answer. this firm delivers perfect fpr's (for approx 50 pounds) that can be adjusted and work on motor vacuum but only on the rails and not for systems with the regulator ond the fuell pump (as mentioned above, ther is no fuell return line on the IS). See what they will come up with.

I did realize it's another SC. Might be interesting to phone a Merc dealer about the compressor. The SLK M62 eaton Kompressor (with magnetic clutch) used to be classified as service free but the guy I spoke told me nowadays they do check oil levell at a regular basis (so they might be able to specify the right type of oil). I know a guy that put Castrol 60 gear oil in it without any problems. this might be interesting http://www.capa.com.au/eaton.htm

This might be helpfull http://www.clubgp.com/cgi-asp/mods.asp?modid=13

Had my 18" alloys (TTE) refurbished with matte black epoxycoating (for my winterwheels) and have to say it looks stunning in combination with plat ice and red calipers (had several people saying it looked perfect and standing out from all those plain silver wheels, even when the GS of a friend equipped with 19" chrome wheels standing beside of my sportcross )

Hi, These "Trd" skirts come from an Italian firm called lester http://www.lester.it/it/rivenditori_area.asp?area=europa And they cost around 200 Euro's These Glassfiber parts from Ebay are a direkt copy from the lester skirts (they will fit and look o.k. but if you never worked with Glassfiber and epoxy to make them fit better you'll better leave them alone).

The dampers can still be ordered at Intrax but no there will be no guarantee. However I know a car that fitted them and I liked the ride, a bit firmer than standard with H&R springs but you get control over your car in return. Step in some Audi's or Beamers and you know what really harsh means.....

B+G is a swedisch investment firm that decided to step into car tuning (and allready stopped since it was too much of a hassle to get a good name....) These are rebadged Intrax coilovers which normally cost approx. 1080 Euro's. Think the quality is approx the same as the cheaper Biltstein kit an more for track than road use but definitely not bad and always better than just lowering springs.

typically a diy job. Took me the most of 1 day but the result looks perfect and the stuff will hol for years....

Please do check if one of the wheels is getting much warmer than the others, if it is and you keep on riding this might get expensive.

Not enough pressure on the belt (or old belt), order a new (Contitech) belt and you'll be fine. If you hear a howl or hissing sound at 5000 rpm while pulling through it's definitely the belt (furthermore do a search on te uprated spring and see if the new one is mounted). succes!

For sporty riding on a charged IS it does (if you know how to use it). For the average IS owner in a standard IS 200/300 it's wasted money.

LSD on a rearwheeldrive car can be tricky but only with too much power, lowered and with the wrong geometry. An Is normally is on the save/controllable side ( I have it on my 280 bhp Donkervoort and on such a light car it can be fatal in the wrong hands). By the way: try a Focus RS and you know what will happen with LSD on a fWD car (once it starts working you simply can't steer for a few moments which is very scary if you're not prepared....)

I combine an Pioneer AVIC DVD 900 with the standard audiosystem. Must say I like it a lot, navigation quality is much better than the o.e.m. system Biggest plus for you is that systems can be picked up second hand for small prices and since recently new software was released, the system will live for another 2-3 years.

Hi, I suggest you take a look on LOC Eu (but I admit that German is a bit hard to understand). Several LOC members are driving around with Gas systems (some with problems). You might consider a lube systems and some brands are better than others but general opinion is that Supercharger and gas don't mix too well (Imho. VVTI and gas isn't the best combination) and it's best too choose a installer that has done several IS200 before (conversion might take more time than some installers estimate so get yourself a fixed price). Best place for a refilller cap is right next to the petrol one (dual system) in that way no one will see your on gas....

Have you tried to reset the Ecu (unplug the battery). Won't hurt so it might be worth a try.

Know someone that tried some H&R springs on the TTE coilovers (which are basically Bilstein dampers plus Eibach springs) but after that (with the TTE/Eibach Arb's fitted) they still gave a lot of comfort. If you want stiffer go for Kforce or KW var3 coilovers (but the Arb's still are a good mod. although TTE stopped supplying them). If you want a cheaper option: take the TTE springs and buy some yellow koni's. Makes a very good/stiff combi for not too much money (approx 500 Euro's)

Hi, Erik. German forum is the appropriate place to as questions about left hand steered cars (some things used on right hand steered cars simply don't fit). I'm in Holland and you could pm me for questions but basically If I was looking for a 1999-2001 (after that the sport was discontinued) I would go for the best equipped car with full history you can get (LSD is a bit overrated with the power output of an IS and everything else can easily be modified. Prices over here for a good car start at 10.000 Euro's but a low mileage post 2000 car with full history will cost a bit more.

Other tip: margarine works perfect if you want to remove tar spots/stains from your paint. and: if you put some of the high gloss liquid for your dishwasher in the last two buckets of water you clean your car with, no chalk stains wil appear (in fact wash boxes use the same stuff to give your car a bright gloss)

Please feel free to use peanutbutter but don't come back complaining your car is surrounded by chimps..... :P

Hi, You're welcome but hope you're more into tuning than into internet: take my advice and remove your e-mail adress asap or spybots will spam your mailbox full with crap. Will mail you Regards. Hi D8driver, i am pleased to hear from a dutch owner. I live in Elsloo. About 15 kilometers above Maastricht. I would like to talk to you in dutch. Is it possible to communicate through e-mail with you?? If you want to i could learn more about the TTE kit. My e-mail adress is gilissen7@msn.com Hope to speek to you soon.

Hi, Don't know where you're from but if it's not to far from Utrecht you can have a ride in mine (to have an impression of the compressor). Cheaper would be to watch the for sale sektion on the UK/EU forum. For less than 1600 Euro's you'll have nothing and you'll have to be quick (kits seem to go with lightspeed......). If you buy secondhend, look for a complete kit with the original TTE airbox (CAI won't work on left hand steered cars) and silver ecu is a plus (especially if you want to keep the original pre cats). By the way, you're right about the dutch dealers not doing the compressor anymore. Their mechanics are imho not the best in market (at least when customizing and never really understood the way the compressor worked (and probably managed to block the by pass valve entirely... which caused some serious damage)

I agree but over here dunlops are cost 20% less than the overrated michelins. Vredesteins are even 10% cheaper and do te trick allmost as good. Toyo, Bridgestone, Nokian etc. are much cheaper but don't perform that well on Lexus and I would rather choose a good all weather/summertire over these. By the way over here we need good mud/wet condition tires. The real snow tyres are more for scandinavia.

Michelins are o.k. but Continental or Dunlop wintertyres are just as good (and much cheaper). Don't know if Vredestein is sold in the UK but Snowtrac/wintrac tyres have very good price/performance

Beware there are two different versions. The smaller decalls for the side of your car (I do like these), or a bigger version for the rear. Third option is the chrome TTE logo for grill mounting which looks good. Ordered some yesterday but you'll need a credit card for payment.