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plastic orange

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Everything posted by plastic orange

  1. My parts came to a total of £376.49 as follows Timing Belt l13568-59095 £37 Idler Cam Belt L13503-50011 £61.26 Chain Tensioner L13540-50030 £45.80 Idler Cam Belt L13505-50030 £60.51 Pump Assembly L16100-59276 £92.43 Thermostat L90916-03100 £13.39 Thermostat Gasket L16346-50010 £2.62 V Belt L99366-D2230 £14.37 VAT £49.11 Total £376.49
  2. I got mine here: http://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/ Pete
  3. Mine were squeal free for a day, despite everything moving freely and dosed with copaslip.It doesn't squeal when brakes are applied, just when it is driving normally. I think it must be something to do with the blueprint pads. Pete
  4. I stripped pads out today and re copa slipped them - everything moved freely, and squeal now gone. I'm sure it will return though. Pete
  5. I fitted Blueprint discs and pads about 4 months ago, and yes they now squeal too - only when damp during first application in the morning, but unfortunately now constantly when driving (almost inaudible unless window down). This is despite plenty copaslip to prevent this happening. The squeal didn't start right away, but it is starting to get annoying now - I'll have to investigate further - maybe a common problem with Blueprint parts, although they generally get a good reputation for quality. Pete
  6. Getting the indicator assemblies out isn't as easy as just pulling upwards from the bottom and outwards as described. I was convinced I was going to break mine by simply pulling with my fingers, so I used a large screwdriver as a lever to pry them out (protecting the surrounding paintwork I may add). They popped out remarkably easily without any damage using this method. You can then access the 2 bolts behind the light fitting,the other 2 being readily accessed. The headlight fitting just needed pulled and twisted to get it out of the aperature - I was changeing sidelight bulbs. Pete
  7. Myy 99 LS 400 has a non illuminating drivers side temp gauge, but i've not found a cure for this yet. It also has the washer bottle light on all the time - it is apparantly caused by the float in the bottle becoming porous and sinking. I'll be fixing this now the better weather is here. Pete
  8. As far as I can tell, they have a 3 year paint defect warranty, and a 12 year body perforation warranty. What the terms are for the 12 year warranty is open to interpretation I'd guess. Pete
  9. A shocking sight. However, my son got £2k off the price of a new Abarth 500 for his old Cavalier - he was pleased as he only bought the Cavalier as a stop gap when he had his car written off by an inattentive driver. Having said that, the Cavalier was very low mileage and was almost mint condition, but he had 2 years out of it. Pete
  10. I had a similar problem, and went with the top suspension arms as a first cure. It wasn't this, it was the discs. There was only a very slight runout on 1 of them, but enough to cause shake. It may be worth your while getting them skimmed on the car. Pete
  11. I changed mine when the belt was changed, and on close examination it had started to leak. It's really a peace of mind thing. Pete
  12. I fitted Blueprint parts (similar price to above) - no problems since fitting. I believe that Blueprint parts are the closest to original. Pete
  13. Cheers, I'm not really bothered about having this feature - I just wondered why they weren't working if fitted. I'll have a dig around to see if anything is actually connected. Pete
  14. My 99 LS 400dhp has what appears to be parking sensors on the rear bumper, but I've never heard them operating. Is there a switch to turn them on, or were all bumpers just made like this? Pete
  15. I'd say that's expensive - only about an hours work. I got mine done for £30. Pete
  16. Now sorted :D Once I knew that it was only a matter of force, I used a large screwdriver at the lower edge of the indicator unit and pried it out (used a leather glove to bear against to avoid paint damage). It actually didn't require much force - in fact I know it would have broken had I continued to use just my fingers to pull it out. Headlight came out no bother, and all bolts replaced using copaslip (and the studs on indicator unit) for the next time. Pete
  17. That's what i'm trying to do on your old car. It seems that you have to remove the headlight (3 bolts), but to access the outer bolt you have to remove the indicator assembly. I'm having difficulty with this at the moment (without breaking it). Pete
  18. I need to change the front N/S sidelight bulb (surprised that there was no indication on the dash to say it was out), and am having difficulty removing the indicator assembly to get access (Mk 4). The owners handbook says to remove the philips screw, then pull up the base of the indicator unit and pull out (forward and up). Well, I've tried, and it seems that it may break if I use any more force. Any ideas? Pete
  19. I found it amusing too. Too much doom and gloom these days, so feel free to amuse us further. Pete
  20. Make sure there is no shudder when braking from higher speeds (60+), no wandering on poor road surfaces, no clunks from suspension, auto trans changes cleanly, and cam belt has been replaced. Deduct some cash if any of the mentioned is a problem. Pete
  21. Problem solved with new discs/pads. Old ones don't look bad at all - only done around 40k. I'll get them skimmed and keep as spares. Pete
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