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RoadRash

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  1. Wouldn't you get problems with ignition and cam timing or such?? 285HP with the SC, that will work?? Same setup as me?? I don't have an SC.... I have a TC. And I don't plan to put NOS on it. A few guys here blew up their VR6 engines with that crap..... Which compression are the new internals running?? 8.5:1 or such or more?? Raise rpm-range?? Did you get an aftermarket ECU or such?? Or is it possible to program the stock ECU? But sounds interesting..... :winky: I'm also planning to get forged internals next year to raise boost. But I'm not sure if I will really realize that..... At the moment it's important to get the clutch and flywheel, and at all to solve that stupid fuel problem, but I think we got it, where the problem is. We bent the wastegate bar to turn the turbo to the right direction. But we bent too hard I think, so the wastegate opens too late and the boost shoots up to 0.7-0.8bar. Means we have to bend it back a bit. The MapUnit cuts the fuel, as it seems.
  2. What did you do to get 260HP?? Also TC or SC and NOS or something??
  3. Do the Helix-clutch systems work fine?? No vibrations or something?? I guess yes, they are ok..... right??
  4. OK guys..... I'm unsure, I got so much pro and contras... What should I choose?? I don't want to hear "It depends on how much power you want to have". Simply what is better?? Light FW + organic clutch or Light FW + paddle clutch Let me know and I will go, Mike :)
  5. Does the ALtezza clutch fit to the Lexus IS200??
  6. Yes.... it already got weak before the turbo. I also think that I have to do something to solve that problem. ;)
  7. Hi! Last weekend we tried to get some 0-62mph times. We couldn't get under 8 - 8.5secs. WHY?? Except of the fuel problem at 4000rpm (because the boost gets to 0.7bar for short and the MapUnit doesn't support the fuel there), we noticed serious clutch problems. In 1st gear the clutch slipped almost the whole time where I was in 1st gear, then after each shifting into next gear it took a moment until the power got 100% to the transmission.... means it also slips at shifting. At all we lost a lot of time, so we have been pi**ed because of the long 0-62 time. So my question is, if anybody with the TTE-SuperCharger or any other power-upgrade also had this kind of problem?!?!? Maybe the turbo gives some more torque than the supercharger..... And who already got a clutc upgrade which works pretty good or far better than before?? Any experiences?? :)
  8. Don't really know how to calculate such to take care of HP, Turbo, compressor wheel, piping length, piping diameter, IC size and so on.... I don't think that it would be a problem to get 400HP out of a 280HP setup. ?!?
  9. from your pic,s RR yours looks that size, please can you let me know the size of your cooler mate, it will fit but its keeping it there ie! fixing points ;) ← I already sent you a PM.... mine is smaller thinner and not the height of 12"!! ;) And as Mat(e) said.... you will have more lag..... forget it..... it's a 2.0L engine you can't boost it up so that you would need such a monster of intercooler.You don't have a Supra with a T78/T88 MonsterTurbo. I just can feel some lag until the power gets at work.... maybe also my IC is a bit too big. Get a smaller one... really! :winky:
  10. 24"x 12"x 3" ??? Good luck mate and please don't cut anything off only to fit the IC.... That's too big, at all you wouldn't need it in that size. With this IC size you will have serious fitting problems..... Try to get a smaller one.
  11. Hmmm..... I think I got a wrong intercooler, because it's far bigger than on the picture of the turbo kit. (sent you the pic via PM). But it was hard to fit, the space was very narrow on the top, because in my opinion the IC was a bit too high. We needed longer screws for that alu-bar in the front because the iC was a bit thick and high, so that the huge alu-bar in the front didn't fit there like before. You're planning 380HP?? I hope you're only dreaming..... OK the clutch shouldn't be a problem to change, but you'd have to exchange valve springs, pistons, rods, maybe camshaft...... I wouldn't know where I could get that..... :duh: Well rods and pistons I could get, but valve springs, camshaft and maybe other stuff..... the tuning market for the IS200 isn't the biggest as you can see. At all the IS200 isn't the best platform for a real performance car. Quite you can boost it up a bit, but the border is close.....I'd say to stop somewhere in the 300-340HP area.... it's far enough. The IS200 is very light in the rear and doesn't have a traction like a Supra. The Supra is long and heavy and is able to get the power down to the street. I'm sure my IS200 doesn't have 240HP now (in cause of the fuel problem), and I just have to take care at accelerating on wet streets. The HKS coilovers give much better traction than the stock suspension of course, but after raising boost or such.....
  12. I just got down to the parking place and measured my intercooler piping. The alu-pipes are 50mm and the silicone hoses 60mm. I wouldn't go bigger, because we had to dent the upcoming piping to the inlet, because there was very small space between cooler and pulley. I wouldn't choose a too big pipe. If you're trying to hit the 250-350HP area I'd say 50mm is enough and you are able to fit it better than a thick pipe. I also thought "EH?? Such thin pipes???" :o But then I was really happy they haven't been thicker.
