RoadRash

Thanks mate :winky: Oh I forgot something: For fuelling..... get an adjustable fuel cut defender. The best fuel system won't help you if the ECU blocks or cuts off the fuel over 0.3bar. Ordinary the stock fuel system should be good enough for ~250HP. I'm running the S-AFC at +30% at 5000rpm high throttle opening and the O2 gauge shows a Lambda of 12.5:1 or something.... rich enough. The only surrent problem is, that my shi**y map unit cuts the fuel at 0.5bar. My wastegate iron is bent a bit and it opens the WG a bit too late so I get overboost for a short moment (~0.7-0.8bar) and the MU cuts the fuel over 0.5. When it gets back it's rich enough again. That says to me that the stock fuel system should be good enough for the first time. Of course once a time if you want to raise boost, you will have to upgrade it. ;) Oh an.... the most sold Turbos are in the 300HP area. Small lag and straight torque line. A high-end-power Turbo won't make you happy, when the turbo kicks in only over 4500rpm.... that doesn't make fun. Also mine is big enough. Now it's cold, the grip is bad.... I could do burnouts all the time while driving in 2nd gear. Like Indiana Jones said: "Choose wisely!" :winky:

(Answers between your questions. ;) )

How much BHP does an N/A Supra put out???

@ mandymitchell Get a Single Turbo! :D :winky:

@ keith456969 Could you give us better questions what you want to know? Turbo Tuning is a huge topic, nobody could tell you everything here in one post. You need to have specific question man. ;)

????? :duh: Watch a few posts below there you can find it.... you also opened it. ;) Try this: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...showtopic=18057 ;)

We already have that topic and we added replies to that. ;)

Take care that the turbo isn't too big and everything will work if it fits. You should get somebody who adjusts the software on a dyno run or try to get elevtronic piggy back systems to adjust it yourself. I'd prefer both.... I'd adjust it with piggy backs on a dyno. Then you know better what is to do. :winky: Get an external wastegate and a boostcontroller, it works much better than a BC on internal WG. Hope you can get an injector controller for the additional injector. I wouldn't get over 0.7bar on stock internals, well it won't play a roll at quick launchs, but you shouldn't go on a racetrack with it. Additional fuel line?? For what?? Get bigger injectors or pump/fuel pressure regulator, that shoudl solve the problem without the injector. For 0.6-0.7bar it should put out ~260HP @ crank I guess. But get warned of the huge torque the turbo produces. I can't launch with full throttle as before on wet streets without doing donuts out of a turn. Greets, RR

Maybe the engine sucks so much air at 5th and 6th gear and 100% throttle opening and over 5000rpm, that the SC can't support that much air. 6 Cylinders suck much air, maybe more than the SC can give at high rpm. ;) That could be a reason for boost loss.

The original one prevents the fuel cut under boost conditions, the later one also reduces the rev limiter. ← But only up to 0.3bar or such eh? Or what would happen if you put a smaller SC-pulley on it and the boost would increase?? Would it also make a fuel-cut again??

What does the TTE sub ECU do?? What's its function??

And it works?? I got about 80kms more out of the tank after fitting the S-AFC. When it was N/A I set it leaner and it pulled better and saved some of fuel. :winky:

What is 3D and what is 2D mapping?? Yes for reaching 270-280HP I also wouldn't go with a T04. Try getting a GT28 or something. Far enough. You can also boost it up to over 1bar and this is also more than enough and you don't get that much lag. A T04 (for 600HP or such) needs some time to spool up.

Haha... funny to confuse people.... :duh: Joke. :winky: In my opinion MAP means the function (to measure manifold air pressure) of the sensor and HW is a kind of description or something. Because for the S-AFC you cannot set MAP or such, only those 4 you had above. HW means a type or kind of sensor I guess.... Or get on the Apexi site and download the wiring diagram. There you can see that all Toyota models have "HW" next to the ECU drawings. But it's OK, if any piggy back asks you then --> HW sensor and if we ask you then --> MAP But ordinary both are the same..... :duh:

I think I've said three times now the IS200 has a MAP type so you need to go with option 1 ;) ← With such kind of answer you only confuse him more. When he asks for HW, why do you answer with "MAP type"?? Also if it's the same, but maybe he doesn't know, so simply say "Yes it's HotWire!" and everything is clear. ;) :duh: :duh: ← so its HW ← No it's MAP. :duh: :yack: :mat:

I think I've said three times now the IS200 has a MAP type so you need to go with option 1 ;) ← With such kind of answer you only confuse him more. When he asks for HW, why do you answer with "MAP type"?? Also if it's the same, but maybe he doesn't know, so simply say "Yes it's HotWire!" and everything is clear. ;) :duh: :duh:

no im not pulling your leg, i just want to know what sensor the lexus is useing ;) so is it "Hot Wire" sensor the lexus has? ← Yes we already told you..... :winky:

HW is HotWire yes.... Toyota only uses those sensor types as far as I know. :winky: I had to set this sensor type on my S-AFC. In the manual also you can see --> Toyota -> HotWire :) German vehicles r usin' Karman, the Nissan Skyline is a special one as I can see.

I also want a 600HP engine in my IS200..... why? ---> To save on fuel !!!! :P :D

Don't know about the stock springs, but aftermarket coilovers or such are completely same for the IS200 as for the IS300. ;)

All Toyota Models are usin' HW sensor type. ;)

I can only say: Try to get an IS300 specific one. It costs a bit more, but fits pretty good. I also got a universal and had to cut and cut and cut..... now it looks ugly and doesn't fit really good. Further it's not deep enough for the outside gauges..... Once I saw 2 different gauge pods made for the IS300. When I find them I will let u know. :winky:

The black box will be too small for him to get into it....

When you look in the engine bay... ---> frontside on the right, that big black box. open it and you can see hundreds of wires, like a spaghetti menu....

I'd say with a stage 2 kit to try get bigger injectors and the S-AFC will manage the fuel support. You would have to set the fuel a bit less than before, because the injector will open for the same time, but gives although more fuel in cause of its size. So you can set the A/F correction to the correct value with an S-AFC or anything. I get an overboost at 4000rpm, the boost raises until 0.8bar, now I don't know if the fuel system is maxxed out or it's an electronic problem, because it seems like a fuel cut over 0.5 bar, caused by that mapunit which was included. The S-AFC DOESN'T prevent fuel cuts!!! It only can lower or raise the Airflow signal to raise or lower fuel.