Herbie

I've never owned a 220D but you may find something to help here.

Who won't do anything about it. So many different designs of mobile phone out there that any car manufacturer can't be expected to cater for all of them.

Nothing to worry about there. That's an information screen that can display various info when switched. If you didn't do it purposley then you've just switched it to that parameter by mistake. If you were actually driving along with this display active, you'd see arrows showing when the traction battery is powering the wheels or when the car is charging the battery (the battery symbol shows the state of charge of the traction battery).

Yuasa is a well respected brand and I've never had any problems with them at all. I would be inclined to go with the highest Ah and CCA ratings possible, making sure that the battery physically and securely fits where it should and has the terminals in the correct orientation.

Well, looking at those photos they certainly look the same, and given that I've never tried to do it myself, you could well be right. Hope it all goes alright if you try it

There's two functions of the key fob. One is the central locking and the other is the immobiliser, so when you say that the car doesn't register the fob, what exactly do you mean? I know from memory that P0AFA is Hybrid System Voltage Low, so check that you've connected the voltage sensor back up correctly. Also check that the Service Plug Grip is replaced correctly. You say you managed to scan it "with proper software" - was that Techstream? As far as I know, Techstream is the only one that gives the sub-codes as well as the main codes and this is very important. If you look at the screendump below, you'll see that P3004 covers six different problems and only the sub-codes differentiate them for you.

You don't say which photo is yours but I'm assuming the top one, being as that is actually in situ. If you think the bottom photo is just a "facelift" then I'm sorry to say it's not. It's a Mark Levinson, which is an entirely different system with more speakers, different connectors and so on. I'd therefore say no, you probably can't do it.

Neither Lexus nor Toyota make their own batteries, they just buy in and slap their name on them so there's no actual thing as a "genuine" Toy/Lex battery. As long as it physically and securely fits where it's meant to and the terminals have the correct orientation, any battery will do the job because 12VDC is 12VDC no matter what. Yuasa are a well-respected brand but I've not taken much notice of the market for years so I'm not sure about others these days.

My service and, more importantly, the MOT are due on 10th March but first courtesy car available would be in April.

If you buy a camera with a dedicated hardwire kit (or there are even generic hardwire kits out there that will work with any camera) then there's usually a voltage sensor/selector included. My Viofo A129 Duo uses the HK3 (Hardwire Kit 3) and allows me to set a voltage limit beyond which it will not drop. From memory I think 11.8V, 12.0V, 12.2V and 12.4V are selectable and if I select 12.2V for example, once the battery gets to that value the camera supply is switched off, so as to not leave you with a flat battery.

I've got a Grom Vline2 in my RX but some people have gone with Lexion or Lsailt

As others have said, that's an absolute rip-off. It's a very easy DIY job and cheap too. However, do you even need it at all? If you're getting a musty sort of smell in the cabin then yes, it could do with a freshen up, but if the cabin smells as it always has and is 'normal' then there's no need for antibacterial treatments at all.

Could be an airlock or low coolant level.

You need to sit in the boot, facing outwards, with your legs outside. Pull the tailgate down so that you can work on it comfortably and you'll see that this part clips onto the gate itself at the bottom of the window. It's a bit fiddly but it clips in with the curved edge following the curve of the tailgate and the straight edge facing into the car, so that when the gate is down, this part covers the gap between the gate and the luggage cover.

Good information, cheers Stuart

Just to clarify - what Colin says is correct but just thought I'd point out (given the topic title) that you can't jump start the traction battery anyway. That's a 'breakdown service and get it to the dealers' job because the AA, RAC et al, can't do that either.

Glad you got the gear selector issue fixed. Fingers crossed, going downhill with a tailwind behind you, the topic below from the American forum may just help you with the water ingress (particularly from Post No.16 onwards): https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-2nd-gen-2004-2009/648923-sunroof-moonroof-leak.html

Forget doing that. First things first - get the OBD codes read and then tell us what they are. These codes point you in the direction of a fault but even then, it's only a starting point for more diagnostics. If we don't know what codes are flagged, all we can do is guess what's wrong and that's no good to anyone.

PM just sent to you mate.

More trouble than they're worth. Condensation, scratches and more besides - far better with just a good wax or ceramic coating.

Just so you don't think you're being ignored, I'll say that I don't know

Maybe getting a hybrid wasn't the best choice then because they're very electrically/electronically complicated. First of all, do what Andrew suggests and look for any OBD codes. Hybrids don't have a starter motor (or alternator) so the startup sequence is very different to a conventional car. The 12V battery boots the computers, pressurises the brakes and gets the hybrid system up and running (as shown by the READY light). Everything else is driven by the high voltage traction battery (288V for the RX but varies by car model). So, you get in, press your foot on the brakes and then press the power button. If everything is working as it should, a few seconds later you'll hear a beep and you'll see the READY light. At that point you can drive away on traction battery alone, but the petrol engine will soon kick in, probably in less than a hundred metres. When the hybrid system wants to run the petrol engine it will energise MG1 (motor/generator 1) and use that to spin the engine up to 1,000rpm, at which point it will open the injectors to supply the fuel and also apply a spark to fire it.

PM just sent to you Phil.

Doesn't matter my friend. If it was on but then reset itself, any codes will still be stored as 'Historic'.

It's the same software diagnostics program that Lexus techs use in the dealer workshops, so it can do anything that they would need to do. As hobby or DIY mechanics we'll probably not need most of what it does but it's nice to have, just in case. If you look at Post No. 14 in this thread, I still reckon the best thing about it is that it gives sub-codes when/where needed as well as main codes.