  13. How much power or torque can the Helix clutch take??
  14. Yesterday we tried to adjust the AF ratio..... very strange thing we noticed. The Lambda is OK up to 4000rpm, suddenly it raises up to 17:1 or more, at about 5000rpm it gets down to 13-14:1 which is OK. It seems like any electronic problem. Maybe the MapUnit or anything responds a bit too slow. In first gear everything is OK from 1000-6500rpm... in second quite OK and the higher the gear the worse the Lambda at 4000rpm. Maybe really a fuel system problem, but why gets the Lambda OK again at 5000rpm?? Well, but when shifting into 2nd or 3rd gear we have a power lag at 4000rpm, so we couldn't take a 0-60 time. Don't really know where the problem could be now.... Maybe we can solve it via ECU or such, or other injectors, or we really would have to upgrade the fuel system?!?!? :duh: We will see... ;)
  15. THX @ mates Today we will see what we can do. I noticed in 4th gear and higher speeds, that I can reach a boost level of only 0.3bar. Maybe it opens the wastegate or the high-rev straight 6 needs at high rpm more air, than the turbo can support, but I think it's another problem. At lower gears and speed it flies away you can't believe. @marcus Do you really make it via custom work?? That's an awsome project if you can realise it.... wow!! Which turbo is it now you got??
  16. Got it! :D We solved the fuel-cut problem. The MapUnit was wong connected. We also spliced the S-AFC in series and not parallel. Today I removed the S-AFC wires and tried..... WOOHOO!!!..... 0.5bar boost. BUT..... :o 16-17:1 Lambda...... I spliced the S-AFC parallel and look there.... I got a Lambda of 12-13:1, perfectly for Turbo. For HiThr I put +28% of fuel and it runs rich enough. The max I can do is +50%, so if I want I could raise boost level with the boost controller. But *** da*n.... that baby pulls..... very hard.... simply wow.... Tomorrow we will fine-tune the AF ratio and adjust the boost controller. Then we will see..... :winky:
  17. Yes but not every injector type fits, also there are a couple of different injector types. Which type is the IS200 injector??
  18. @Steve It's OK mate.... didn't know that. :winky: @tdiplc Not sure.... the S-AFC put out a correction of +5% of fuel at 0.2bar and the O2 gauge shows 12:1 Lambda. We will see what happens after I can go over 0.5bar. At the moment it runs quite good at 0.25bar or such and pulls far better than before.
  19. @TDIplc Which injectors could be used to get more fuel??
  20. so where does the unused fuel go when there isn't a return line ? ← The unneeded fuel runs out on the street, because you don't need it any more... .... Joke :winky: No... the fuel pump always runs at 100%. The fuel regulator is like a "turn traffic sign"...... when you step on the gas for only 10% or such, the engine doesn't need much fuel, so the fuel reg. give you only a bit fuel and the fuel pump although runs at 100%, so the rest of fuel gets throuch a return line back to the tank. It's only a circuit. When you get down to the floor with the accelerator, the fuel reg. gives you all the fuel you need and only some fuel gets back to the tank. The next reason why we have this system? If only the fuel pump would adjust the fuel, it would take some seconds when you put the gas down, until you get the fuel, because the fuel pump takes some time to spool up. So with a fuel regulator you get the fuel immediately. Checked?? :winky:
  21. YEP! The sensor tells to the ECU a positive pressure and the ECU thinks that there must be an error so it changes to the emergency-program and cuts off the fuel. So we'd need a fuel cut defender or any other piggy back, which tells to the ECU that everything is OK. The S-AFC doesn't help there. Any ideas somebody??
  22. Sorry I confused.... it's designed for LHD cars. Australians and UK will have to do some custom work. :o
  23. Hmm... my friend and me installed it, but it's not that easy as it looks like on the pics. It took about 6 hours for the oil works alone. The intercooler working about 1 day. Nothing really fits as it should, you have to cut, bend or screw something evrywhere and at every part. Oh and for RHD models it's even harder because of the power steering and such. Well, I wouldn't do that by myself if I weren't a bit experienced in such things. Every hour you get another surprise which thing f*cks with you or what doesn't really fit without some custom work. All in all it took about 5-6 days for us, because we don't have a professional workshop like TDI or such.
  24. An option would be to rip out the fuel pump + fuel regulator, put a new better stand-alone fuel pump into the tank, get out with the normal fuel line into an aftermarket bigger fuel pressure regulator, into the fuelline, and a new return line from the new fuel regulator back to the tank. That's what I would do for an fuel system upgrade. :winky:
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