Zotto

Actually it covers also electrics, as I read: m) with reference to the electrical components: Starter motor, Alternator, Coils, Windshield washer pump, Relay direction indicators, Horn, Airbag spiral cable, Electronic ignition control unit, Relay, On-board computer (Trip Computer), Window lifter motors, Window lifter buttons, Mirror adjustment motor rearview mirror (motor only, no overall), radio control keys (only electrical problems), Solenoid central locking, Airbag sensors, central locking control unit, internal light control unit, indicators instrument panel, clock, speedometer and speed sensors, electric seat motors, cigarette lighter, heaters seats, Motor headlight height adjustments

Reading the Italian site the warranty, named "Lexus for You" is for all mechanical parts not subjected to wear, at no cost. For hybrid system there is the H-Care to be made during servicing that trough Hybrid Health Check extend warranty for a Year. Anyway, it is not unlimited in time, but it can be made till 10 years life of vehicle. Letterhead (d3rvezpmgp265q.cloudfront.net)

AFAIK last Lexus model can be in EV till 115 kph.

Here the page from Italian site, I am a bit lazy but google translator may help: Garanzia fino a 10 anni | Lexus Italia

At my last service in August here in Italy, my RX passed Hybrid Care test , that means that all hybrid components are under warranty for another year or 15.000 km (till next programmed service). With this new Relax Warranty, the warranty is extended to all mechanical components, excluding only those subjected to wear (like i.e. brakes).

I don't know details, but from video it seems that doing a service in official deals every year the warranty over the whole car is extended till next year. Something similar was already done with Hybrid parts, while now should cover even mechanical components.

During time, I noticed a slight descent of quality, even during restyling of same model, but with a substantial improvement in real prices. When a new model enter the market, first cars appear being more verified in all particulars, in time some option only present in top versions are furnished in lower ones too, at same price or less, but the overall quality is always maintained. Another reason of this light worsening in building accuracy may be that some models are not made in Japan, where the working philosophy pays more attention to perfection and continuous improvement; even the model is the same, there could be a difference in precision accordingly to the plant. About restyling, may be there is costs optimization too to diminish a bit the perceived quality of some less important features, but only the not important ones. Everyone can make a premium car without budget limits, making a premium car that has costs reliability and lastingness like Lexus is a typical Japanese job.

Linas, I had all types of car and I well know the differences between FWD and RWD, but you are quite too biased toward RWD. In normal use, for power till 250 HP, nowadays FWD car are easier to drive and more intuitive to a not pilot driver. That does not mean that RWD today are dangerous, as various electronic devices help to have a safe driving, but , if you are not driving a high power car FWD behavior is more intuitive. What a unexperienced driver does when, on a slippery road on exit from a curve, car tends to go straight? He brakes, and increases steering angle: this is a positive reaction in a FWD car, where in a RWD one is not the proper maneuver (I do not stay here explaining why as you should know). So, if an expert driver may have more fun with RWD, putting car in drift (but only after disengaging electronic helps), a normal user could find this "dangerous". Even in other examples you have described, having steering wheels that pull toward the direction you aim to, is easier to manage. A different topic is the traction , that, at least when moving from a standstill, is more effective where you have more weight, in our Lexuses weight is usually well balanced , but in some cars, even more when power increases, having weight on front and traction on rear is not a good option. I am sure may people remember how RWD old BMWs had to be used only in dry weather... Of course, in modern cars you have no problems till tires have grip , without difference between front or rear traction.

Here a couple of links about difference between FWD and RWD FWD vs RWD - What's Better? (autolist.com) Front-Wheel Drive vs. Rear-Wheel Drive | Pros & Cons (autosimple.com)

If you have a laptop with windows, definitely a mini-vci cable to use with Techstream.

Good tools, using "single pin" one you should succeed in doing the work. When I had to do something similar I used a tiny screwdriver for watchmaking.

