munday

Amayama.com Put in the part numbers and get the prices. The parts are genuine Lexus and shipped from either Japan or the UAE.

I agree with the above, fix the manifold leaks and go from there. No point trying to diagnose the problem when you know the manifolds are leaking

When you say 'feedback' do you mean that you have a hum loop, or slight low frequency buzz. Reason I ask is because with my home stereo where I plug in the iPod via a long phono based lead (with jointed earth) which will be the same as what you have done for the Lexus, I have found that hum/feedback is an issue. Having thought about it, and played around it seems to be due to the differential impedance between the Left Earth and the RIght Earth points somewhere in the whole sheebang. So moving earth points outside of the radio may not make any difference. I would be interested to know if the professional fitters have a balancer behind the jack socket to then impedance match correctly to the head end of the LS stereo, which should eliminate this problem. Impedance matching is key to this type of problem and the iPod will be a low ohm value and the LS internals probably a lot higher. Just a thought, but would be interested if you do cure by re-routing earths. Maybe you can help with my setup, I have tapped into the cd changer signal wire IN to the amp. So I use the line-out from my iPhone to go pre amp (using some relays and a switch sop that i can swap between iPhone and CD changer. The cable I am using plugs into the docking connector on the phone, which has 3 RCA connectors (red/white/yellow) of which I am only using the R and L audio lines, and also it has a USB connector spurred off for charging. Now...when the phone is not charging there is absolutely no interference at all, its clear as could be. When I plug the charger in I get the interference which changes with engine revs and is just generally there all the time. Do you have any ideas on how to minimise this effect? The lead being used is quite long (1.5m) and for charging I am plugging into a cigarette lighter adapter. From my previous days working in car audio its like a bad earth, or running the signal wires with power wires. Is hard wiring the charger directly to a 12v and earth likely to help? Will straightening out the connector lead help? Its sometimes worse than others, seems to me that the lower the battery on the phone the worse it is (drawing more current?) Thanks :)

Yeah there isn't a right and wrong way, its just for people to decide what works best for them :) With the quality issue, I'm talking about comparing the output of the 3.5mm headphone jack to the line-out which is through the normal iPhone connector (like a docking station would have) The line-out is pre internal amp and the highest quality output available. HOWEVER, is the difference noticeable? I'd say not to the average listener. Also, this may be an iPhone specific issue so may not be relevant to a lot of people. My CD changer is always stocked with cds and just carries on in the background until I decide to listen to them again :)

£10 cheaper, its not neater, its a more involved job with a lot more to go wrong and the sound quality is LOWER than the cd changer method. Also, you have no opportunity to add in power to charge your device at the same time (which is what I have done) You pay your money and take your choice :)

Does your method still allow the Traffic reports to interrupt. Not if you are currently listening to the ipod, I have mine switched off anyway (when going somewhere I dont know, google maps is always used which has live traffic info). If you are listening to a CD/radio/tape as you usually would then all the stock functionality is maintained. The method of stripping down the headunit is a lot more involved! You also still only have the headphone out, which is LOWER QUALITY (why taint the excellent sound system with poor quality audio?!) and you also don't have the opportunity to add in a power source to charge your phone/music player. Whatever floats your boat, I know that my install is one of the best and most complete ;)

You're much better doing this: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/lexus-audio-video-security-and-electronics/269156-how-to-build-and-hardwire-an-auxillary-input-to-oem-stereo.html I have done the above and used a iPhone cable that also has the charging wires built in. A switch allows me to choose CD changer or iPhone output. You could use any plug instead of an iPhone one so its not apple specific :) The advantages are that its neat, easy, gives the best sound quality you could possible expect (the normal headphone jack output is not as high quality as the line out signal that comes from the iPhone plug) and is cheap :) EDIT: Also means that I can use the google maps Sat Nav, watch youtube videos, etc etc on either my phone or iPad and still have them charging.

I will echo whats already been said really, the semi-synthetic oils will do the job. They will need changing more regularly as they break down quicker and are less resistant to temerature and shear loading. I use Fully synth 5w-30 in mine because I can often get nice cheap deals.

Thanks Ian. I wasn't sure what the oil went but that makes sense. I had the idea that low oil would cause a noise but obviously not. I guess that means a new or used compressor then. The correct weight of oil is mixed with the refrigerant before being put back into the AC system on the car. Some things that may have happened: Wrong viscosity oil used Wrong weight of oil (amount in grams) Wrong weight (volume?) of refrigerant Go back to Halfords and request a walkthrough of the procedure they used

That's awesome. Hope you find what you need bud, sorry we couldn't be of more help

PM replied to bud, I don't have anything but hopefully have provided some links that will sort you out :)

Bear in mind that the stock sub is a 'free air' or 'infinite baffle' sub. Designed to work without needing a box. They are quite rare to find. Also I cant remember if the OEM amp is 2 ohm or 4. Check the american site ClubLexus as they have all the info and potential replacements there (in the FAQ thread i think)

The compressors used on our LS400s are widely regarded as one of the most reliable and durable units available. Have you had your air con serviced recently? A proper service should include a full evacuation of the system, checking it can hold a vacuum and then refilling with the correct weight of gas and oil of the correct viscosity. If its noisy now then it may be past the point it can be saved, it would cost you £50 for a service to potentially find that it hasn't helped. If you decide to replace I would be confident in buying a second hand one, as long as i knew it hadn't been sitting around for months off the car, or sitting on a car with the AC not working.

Lower ET = lower offset = brings the face of the wheel out more

Those wheels you have linked to would work. One thing you have to be careful of is fouling the front calipers, but the earlier models like yours have smaller calipers so you will likely be fine. What kind of look are you going for? If you want the wheels to sit flush you'd be best going for a lower offset or getting some spacers.

Ah I see, I mentioned it as it seems to have a fairly good troubleshooting part at the beginning, with pinouts and diagnosis procedures

Wish I'd have seen this last night, send me your email address and I can send you a 256 page PDF 'Body Electrical' part of the workshop manual, I think it contains everything you need

Worth cleaning the throttle body too, there is a guide on clublexus in the ls400 FAQ section :)

Check out http://www.amayama.com/ with the relevant part numbers. You'll probably find this is the cheapest source of genuine parts

Apologies for the wrong measurement! I should have checked my order from last time. Apologies again, hope it doesn't cost you extra money or hassle :(

http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=68 ETS59 near the bottom of the page. You will need (EDIT) 5 meters. The OEM Lexus rubber has no join, with the new seal I made the join by the boot latch, its the lowest point and in the middle. I cut it carefully and you can't even notice the join line unless you knew it was there. HTH

Thanks guys I'll drop him a PM, if no response I'll speak to ClimAir, will update

If it was leaking before its usually best to replace the seal. What happens is that the rubber does not 'spring' back and make firm contact with the boot lid when its closed. In this case a company called Seals Direct have the perfect solution, cost me around £30 delivered (I can find the exact type I used if you want a link). I don't believe any sealant is used as standard, and using sealant will only work if the crimped fitting that slides over the panel has become loose.

This link will help you: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/65150-mk4-remote-keys/page-2# There are two procedures I think, one for controlling the remote locking functions and one to sync it with the immobiliser.

Update, please?