AmbroseJohn

I changed from an old E39 BMW 525i and my biggest disappointment is the noise. Everyone comments how quiet they are, I can only assume these people have never owned a BMW. The engine clatters like an old diesel but it's been serviced by Lexus Bolton three times and they say everything is normal. Also, I've had new discs, pads, wheels and tyres but the rolling noise is still awful. I really like the car but I don't think I'd buy another.

The set speed is what the speedometer reads. :)

So how can the car determined whether the key is out of range or the battery is flat?

Just a red triangle and a message saying "Key not detected" I see this regularly when my son takes the keys away, to open the gates and garage doors. The car runs fine until I stop the engine. It won't then restart until the key is back in the car. It is also interesting to note that the doors will not lock, from the door handles, with the keys in the car.

The RAC couldn't get my old Chevy started, it wouldn't unlock with the fob and the immobiliser would come off, so they towed it. They kept it overnight with the intention of taking it to the dealers the following day. Next day they tried to start it and it was fine. It happened again in a different place, so we pushed it twenty yards across the car park, it started and it never happened again. There was a mobile phone mast nearby on both occasions, so maybe it has something to do with that.

I complained that my engine was noisy at my last service. The mechanic suggested it was tools rattling in the boot. When I said do you think I'm stupid and pointed out what sounds like cam follower/tappet, they said it was normal. I also have a knocking noise, which sounds like a buckled brake disc but none of the mechanics can hear it, despite friends and family hearing it. (I got new discs, pads, wheels and tyres BTW at my own expense) So it would appear "That's perfectly normal Sir" is a ploy used by Lexus. Maybe they hope the warranty runs out before something goes bang. I love the car but another BMW is looking like a better option for my next purchase.

The GS300h may compare favourably with a IS220d but it's no comparison with the GS450h

Looks like I really did get lucky, especially as, by the time I realised what was happening with the pedal, the reservoir was completely empty. Maybe the amount of air entering the system from the reservoir end, was not sufficient to empty the valves you mention.

When I changed my rear calipers I bled my brakes without the aid of Tech Steam. Once I'd sussed that the pedal wasn't going to react in the normal way, I just used a tube with non return valve on the brake nipple and touched the pedal so the pump runs. I Kept filling the reservoir because fluid flows at a fast rate. The car has been serviced and MOTd by Lexus twice since, with no problem. I know this is not the recommended way and maybe I got lucky but I never even considered there could be a problem, in those early days of ownership. :)

I changed my disks and pads a while ago. When I removed the rear disks, I thought the hand brake shoes were looking a little thin, so I ordered new. When they arrived, the new ones looked the same. Both rear calipers were seized, which is a common fault. Care should be taken when bleeding because the pedal doesn't go down to the floor, it's electronic. By the time you've realised whats happening, all the fluid is in the jar. :) But if you don't encounter those problems, the task is no different to any other car.

I have a knocking noise too. The car has been serviced by Lexus twice since I've owned it and they can find no fault, in fact they don't even recognise there's a problem. The car has also been MOTd twice at my local garage with no problems. I thought it may be a warped disc, so I changed the discs and pads all round. I've changed the wheels and tyres too but the knock persists. I also got weeping shock absorbers and the engine rattles like an old diesel. My old 5 series BMW went on for 14 years and 150k miles, without any real problems, so whilst I love the Lexus, I feel my next car will be another BMW.

I'd change both, if one is gone the other won't be far behind. Counting turns is good for initial set up but I'd have the tracking checked because it's a lot cheaper than a pair of tyres.

A coil over system could be a better option, which solves the recurring situation. Cost per corner is less than stock set up but you can't just change one corner, so initial cost is more.

I've got a weeping rear shock too, so I'm also interested in answers. Lexus want £400 to do the job but I like to change shocks in pairs, so the price gets silly. The last ones I bought (years ago) were twenty quid a piece. Not really amused and seriously thinking of returning to BMW.

I was going to change for the same reason. I found a new set of 17 inch on ebay but the dealer said they wouldn't fit because of clearance issues. Try taping a length of 1/2 wood across the rim and spin it.

Brake caliper clearance may be an issue.

I didn't believe it either but as the owner of what's affectionately called in the trade "a wonkey donkey" I do now. I bought a spare key fob and blank key on ebay. then I must have phoned every auto lock smith in the country and still I only have one key, over two years later. If anyone can sort this besides the dealers, he's doing a very poor job advertising his business.

The dealer who sold me the car said it came with one key but I contacted the previous owner who said he traded it to a Merc dealer. I contacted them but never received a reply. So my spare key has probably been binned.

You can't program used keys and I think the price of a new key includes programming, so the dealer is the only option unfortunately.

If you lose the only key, it costs thousands to sort it. Insist on a spare key or make your offer reflect that you're going to have to spend up to £500 to replace it. I didn't know my 2008 had one key until the deal was done and dusted because I never thought to ask. Living with one key is a nightmare.

My 08 SEL has one. I thought they all did TBH

I used to have a bumper sticker on my '69 Chevelle which read "I'd rather eat worms than drive an automatic" Then I was forced to buy one ('76 Vette) because I couldn't find the right car, with 4 speed. I had intended to convert it but having drove it for a while, I kept the auto and I've never had a stick shift since.

Sensors don't fit in the new wheels and to be honest I've spent 50 years driving trouble free, without the need for a computer to tell me I've got a flat. Checking tyre pressures is part of routine maintenance and if you don't know you're driving on a flat tyre, you never should be driving anyhow.

If the light is on, with the car running normally or off during during initialisation, you'll fail the MOT. The sensors just have to be working, they won't check if they're in the tyres, just the same as they won't check any other system, as long as the warning lights indicate that it's working normally.

You need to pressurise the box, you could fit a separate valve but it's just as easy to use one of the sensors.