I agree, better trying the car to make own idea and understand if you feel comfy; hybrids with eCVT are slight different from usual cars, some people love them while some other find it annoying.

Not at all, you easily see on the instruments , till you are in "charge" zone without you reaching lower point braking is only regenerative. In last hybrid models you can't distinguish where brake pads engage; what you write about progressiveness is a problem of (very) old hybrids.

You can use manual and select the (virtual) gear you need. Meanwhile, light continuous braking recharge HV battery.

Also RX has not snow mode, only old models. And here an example of NX on snow: Lexus NX 300h Hybrid Off Road In Winter Slippery Сlimb - YouTube

Probably you have to insert a little pin or screwdriver to ply the block ledge over each contact at the extremity of each wire, then you can pull it from the old plug and insert in the same position to the new one. Be careful to not change position of wires!

Rotating wheels is useful to have same wear on all tires. When doing it in wheels with TPMS you need to be careful to avoid damages to them, but a good tire dealer knows how to do it properly. Actually I am talking about rotating,tires , rotating wheels does not requires to dismount tires.

HV battery CAN'T run out, because they are recharged by thermal engine. 4x4 mode actually is AWD, meaning that you don't have to select a "mode" but ,provided you have a AWD NX and not the only FW version, the system automatically activate the rear electric motor when necessary.

Having a receiver on each side, car recognises the nearest TPMS signal as the valid one to be shown in that position.

Hi Vlad, AFAIK in some cars there is only a receiver for TPMS sensors , so it needs to memorize the position where TPMS is, in our Lexus cars there is a receiver for each wheel housing, so the registration is only to link TPMS to car.

In my former GS 300h and now with RX I regularly rotate wheels and no troubles, , wheels position and pressure are correctly read. Else, if you add another wheel set with TPMS sensors you need to register them in car ECU.

Due to eCVT gearbox way of working, in hybrids when you release the accelerator pedal you have a light regenerative braking, similar to the feeling you can have in car with couple converter automatic gear, with the difference that , accordingly to speed, Thermal engine can be OFF or may keep rotating at idle rpm with fuel consumption at 0 or very low because it does not gives power: when thermal engine is ON it's just because in this way electric engines MG1 and MG2 do not exceed rpm limits. This working state is NOT coasting, as , even if very light, there is an energy recovering that mainly compensating electric fixed consumptions and HV battery charge. You can notice this giving a look to power indicator that is just a bit in "charge" zone. To have a perfect coasting , energy flux has to be null, and the reading on power indicator has to stay exactly at zero point between "charge" and "ev" zones: if you go lower you are in regenerative braking, if you go upper are in EV driving, maintaining speed or accelerating without requesting power from thermal engine; if you or the system need more power thermal engine switches on. So, how can you drive in pure coasting mode? You need to press very slightly the right pedal verifying you ar at zero point of energy flux, this is equivalent in only thermal engine cars to be in N. Someone could ask "hei, isn't easier to move to N position from D the clutch lever?" The answer is NO, because if you go to Neutral you loose the energy recovering and discharge HV battery. So, the main rule with eCVT hybrid cars is to AVOID N all the times you can: at stops keep in D and brake depressed or in P.

Partially No 🙂 You justify this because there is a extra weight to move, but, at constant speed, it does NOT affects fuel consumption. Of course to reach and maintain that speed a lighter and more aerodynamic car uses less energy (lighter to reach a aerodynamic to maintain). The right comparison should be between a 2.5L TD and a 3.5 L aspirated Atkinson

May be the topic has slighltly changed during debate, from "has a NX a good mpg performance in motorways" to "is a hybrid SUV a right choice to drive at 200 kph compared to a diesel?". Coming back to original question, and considering "normal" motorway use, a Hybrid SUV is quite comparable for fuel consumption to a diesel. And this is valid for cars too. Besides, when traffic increases, mpg gets better because of energy recovering during braking hybrids do it and diesels not (excepts and only partially in mild hybrids diesels); that 's the reason where best mpg are achieved in city driving.