sjrainsford

Some may depending on the LED. However, they often don't dim at the same rate as the filament bulbs on the dash.

As far as I'm aware, the dimming of the dash light bulbs is handled by the rheostat. That's the adjustable knob down by the steering column. However, if you've got LED dash bulbs that may explain why they don't dim. They don't react the same to a rheostat as a filament bulb does.

I'd suggest you do a search, this has come up many times before.

Personally I wouldn't recommend any of the cheap brand stereos. You might loose a bit of functionality, but I'd go with a Pioneer, Alpine, Sony etc etc any day. The amp will be of much higher quality than those cheap units. They suffer background hiss and things like that normally. But yes, it's common to connect the aerial feed to the remote out/ electric antenna out feed on the stereo so it powers the aerial when the stereo is turned on.

Give me a shout if you need to know anything. You had a witter one? You need to remove the exhaust and heat shield. Then it uses mainly existing mounting points. You then have to drill two holes through a double skin part of the boot to fit a sleeved bolt through. It's more a little awkward than difficult.

I can only really see the pro points personally. So long as it's a decent mulitipoint injection setup with a tank that sits in the spare tyre well. Just need to make sure they're running with flash lube, as jap engines need this generally speaking to ensure longevity of the valves.

Me too, and any colour really!

As it's easy enough to do, i'd be tempted to swap your O2 sensors around to see if the fault moves to the other bank. Just a thought, as they can cause all sorts of problems if not behaving correctly. Plus they aren't relied on during the warm up cycle which may explain your symptoms. Don't forget to inspect the wiring too.

Double post

It's just a light on the dashboard. The problem is, the brake light bulb failure warning light is the same light on the dash for brake fluid low etc, so you'll want to disconnect that one. The rear tail lights have a warning light of their own so that's not such a problem. The lamp failure warning sensor box is located behind the panel in the boot that you will need to remove anyway to gain access to the wiring for your tow bar anyway.

The air lock can be right where the temperature sender is in some instances, this will cause it to read low. But yes Chris, it may pay to park the car on an incline like I said and give the pipes a good squeeze to try and shift the air through. You're better off doing it with the radiator as the highest point, so the incline is necessary on these. I suppose there's always a chance that your thermostat just got stuck or something too.

Yeah, I fitted a cheap narrow core rad to mine and it's been great. To upload pictures, you're better off hosting them on a site like photobucket for example. Then you can just use IMG tags to link to the pictures in your post. If you have a smart phone you can upload them with the app too then to make it easy.

If you weren't so far away I'd gladly help. But for the standard lighting electrics, no you don't need a bypass relay. With the current fusing there's enough head room for the extra lights of a trailer (or caravan in our case). You may however, run into little issues with the bulb failure warning system. These won't be solved whether you fit a bypass relay or not as it just doesn't like the extra wiring as they're very sensitive. It's as easy as cutting a couple of wires though to disable the bulb warning system. Any other help just let me know, I fitted my tow bar about 6 months ago. it's not a big job by tow bar fitting standards.

Just as a quick and cheaper option, and hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs. But it may be worth parking the car with the front up a good incline and checking there's no air in the system, as an air lock can give this symptom.

My life time average is 29mpg. Last fill was just over 31mpg however, sign of the warmer weather hopefully. The service may have helped too!

They call their system AVC-LAN. There's quite a bit around on the net if you search it, for the earlier and later style plugs.

This one may be difficult for people on here to comment, as although we have the same engine we don't have the same throttle control system, as ours are motor operated (cable back up) throttle bodies therefore don't have an idle control valve. The throttle body itself acts as the ICV. Surely there are forums for the particular car you run that may be of more help?

The green line is 0.1. That gauge isn't really accurate enough, so you want to be trying to get the centre of the bubble on 0.1.. Just above zero then. The red line is at about 0.75.

Sorry to see the damage to your car mate. Yes, let the insurers access it first and they will tell you if it's a write off or not. Many insurers now operate a policy where they can use second hand parts to repair a car, this brings costs down and also means less write offs.

What actual fault codes are you getting?

If that is zero point one of a degree that you're after then that would be correct. Sometimes degrees can be expressed as having decimal places, or with a comma which would denote degrees and minutes. Obviously there's 60 minutes in a degree.

According to my Parkers iPhone app, it would have been £23,620 when new if a 2000 X plate.

Is that the right type of bulb? Its not the same as mine would have been. The metal body on those acts as an earth, and my fogs have positive and earth connections I'm sure.

Does nobody else think water ingress here? Has the windscreen been changed?

Yeah, my SE has it. But so far it's been a mixed blessing, as if you let it heat then wipe the screen. Sometimes the water it wipes up the screen then freezes. Very useful for unsticking the wipers though, as it only really heats that part of the screen. And yes, mine is off the rear screen button too. My rear screen doesn't have mirrors pictured on it though.