sjrainsford

That looks stunning mate!

Yeah, mine makes quite a few little sounds with ignition on, then after I turn it off.

Hi all. As this has been a little quiet of late, and being an electrical engineer I like to tinker. I've started looking into fooling the water temperature sensor reading as well. Currently I'm using fixed resistance to take measurements and run tests as I have stacks of them knocking around the garage. I will however probably move to variable resistance, but in my case by adding a second temperature sensor. For those interested, I'm currently running about 3500ohm in parallel with the sensor. This is quite easy to do inside the engine management housing in the engine bay. It's just a case of stripping two wires. With this the car shows that it is warming up within about a minute of driving. Much quicker than standard. Going too far makes it difficult to start though, so I've found that this resistance is about right in the current weather. The car is obviously much less rich on start up just by standing behind it ticking over. I've not yet had any figures to speak of as the last tank full was used during experimenting. I'm currently on my first tank full with it untouched. I'd say this would have a bigger impact on people doing shorter journeys rather than people who only do long runs.

The spacers are just a bush that pulls the o2 sensor out of the main exhaust stream. Sometimes you need more than one to stop it setting EMLs.

As above. If you've installed free flow cats then it's most likely picking up that they aren't performing correctly. You'll need a post cat O2 sensor spacer.

I forgot to mention, hen I first filled mine I decided to disconnect one of my heater matrix pipes under the bonnet anyway as I wanted to flush it out. I then left it disconnected to get some air out whilst filling.

10k a year, and it's got 136k on the clock now.

When I did mine I had to park the car on an incline so the front of the car was raised considerably. I then ran the engine up with the radiator cap removed and squeezed the pipes to get everything moving, especially paying attention to those entering the cabin near the exhaust manifold. I presume you've got the aircon switched off? As that can make a similar sound. Not wanting to teach you to suck eggs or anything.

Lets hope it's just from the sump. Don't forget you should check your gearbox oil level with the car at normal operating temperature and whilst the engine is running. The level looks high when the engine isn't running so will make you think there is more in there than there actually is.

If I were you I'd go back to proper filament lamps and go from there.

Have a twist off your rheostat too in case its got dust in it. LEDs are much more responsive to sudden voltage changes than filament bulbs.

I get wind noise from the passenger side somewhere, but after 10k miles I'm still yet to locate it's source.

There shouldn't be too much trouble with those. That hybrid drive train is already proven I believe.

I'd personally recommend fitting standard filament bulbs to see how it is.

But yes I agree, they defo suit the look of the IS. Was that for a set of four? If so that's a damn good price I'd say!

There's a number of sensors that could be reporting incorrectly, but not enough to flag up the error, only cause another error to show due to poor running. Can you tell the car is misfiring, or does it drive fine and just report that it has a misfire?

Replaced with filament bulbs or LEDs?

Very nice! How did you get it to stand on it's side like that?

That makes sense, I quite like the look of them on some cars. I had them on my RAV 4. I'd had the Toyota ones which stick on to the door, some push into the window channel and are rather naff.

Not sure I see the point when you've got climate control.

Yeah, that's normally the case.

I'm not entirely sure if the fans come in straight away with the aircon, I can't remember without looking. But, does your aircon compressor clutch engage when you turn the aircon on with the engine running?

The radiator fans operate at two speeds. Low speed is when both are connected in series. This only happens when the Aircon is switched on. This would at least tell you that the fans are working. They come onto fast speed when the pressure switch operates in the air con system. However, you can just short the two wires together that connect to the water temperature sensor, this will bring the fans on into full speed. This is located at the bottom drivers side of the radiator and operates at around 95 degrees C approx. The fans are operated by three relays. If I remember correctly, the water temperature switch operates no1 and 3 relays via a diode pack.

Firstly, unlike some systems the cruise control first needs to be activated by pressing the button in at the end of the stalk. You should see 'cruise' lit up on your dash then. To set the speed, you then need to push the stalk down once at the desired speed. Often the mistake with Toyota cruise control is that once the light is on the dash, people think that's the system set.

The radiators don't seem to be the best on these. If you are losing coolant and finding it difficult to see where from, then it is most likely the radiator.